Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

[jfoonly]



For me as a skinny guy I couldn't deal with a rise any lower than the rivets. I've already switched mostly over to Walts for the sole reason that the higher rise helps my shirts stay tucked in better. Even with the rivets rise my shirts (of any fit, even very slim) tend to blouse/pull out a lot. I prefer the generally more casual details of the rivets (button fly, larger belt loops, no crease) to that of the Walt so I would love to see casual pants with a higher rise. I'm probably the only one, though!

I'm with you

+1000 on that!

 

[tricky]

Yup I'm in agreement too.

 

[xinu98]



Would love to see a shallower scoop on the hem, since I image this will be worn mostly untucked. Love it otherwise.

For me as a skinny guy I couldn't deal with a rise any lower than the rivets. I've already switched mostly over to Walts for the sole reason that the higher rise helps my shirts stay tucked in better. Even with the rivets rise my shirts (of any fit, even very slim) tend to blouse/pull out a lot. I prefer the generally more casual details of the rivets (button fly, larger belt loops, no crease) to that of the Walt so I would love to see casual pants with a higher rise. I'm probably the only one, though!

+1

A slightly higher rise on the rivets would be great

 

[stlms3]

Although I am totally content w rivets as is, I would too prefer a slightly higher rise.

Anyway Mike, the incotex fabric (can't remember term) pants sound awesome! I feel that besides like two other core colors and a random odd ball, I am riveted out (though walts which I usually wear to work, I could go on and on). But the washed out colors of incotex are gorgeous and I would be in for many pairs of those if they were not much (or any) slimmer than rivets... I feel that much slimmer than rivets veers on skinny (which I'm not a fan of).

 

[oboy_oboy]

Thanks for excellent, detailed reply. It's such a pleasure to get so much insight into the process and timing of everything.

Any hoodies in fleece in the pipeline?

Absolutely, I'm working on a few concepts now. We can really make any kind of hoodie here. Any specific features that you guys would like to see in the first one?

I just wanted to chime in on this and say that I really like the pocket shape (which some W+H hoodies have had in the past, too, IIRC) on this Momotaro hoodie, as well as the way that, when zipped all the way up, there's a bit of a collar/neck that stands up. It's harder to see here, but when seen on-model it's clear, and it's really cool. It's not too pronounced or ninja-style, just a cool way to offer more profile and something a little different that sets it apart.

Image from Blue Owl site.

EDIT: Your reply re: garment dyed chinos changed my view a little. They sound great, even if I'm not in need of lots of lighter weight pants. I would say that I'm 100% in favor a little more taper below the knee, but would hate to see that come at the expense of the current thigh dimensions. Rivets hit a real sweet spot of slim but not skinny and I love that. That said, a slightly smaller leg opening would be killer.

 

[Louys]

+1 for a higher rise. Something between a rivet and a walt would great.

 

[wsumarine]



Would love to see a shallower scoop on the hem, since I image this will be worn mostly untucked. Love it otherwise.

For me as a skinny guy I couldn't deal with a rise any lower than the rivets. I've already switched mostly over to Walts for the sole reason that the higher rise helps my shirts stay tucked in better. Even with the rivets rise my shirts (of any fit, even very slim) tend to blouse/pull out a lot. I prefer the generally more casual details of the rivets (button fly, larger belt loops, no crease) to that of the Walt so I would love to see casual pants with a higher rise. I'm probably the only one, though!

not the only one!

 

[Beatlegeuse]

Thanks for all the positive comments on my Harris tweed jacket guys! Can you believe I actually toyed with the idea of selling this because I didn't think it would get cold enough here for me to get enough wear out of it. After wearing it yesterday, I can say that even if that's the only day all year I got to wear it, then it's still worth keeping it forever.

 

[FrankCowperwood]

If you have five of them, sell your least favorites. If that's your only one, never sell it.

 

[stevent]



Thanks for excellent, detailed reply. It's such a pleasure to get so much insight into the process and timing of everything.
I just wanted to chime in on this and say that I really like the pocket shape (which some W+H hoodies have had in the past, too, IIRC) on this Momotaro hoodie, as well as the way that, when zipped all the way up, there's a bit of a collar/neck that stands up. It's harder to see here, but when seen on-model it's clear, and it's really cool. It's not too pronounced or ninja-style, just a cool way to offer more profile and something a little different that sets it apart.

