Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    The first one is a bit tricky, so let's begin with that. The reason why I don't think it works is that the distance between the middle and upper row of buttons appears too short in relation to the distance between the middle and lower row. The wearer's posture might make this problem look worse than it is, but I don't believe a more relaxed posture would eliminate it. The solution I would suggest is to lower the two bottom rows until the middle row is roughly equidistant from the two others (thereby also lowering the closure of the jacket, which would have the added benefit of making the wearer look less stuffy). (I should mention that one of the resident tailors on here -- I forget whom -- once wrote that the standard practice is actually to make the distance between the middle and upper row ever so slightly longer than the distance between the middle and lower row.) The problem is that this operation would necessitate the jacket being completely recut, which is ... a bit of a hassle. I therefore would just remove the upper row of buttons, which would not be ideal, but still better than the jacket's current look.

    The second one I've dabbled with in Photoshop:

    [​IMG]

    In my opinion, the only jackets that look better as 6x1s than 4x1s are ones where the overlap (or "wrap") is very slight. This is not one such jacket, however, and worse, the upper row seems awkwardly placed (but it's a bit hard to tell since there's a lot of pulling going on). Eagle-eyed readers will notice that I took the liberty to move the middle button row on the diagonal. It could be left as is, but I think this look is more pleasing on the eye.
     


  2. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    I agree. eyes for your edit is very pleasant. A 4x1 to me like a lot more. Of course, the wearer is not the best.
     


  3. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I quite like it because it's a bit jaunty. Like a gorgeous girl with slightly crooked teeth. Think it's got some character.
     


  4. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    .....for the record my wife does not have crooked teeth.
     


  5. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    you look so elegant ... for me those years are the years when you created the elegant classic we all know and wear with slight modifications.

    And above all pairings are double-breasted and dream.
     


  6. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Have to agreed with you David. I have a few suits made by WW Chan and Gordon Yao and they are great, fits perfectly and the workmanships is fantastic. I do feel something is missing compare to the suits that has been made by my old Italian tailors and my other tailor who used to worked for Huntsman. The Hong Kong suits almost feels two dimensional. There are less iron work used to shape the chest for instance. You are correct is hard to explained but once you put on the garments you'll know which suits you'll want to wear more often.
     


  7. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    one of my summer, mostly unlined, linen dbs

    [​IMG]

    -
     


  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    You are quite the dandy!
     


  9. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    most people here now probably have no idea who you are and have no idea just how conservative this outfit is compared to your other stuff. That is a nice DB but you love those crazy colors.
     


  10. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    [​IMG]

    This has been on my form for a few days. The button placement is a bit on the wider side.
     


  11. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    beautiful proportions and beautiful ... congratulations
     


  12. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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  13. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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  14. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    Pirozzi is a great tailor,but in this suit the lapels are too much wide ,and the button placement is excessively large.
    Nothing of wrong,but is not my style; is more 70s that 30s anyway.

    I love the style.
    Lapels are too much narrow in my opinion,but i love the clean silhouette,the "military air",the slender button placement and the high waist.


    My favourite style in double breasted is this:
    This is a British double breasted of 1936:

    [​IMG]

    This is a DB of Panico (another great Neapolitan tailor):
    [​IMG]

    And this is a DB of Liverano (the famous Florentine tailor):
    [​IMG]

    Clean and proportionate,nothing of bold or excessive.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2013


  15. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    The Roped shoulders of the Reeves (picture #2) ruin the jacket for me.I much prefer the 1936 version in the next picture.
     


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