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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    The original issue I had was with SN being biased on reviews of the Rubinacci and Crompton suit based on the individual/company when there was nothing inherently wrong with the suit. When looking at slew's suit and comparing it to vox's I am certainly perplexed. The cut worn by Vox is flattering while the suit worn by slewfoot just seems off in the chest, waist, and skirt. In the end it's all about a happy client and if slewfoot is happy with the cut then there is no need for a change.

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    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  2. arnathor

    arnathor Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2015
    2 people like this.
  3. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks for translating SN for us.
     
  4. BD22

    BD22 Senior member

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    I agree with you about Crompton. His posts, though, are generally non-critical (this makes me dismissive of any expertise he seems to project to some people). So he seems more deceptive in comparison to SF's tenor of discussion than to his own.

    With the comparison to Vox in mind, I think you're right about the fit of the suit. The waist is so elongated that rather than making the chest look prominent, the waist suppression just makes his torso look unusually long and the jacket skirt-like.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  5. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Wait I am confused. Both those suits are made by Steed aren't they?

    I guess I was just confused and thought some comments were directed towards those two suits, I guess not then.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  6. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    I like Slewfoot's suit (though not the gray 4x2 one), but Vox's has less drape (needs less drape, given his athletic build), and seems to have lower-set buttons (look at the lowest buttons relative to the pockets).

    Arnathor, my beef with SC's light gray flannel is that it manages to be both too tight in the upper leg (honeycombing) and a bit wide at the ankle for my taste. Much too straight a cut.

    And that angle's not terrible, if you assume it's a parody of '90s magazine ads.
     
  7. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    One tailor, two different clients and two different cuts to suit each of their needs. In my opinion this is the real benefit of bespoke when working with one tailor over an extended period of time. I believe there has been more interaction between Vox and Edwin in terms of how the suits are made in which the pattern has been refined over time. Vox clearly has less drape in the chest and slimmer skirt which I think is a very flattering cut for his physique. I made the comment in the Gennaro Paone thread that a certain individual looking to sample a different set of goods should stick with their tailor and work on refining his pattern. Mafoo also made a similar comment that one will have a true feel for the tailors capabilities after a 11 or so suits. But what do I know.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
  8. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    I really don't get this about 11 suits. My current tailor got my jacket fit sorted from the start, and with small adjustments had it fixed to the extent that I had nothing to suggest by the third suit at the latest.

    With regards to Slewfoot, I thought the proportions of the grey 4 button jacket seemed off; the square made by the buttons seemed too small - I'd probably have gone to two button (like I often do). I like SC's grey flannel suit because I like grey flannel but the fit seems a bit loose and slouchy.
     
  9. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  10. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

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    maybe i'm in the minority but i prefer slew's steed to vox's. Slew's drape looks great.
     
  11. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Your current tailor may have your fit locked in but preferences change over time. You may wish to add or subtract certain details/fit over time to refine YOUR style.

    Slew's suit isn't bad I just wish the waist and how it transitions from the chest to the skirt was cleaner. I think he has a versatile wardrobe based on what he has posted.
     
  12. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  14. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    You said about bloggers who got a big % nowadays on the business, now i have just readed another fake article on the main French one, honestly i can´t stand this bloggers and DO RECOMMEND to all of you to do NOT READ THEM unless is to get fun. This is the last technical nonsense i just readed;



    I just wrote this to Hugo Jacomet, who is writtting articles saying that a good shirt must have a unfused collar or the last button, oh wait, sewn horizontal. This is incredible and a prove he is poluting the industry as i would do if i ever opened a blog about let's say, bullfighting or hockey on icedwheels per example

    http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/anatomy-of-a-quality-shirt-2/#comment-573324

    I am very sorry, I have been trained several years in Naples with the Kiton and Borrelli grandmasters among the one who is considered the best grandmaster alive in Naples and perhaps in the world, got all the Italian Republic official diplomas about shirtmaking and patternmaking and the fact of a non fussed collar as a signal of better is simply fake and another clueless article written by outsiders who listen hypes here and there as on this sad case.

    Unfused collars do look bubbled, and a good fused collar with a high pressure super expensive machine ( we got one costing more than a 911 Turbo S) with top interlining does a far better collar.

    You are confussing your personal taste or a hype with
    what is technically better( again)

    Honestly i can´t stand this blog as well as the Simon Cromptom or the Aristocrata one, who we got plenty of his sartorial fails on the High Tailoring school walls as prove of wrong everything for our pupils ( Bad tailoring) sorry to say, but you are outsiders writting technically nonsense all the time and confusing good people who just want to learn how to dress properly and gets this dumb articles all the time.

    Also, another mistake when you are confussing your personal " taste" with what is technically good or not, the last button horizontal. This is another nonsense. I deleted you time ago and wrote all this to you on a social media. Please close this blog and do other things out of poluting the sartorial world with articles as this.

    Thank you very much.


    Anatomy of a Quality Shirt | Parisian Gentleman
    parisiangentleman.co.uk
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    Anatomy of a Quality Shirt | Parisian Gentleman

    parisiangentleman.co.uk
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2015
  15. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    Thanks for posting @sartodi and keeping this thread alive. :fu: Very good that someone ON THE INSIDE is still defending the THRUTH and the TRADITIONAL CONSERVATIVE VALUES of the CLOTHING INDUSTRY :thumbs-up: But why post this comment in the double breasted thread :puzzled: ? It's a comment about shirt collars, right :brick: ? Or are you just posting it here because Hugo generally likes to cover his pot belly with a bespoke double breasted jacket? :bigstar:
     
  16. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    I was answering a poster commented that this blogs are a must in the industry and here is my answer as is my moral duty to help people from dishonest shills or writters who totally ignores the truth as on this case and poor article.

    I am glad you liked it. That is my duty, a social service for a sane society. Thank you
     
  17. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I feel like SN deserves his own thread where we give him pictures of items and outfits and he bashes them in his charming way.
     
    5 people like this.
  18. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    Would absolutely subscribe to that thread.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    jajaja[​IMG]

    Btw Hugo Jacomet has deleted my polite post telling all the technical fails on his article, so another prove he is not into this to show the truth to the people, and is not a humble person who wants to learn, but to what you all already know... This are the false idols of so many people, sadly. Let´s help them to see the Light.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2015
  20. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    Was just going thru the spare closet -- I need to wear the DB jacket from Al Bazar more. To date, one of the best looking, best fitting clothing I've seen. Wish I could get a DB solid tan jacket or DB gray flannel suit from them!!

    http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/al-bazar-milan/
     

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