Image from Blue Owl site.

EDIT: Your reply re: garment dyed chinos changed my view a little. They sound great, even if I'm not in need of lots of lighter weight pants. I would say that I'm 100% in favor a little more taper below the knee, but would hate to see that come at the expense of the current thigh dimensions. Rivets hit a real sweet spot of slim but not skinny and I love that. That said, a slightly smaller leg opening would be killer.

The momtaro one is quite nice and I would be interested in both that style which is more unique and also a sleeker hoodie. When walking my dog or running quick errands it's a lot easier to have stuff in pockets in a sweater vs pants I feel. I pretty much only have SNS which has no pockets. So something that would have side **** pockets would be pretty cool, where the hoodie is still clean in front but with the function if this makes any sense. Cut wise it'd be a little looser the the in house shirt fit to accomodate the pockets without showing? Also I know you mentioned the merino wool tees and stuff so maybe a fleece version like the momotaro and a sleeker merino wool one.

 

[Beatlegeuse]



If you have five of them, sell your least favorites. If that's your only one, never sell it.

That was the exact reasoning I used in my head. I have other jackets but this is my only truly heavyweight piece. I can basically use it as outerwear for my mild winter climate.

 

[Epaulet]

Waiting on a sport coat from the LA store. How's this for some UPS love?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

WTF!! If they don't have any progress on that by Monday, then please let me know. Most of the time they bounce back from that in a day or two. Your box is insured, so we can take care of it if anything is lost or damaged.

denim shirt with snap buttons would be better...........

We've got that coming too! The other denim shirt is going to be a minimal western style with smoke glass snap buttons. It's going to be tough as hell.

I'm always after a good denim jacket...Can you provide any details on the denim weight or if it will be a more traditional design (ie Type II, III) or your own take?

Sure, it's going to be the same 14oz Cone Mills Selvedge that we used for the denim Rivet Chino. A nice dependable denim that takes a wash extremely well.

The basic jacket will be one-wash and we'll do a distressed one as well. Nothing too crazy. But something sharp that you could pair with a tee shirt underneath or an oxford/knit tie.

Denim jackets are funny - if you want to stick with a classic and clean style, there's only so much that you can do. This will be a straight-up piece, so no one will mistake you for wearing Diesel or being a member of Justin Bieber's entourage.

But the main innovations from my side will be (1) the slim cut that works with our shirting and (2) functional pockets. I personally don't wear denim jackets because most of them are like big thick shirts. I've got a phone and a card case to carry, and I don't like to carry them in my pant pockets if I can avoid it. So our denim jacket will have both side slash pockets and functional interior pockets. Like the CPO jacket. Pricing will be really competitive on it too.

I'm just a bit envious of the walt guys who have all the different tweeds etc. available, I heard they could be very warm especially when fully lined. I'm aching for some kind of a super-heavyweight cotton chino.

Also, the denim shirt looks pretty interesting to me. I'm curious to hear the price point for that one.

We've seen the writing on the wall over here! We're working on our own in-house fabric development, and it's clear that many of our customers are hungry for more cotton options. With our Cali production, we'll be able to bring a lot more to the table.

Denim shirt pricing isn't totally finalized, but it will be in the $130 range, just like our mainline shirts. It's going to pack a hell of a punch for that price!

I've been looking for an olive moleskin for a month now. Just purchased.

Thank you sir! We've got to update that item with some proper pics this weekend.

100% agree regarding the looser neck on the crew neck - would be preferable for layering over an oxford. Regardless, Mike this looks absolutely great.

Thank you! And sorry for the confusion - when I say that we're knocking out 2", that's the entire measurement around the collar. It won't be a huge visual difference, and this will still be very wearable with a collared shirt. This sample is just bordering on a boat neck at the moment. We have our own pattern being finished, so this piece was made with an existing, larger fit, but in our materials. The follow-up piece will have our fit.

