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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. greger

    greger Senior member

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    Well, well, well. Where are customers supposed to go if nobody says where? If these tailors are not interested in putting their names out, then they are not interested in business, or they are not interested in you speaking for them. If that is so, then you have nothing to offer, and you are wasting your time. No directions, then people go wherever they go because your words have no value.
     
    2 people like this.
  2. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    Just wondering, since I've seen Chiaia Napoli on Ebay a couple of times, do you have any experience with their RTW stuff? What brands are they comparable to, in terms of quality.
     
  3. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    So, if you're coming to Napoli and happen to meet SN there and ask him where to get a good "tazzulella 'e cafè", he'll list all the bad cafetterie where you shouldn't go? ;)
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Valid point made...
     
  5. A Canuker

    A Canuker Senior member

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    This thread was much better when people just posted pictures.
     
    4 people like this.
  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Indeed.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    Indeed is a monstrosity.
    I want to be clear: i don't like the current Neapolitan's style.
    Naples had great tailors in clean style: Caggiula,Schiraldi,Gallo,Blasi,Bruno,all great.
    Now this more clean style is forgot for the other school,the soft destructurate school of Cesare Attolini,head cutter of Rubinacci in 30s and 40s.
    But also those soft and flabby coats were originally only for summer leisure coats and suits!
    Now Neapolitan style is almost only identified with the ultra flabby garnment,and often errors and bad tailoring are covered under the label "soft tailoring",
    But this is also fault of these foreign customers that ask only for the Neapolitan soft school.
    Italy tailoring is not only Naples,Naples is not only destructurate garments.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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  9. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    This failing attempt to both manipulate my words, my main message and everything that is so ridiculous that i won´t answer, because has any sense and because i already spoke about it, and the forum doesn´t needs ridiculous twisted messages as this. This is the message with any value but cheap demagogy.

    What this tailors are sure not interested is on this kind of clientele or this " promotion" based on how much do i pay before,that behaviour without dignity or honour, called in Italian " embroione", twister or bullshitter( sorry for using that word) should be a translation. Here the perfect example and perhaps, the perfect reader of the expossed bloggers and "tailors".

    My ignore list is getting feeded lastly. Do you remember how many called me troll, fake shirtmaker etc on the famous exposing threads, or even my post deleted and then the rest thanked me to have warned them, others who mock me then lost their money etc? Here we have another who wants to censor me or dares to say " my words have no value".

    Judge yourselves...
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015
  10. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    This Chiaia even are using the same name another company seems using at this time, maybe any registered it, and even it seems are 3 different CHIAIA at this time. One seems low end fused low price stuff, other i don´t know, and the worst of all is this one.

    Jajaja, never got a bad coffee in Naples, same as only had a bad pizza once. Sadly can´t say the same about tailoring as you all know and i wish i could say the contrary.[​IMG]

    I am sorry is totally invalid and empty of everything.

    Thanks God are some real experts on the forum who know about tailoring and not my usual haters who can´t id a poor job because it comes from a famous name, from good suits, just follow hypes and blogs and want to censor the "black sheep" who doesn´t follows the rest. Lack of personality has been always a society problem. Plato himself warned us several thousands of years ago and still we are even on a worst point, involuted.

    One of my masters says that spalla camicia shoulder is only for Summer informal jackets, he is over 80 years old and that he won´t ever do on a formal jacket. Even personally i like it, this effect has been exagerated by this people of Sciamat and so others to a point that some jackets look a parody and a joke.

    The image that those BLOGS are selling about Naples is so fake, that i have had insults on this same page by trying to help people not paying mad prices and giving the real prices real Neapolitans do pay for suits, or do they think a guy whose salary is 800 euros( less on most of the cases) can pay 3500 for his wedding frac or suit? Again i was a troll, a faker etc. Thanks for again, telling what Naples is on reality.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  11. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  12. Kira

    Kira Senior member

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    @SartodiNapoli , what are your opinions on the DB's of the 1970's (wide lapels, narrow shoulders, nipped waist, etc.)?
     
  13. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Hello,

    The jacket style of the late 70´s is one of my favorites ( sure not the elephant trousers of the same age) Also on American film or tv series that can be seen daily on secondary tv channels can be seen nice tailoring for the age. Kojac per example even not too narrow but nice to see.
     
  14. Kira

    Kira Senior member

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    I read somewhere that flared trousers existed before the 1970's. On another thread, I posted some links from Cutter and Tailor that are dedicated to the era. One of them compares the it to 1930's tailoring:

    1. The 1930s vs 1970s - a Comparative Study

    http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=557

    2. The Best of the 1970s

    http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=585

    3. The Elegant High Shoulder

    http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=410
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    More horrible defective DB untailoring by after Rubinacci, the worst hyped parody of tailoring, SCIAMAT and CHIAIA ( the cheap copy of Sciamat, who are already a bad copy of the non good Rubinacci) [​IMG]

    Note how the CHIAIA guy who is not a tailor but always says he is, copies the defective attemp of roped shoulders of Sciamat but gets a wrinkled too wide bad sleeve. If you try to copy a bad thing, you get a poor thing. Note, the Sciamat sleeves seems ok cutted ( apart of the horrible exagerated shoulder) from the deltoid downwards, while the Chiaia are a baggy wrinkled crime.

    [​IMG]

    Defective CHIAIA sleeve, and habitual BLOGGER; ( any who ever gets a minimun idea, would ever wear such defective sleeve, note how this bad tailoring is only featured on newbie Bloggers/fashionistas who seem to get money for promotion)
    [​IMG]

    As I was saying, any expert would ever wear such profanation of classic style as this strange pocket thing inside a trouser pleat thing;

    [​IMG]


    The glossy Hugo Boss like is simply disgusting and he is the cutter and owner of Sciamat.[​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    This other who always breaks the dressing rule, now on a poor opened DB

    is the selfowner and brother.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
  16. A Canuker

    A Canuker Senior member

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    What on earth are those suits, if they can be called such. Uhg.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Is this serious?? [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Oh yes, Wait, got more DB of "Sciamat" from BLOGGERS, WARNING MIGHT CAUSE NAUSEA. And some people pays 4500 e for this, JAJAJAJAA[​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Him on another joke of DB and the WORST Blogger ever, this one is blacklisted in half of the Neapolitan tailoring houses. We don´t want " dressers" as yours or your readers, we are serious people. Is what some said to him.( or they told me)[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
  19. Kira

    Kira Senior member

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    Two four patch pockets? Oh my goodness... [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
  20. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.

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