english shoes quality heirachy

[TheDarkKnight]

Originally Posted by kentuckyboy

I wanted to resurrect this thread because I am looking for a nice boot and am deciding from amongst various english shoe makers. I had originally intended to get a Jodhpur with straps but am open to other styles too. I know C+J are obviously great quality, but what about Barker's, Charles Tyrwhitt (I think these are Loakes?) and Sanders? Any recommendations for a nice jodhpur are welcome as well. C+J pricing on their new boots are a little high, so what is the best option a step down from that?

I was just looking at the CT site, they have some nice models of shoes and seem to have G fits in all sizes, so seem very versatile.

How is the CT quality guys? Is it the standard Loake quality, with more expensive items akin to Loake 1880?

 

[andreyb2]

Originally Posted by kentuckyboy

Any recommendations for a nice jodhpur are welcome as well. C+J pricing on their new boots are a little high, so what is the best option a step down from that?

N&L jodhpurs are currently on sale: http://www.newandlingwood.co.uk/product.php?id=439

Andrey

 

[PairOfDerby's]

I don't rate Tricker's or Loake too much. Church's are brilliant. I have a pair of Chelsea boots on right now and they feel like slippers. They will outlast anything.
Also, why are Oliver Sweeney and Jeffrey West not on these lists?

 

[Pengranger]

Originally Posted by PairOfDerby's

I don't rate Tricker's or Loake too much. Church's are brilliant. I have a pair of Chelsea boots on right now and they feel like slippers. They will outlast anything.
Also, why are Oliver Sweeney and Jeffrey West not on these lists?

Welcome to the forum. I see you've not been around long...

Tricker's make great value shoes that will last for years. They have a certain style which can be a love or hate thing. As for Loake, the top of the line shoes are also great value.

Church's don't get much love here I'm afraid. They are generally overpriced and over heavy, and beware of polished binder. Oliver Sweeney, from my experience, make poorly made shoes. Jeffrey West are generally too fashion forward for many and the build is unlikely to be any better than Tricker's.

If you're looking for the best shoes for the money, I think C&J lead the pack, closely followed by Cheaney and Tricker's.

 

[changy]

I understand the difference between C&J and Kenneth Cole, but what determines the difference between EG and C&J

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by changy

I understand the difference between C&J and Kenneth Cole, but what determines the difference between EG and C&J

Handwork, finishing, lasts, leather that is used, skill of workers, and finally heritage.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by TheDarkKnight

I was just looking at the CT site, they have some nice models of shoes and seem to have G fits in all sizes, so seem very versatile.

How is the CT quality guys? Is it the standard Loake quality, with more expensive items akin to Loake 1880?

Loake 1880 is better than CT. CT is corrected grain and the finishing isn't as good. Loake 1880 is also fully lined. I owed a pair of CT shoes years ago that were half lined, which isn't good for a variety of reasons.

 

[TheDarkKnight]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Loake 1880 is better than CT. CT is corrected grain and the finishing isn't as good. Loake 1880 is also fully lined. I owed a pair of CT shoes years ago that were half lined, which isn't good for a variety of reasons.

Ah thanks for your help Patrick. I do love the Loake 1880s that I own

 

[entrero]

Not all CT shoes are inferior quality. Some are just rebadged models from Loake 1880

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Edward Green (top draw)
Anthony Cleverley
John Lobb (prestige)
Edward Green
Church (royal - leather quality but sole stitch silly for quality shoe with poor finish)
John Lobb (classic)
Gaziano and Girling
Grenson (masterpiece)
Church (classic range - build very good and more material like more highend)
Trickers (country)
Grenson (old classic range)
C&J (benchgrade)
Church (low good year range - less material in construction and less leather quality)

Me not look at C&J handgrade and Cleverley classic very good and never see G&G deco.

 

[gradu8ed]

I am new to this thread and to SF as well. The list of English makers has had positive and productive exchanges which is very helpful. However my ignorance extends beyond just the English makers. Would it be possible to have a list that is inclusive of all the makers (Eurpean and U.S.) in the quality range of the English makers included in a separate list? What about Vass, Dsquared2, Prada, etc.

I recognize this is a deveation from the specified title of the thread but I've not found another thread that coveres all the better makers, e.g. the thread on the hierarchy for suit makers. If a thread like this already exist for shoes please accept my apologies for this post and let me know but I have searched and can't find one.

Cordially
Matthew

 

[ShadowOf]

How do Gordon Scott by C&J rank against Loake?

There is a GS by CJ and a Loake, both for sale on eBay at a good price. Which is a better show? And which will fit me (if either), I'm a 9.5 C/D in Allen Edmunds.

Loake:

GS by C&J:

 

[Percy Trimmer]



How do Gordon Scott by C&J rank against Loake?

Gordon Scott was a (long gone) shoe shop. CandJ always outrank Loake.

 

[chandelle]

They maybe inexpensive and lack all-leather soles but for Clarks to not even figure on anyone's list is a bit disappointing. My Dorset Boss has given me many years of pleasure and the build quality is superb.

PS: I'll never be able to afford an EG, much as I'd like to but might buy a Church's Dubai sometime in the foreseeable future.

 

[Luigi_M]

Sorry if I resurrect this thread, but I think could be useful for all to upgrade the original ranking.
I also note the lack, in many of the lists, of Alfred Sargent: that I know has good reputation.
I know that many members own and have experience of several brands and so might compare them.
My quality English shoes are restricted to vintage (I bought them as new - sigh): Church's (real cape buck and bookbinder grade), Cole Haan (made by Cheaney), Alden in Cordovan (though not really "English"), and two new pairs of AS in calf.
My humble list would so be (from better to lower):
Church's cape buck;
AS Armfield;
Cole Haan (Cheaney);
AS Balmoral (sample);
Alden;
Church's Bookbinder (very well and sturdily made, but corrected grain leather).

By sure many gentlemen will be able to put out far more comprehensive lists...
Best wishes, Luigi.