Would love to see a shallower scoop on the hem, since I image this will be worn mostly untucked. Love it otherwise.

For me as a skinny guy I couldn't deal with a rise any lower than the rivets. I've already switched mostly over to Walts for the sole reason that the higher rise helps my shirts stay tucked in better. Even with the rivets rise my shirts (of any fit, even very slim) tend to blouse/pull out a lot. I prefer the generally more casual details of the rivets (button fly, larger belt loops, no crease) to that of the Walt so I would love to see casual pants with a higher rise. I'm probably the only one, though!

The hem scoop is pretty similar to our mainline shirts, so I used that as a first setting. We have a lot of guys who wear them untucked - especially here on the West Coast, so I stayed with that.

Thanks for excellent, detailed reply. It's such a pleasure to get so much insight into the process and timing of everything.
I just wanted to chime in on this and say that I really like the pocket shape (which some W+H hoodies have had in the past, too, IIRC) on this Momotaro hoodie, as well as the way that, when zipped all the way up, there's a bit of a collar/neck that stands up. It's harder to see here, but when seen on-model it's clear, and it's really cool. It's not too pronounced or ninja-style, just a cool way to offer more profile and something a little different that sets it apart.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Image from Blue Owl site.

EDIT: Your reply re: garment dyed chinos changed my view a little. They sound great, even if I'm not in need of lots of lighter weight pants. I would say that I'm 100% in favor a little more taper below the knee, but would hate to see that come at the expense of the current thigh dimensions. Rivets hit a real sweet spot of slim but not skinny and I love that. That said, a slightly smaller leg opening would be killer.

I totally agree - that's a great looking hoodie!

...

The momtaro one is quite nice and I would be interested in both that style which is more unique and also a sleeker hoodie. When walking my dog or running quick errands it's a lot easier to have stuff in pockets in a sweater vs pants I feel. I pretty much only have SNS which has no pockets. So something that would have side **** pockets would be pretty cool, where the hoodie is still clean in front but with the function if this makes any sense. Cut wise it'd be a little looser the the in house shirt fit to accomodate the pockets without showing? Also I know you mentioned the merino wool tees and stuff so maybe a fleece version like the momotaro and a sleeker merino wool one.[/quote

^ I also would probably vote against the X, but whatever. I can see the appeal.

Thanks so much for the feedback everyone!

I'd love to make and design our hoodie in concert with everyone here, and I'm in full agreement with many of you. Our hoodie is going to be a heavyweight piece with that higher zip stance and with usable pockets. When I arrived in Santa Monica, I went on an immediate hunt for something like that. It's not an easy thing to find as most hoodies here tend towards the soft/slinky side of the spectrum. I ended up paying too much for an Arc'teryx polar fleece jacket that makes me look like I'm waiting in line to do a keg stand.

I'm pretty sure that we can make a low-profile interior pocket on the hoody. I'm absolutely obsessed with interior pockets, and I want to build them into every jacket that we have. In terms the outside pockets, we'll use a patch pocket with an angled opening so if you place something into it then it will stay there. We'll use locked safety seams throughout it.

Now that we have the crewneck block and basic fit locked down, it's realistic to develop this for a late Jan, early Feb release. I'm looking at different zipper options for the front. Riri zippers from Switzerland are the go-to brand for higher end fleeces, but they add a HUGE amount to the cost. Retail could be nearly $30-$35 less if we don't use them. Me and Matt were totally shocked by this! The pricing is partially due to their quality, but largely due to the fact that they have an iron-clad distributor in the States who marks them up a crazy amount. If I can find a comparable quality two-way zip alternative, then I'll probably use that.

 

[Epaulet]

Fleece Pants?

So, I'm not sure if I'm getting institutionalized here in LA and that's leading me to believe that you guys would be into a pair of impossibly rad fleece pants. But I've got a sample in work to test the waters.

What would you guys say to a slim-fit pair of EPLA fleece pants with zip pockets, drawstring waist, and cuffs at the ankle? Done in thick heathered fleece, just like on the crewneck sweatshirt.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

YES TO FLEECE PANTS

 

[budapest12]

Fleece pants - Yes. I know you guys will do a great job with this.