Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

[peppercorn78]

Damn. I love my Hertling trousers. What a shame. I just put insome MTO Walt’s last month and was looking forward to spring MTOs as well.

I hope the employees can find alternate work. What part of brooklyn is the factory in?

 

[metals37]

@metals37 I don't want to say never, but I haven't seen it in testing and we've sold about 200 pcs without that complaint arising. We use a sealant and a slight enzyme batch after the indigo dye to fix the color.

Thanks for the response Mike!

 

[Epaulet]

Mike, knowing that a lot of respected retailers use Hertling for trouser production, how big of an impact do you imagine this closing will have? It is sad to see quality manufacturing jobs, in any industry, leave communities. Really enjoyed the factory pictures from your Hertling visits, especially the story of the gentleman who did most of the cutting on the Epaulet trousers.

@iamtripp it's really sad. I'm honestly very broken up about it today. Nearly 35 people will lose their jobs, and there's few other options for them. Everyone lives in NYC, and the clothing industry has been in decline there for some time. They have very specialized skills, so I don't know how easily that translates to another job. Hopefully they're all able to land on their feet to some extent.

For the retailers like me, we'll find alternate factories. I'm using Southwick for that, and it's lucky that we have such a strong and developing relationship with them. There are a few other places in the US where you can make product like this.. and lots in Europe. Places like Paul Stuart, Ben Silver, Sid Mashburn.. they'll be fine. I think that they were mostly buying from Hertling in honor of Julie's legacy and the people at the factory anyway. As was I.

Holy moly! I must have have that spearmint denim Doyle. Any idea when it'll be made available to order?

@Melomane glad that you dig it! I'll make it our next preorder item. Once Ultrafleck arrives, we'll put that jacket up as a special order piece.. and probably restock basics like Olive and Caramel duck alongside it.

 

[Patrick R]

The new jacket shape is going to be a twist on the Dartmouth. Same shoulder, but a longer body, lower button stance, and wider lapels. Still a little bit away on the sample, but I'm hoping that we can offer this starting mid-March.

Sounds a lot like the adjustments I've been making to the stock Dartmouth shape. I approve!

Hertling is closing its doors in about two weeks.

...

2) These four trousers are officially the last Hertling products that we'll ever have. Southwick cannot make the Garand, so if you dig that style especially, get another pair sooner than later.

I just took delivery of another pair of Garands today. I've been living in my pale khaki pair the past several weeks, so I grabbed a pair of olive Garands. Such great (thick and heavy) fabric. Fits in as a great substitute for my thick and cozy olive canvas pants from last year (which are also awesome).

 

[M635Guy]

Hertling trousers were my first orders from Epaulet as well. Glad I own some nice stuff marked "Made in Brooklyn"

Mike - your respect and love for Hertling (the man and the company) were manifest.

 

[Michigan Planner]

Very sad news about Hertling and the workers who are now going to be out of a job.

Comparing the stuff I have from Southwick to the stuff I have from Hertling, I always prefered the Hertling trousers - but they both had great quality and I have never been anything but happy with my Southwick stuff.

I may have to raid eBay to stock up on a few pair of Hertling trousers in some particular models that I probably won't be able to get anymore.

 

[tricky]

@metals37 I don't want to say never, but I haven't seen it in testing and we've sold about 200 pcs without that complaint arising. We use a sealant and a slight enzyme batch after the indigo dye to fix the color.



@nd1nd2nd3 glad that you dig that shirt.. one of my favorite fabrics that I've ever run.

The new jacket shape is going to be a twist on the Dartmouth. Same shoulder, but a longer body, lower button stance, and wider lapels. Still a little bit away on the sample, but I'm hoping that we can offer this starting mid-March.



@avsmusic1 not far off that. I'm getting a bunch of samples on Tuesday, including what should be the final jean. If that's good to go (I think it will be) then production is just about three weeks. For confirmed LA stuff, we'll have:

LA-Made Shirts (still need a good name): launching next Thursday

Doyles in Ultrafleck, REDA Hopsack, Olive Duck Canvas and "Mean Green" Cone Mills Denim: before end of month

Doyles in Sashiko: about first week of March, maybe beginning of second week.





@esoxm @Duke Silver

Thanks guys! Really excited for this piece. It's going to work off of the Doyle body. The details are:

3-Button Front
3.75" lapels (will probably look more like 3.25" as no canvassing to hold it in place)
Doyle Sleeves (with functional button cuffs)
Doyle Hip Pockets (open patch with side entry)
Welt Breast Pocket

The idea is to offer something along the lines of an EG Bedford Jacket... with more a traditional sportcoat lapel treatment. I personally like the Doyle functional details (cuffs, two-way pockets), but we'll see.. it might look too busy for this shape. Easy to change if that's the case. And yes, bet your ass that we'll be running lots of corduroy, tweeds, and wools in the Fall!

Whoa. Doyles and E.G. Bedfords are basically the only things I wear now aside from the odd day that calls for a formal sportcoat. Can't wait.

 

[Mghart]

@Epaulet Lots of exciting things coming, but sad to hear about Hertling. The pants I have from them I absolutely love, so I'm hoping Southwick can pattern match just the same and it'll be nice to have all the fabric options. Very interested to hear about the new Doyle shape in some fall fabrics!

 

[macjedi]

Is the Southwick Natural Shoulder still available? I see it as an option for the hopsack suits, but not the others.

 

[NewYawker]

That’s really sad to hear about Hertling closing their factory. I believe my first Epaulet purchase was pearl grey Walt’s from the orchard shop. My trousers wardrobe is pretty much all Hertling. Sad to see another nyc manufacturing shop close its doors.

 

[peppercorn78]

This famous Southwick IG video...where do I find it? Or is it gone forevs? What I see now is an admittedly very cool story with clips from Gitman Bros.

 

[lifeinabox]

This famous Southwick IG video...where do I find it? Or is it gone forevs? What I see now is an admittedly very cool story with clips from Gitman Bros.

Similar to this but with fabric swatches.

 

[peppercorn78]

LOL!

 

[FrankCowperwood]

Yeah I like what Mike’s done with his hair there.

 

[Handcuffed]

2) Indigo Sashiko Doyle Preorder is up.
We have enough fabric to make 80 Doyles for this round, so should be plenty to go around, but we've been sold out of this forever, so who knows. If you really want one, I'd say to order sooner than later to be safe. Fabric is ready to be cut on Friday, so we'll easily make or (more likely) beat that 3/15 ship date. You save 15% with this preorder and you can return or exchange after you get it if need be.

Just to confirm, but I missed this order, right? That IG post was enchanting and I immediately tried to order it when I saw it.