denim recommendation?

[Renault78law]

Please pick out a pair of jeans for me. I'm 6'2", 180lbs, 26 years old. My favorite jeans are Helmut Lang, but the yoox gravy-train seems to have run out. I think they were "Classic bootcut" or something. I really like HL's because they have no branding or embroidery on the back pockets, and they come in a straight leg (I can't stand the slightest bit of flare). Any suggestions? The straight leg thing is a must, I'm flexible about the back pocket stitching, so long as it's either discrete or esoteric. I'm looking to spend around $250 or less. Local recommendations would be great too...maybe I should just go to Fred Segal? btw, is their sale coming up anytime soon?

 

[Brian SD]

Did you want unwashed/stiff, or washed/treated?

 

[Geowu]

try APC. They're excellent quality, similar to Helmut Lang in style, selvage denim, no labels, and even low-priced for $120. buy them online at APC site

 

[LA Guy]

If you like a raw denim, basic jean, I would recommend the APC Standard (old or new), which is cut similarly to the Helmut Lang Classic jean (but a little more straightleg, and a little less tapered). Personally, I would go with the Corpus Fine, in either the raw or processed denim, but they have more non-standard details (like a very distinctive back pocket) that may not be your thing.

The Fred Segal sale is always in September, so unless you can wait until then... it's full retail for you buddy.

 

[Renault78law]

Did you want unwashed/stiff, or washed/treated?

i'm leaning towards unwashed. i really want a pair of nudie reg ralf's in the dry selvage wash, but i just can't stomach the (albeit minor) bootcut.

 

[Renault78law]

If you like a raw denim, basic jean, I would recommend the APC Standard (old or new), which is cut similarly to the Helmut Lang Classic jean (but a little more straightleg, and a little less tapered).  Personally, I would go with the Corpus Fine, in either the raw or processed denim, but they have more non-standard details (like a very distinctive back pocket) that may not be your thing.

The Fred Segal sale is always in September, so unless you can wait until then... it's full retail for you buddy.

Thanks for the info. I googled "Corpus Fine" and didn't up with anything. Do you know of a place (online or otherwise) I can look at them and purchase?

I've considered the APC's. They seem like a great value. Any other suggestions?

 

[LA Guy]

i'm leaning towards unwashed. i really want a pair of nudie reg ralf's in the dry selvage wash, but i just can't stomach the (albeit minor) bootcut.

I would highly recommend the APC Unisex (the New Standard)as a cheaper, high quality alternative with absolutely no bootcut.

 

[rearviewmirror]

Corpus I personally hate their back pocket design more than anything since some of the von dutch jeans. Nudie also has a jean called Straight Sven that is currently only made in limited quantities, but come this fall should be included in their main line. I would also recommend the APC Unisex.

 

[Brian SD]

Renault, then I would also recommend the APC jeans - they will not disappoint you. The Helmut Langs are also great. If you find some "Boot leg" Helmuts, be aware that they have 0 flare - they are completely straight. The Nudie RR's do have a noticeable boot-cut. It's not as drastic as anything from PDC or True Religion, but you'd be fooling yourself thinking they're really straight-leg. Bummer to miss out on some of the best denim I've seen, but I can understand that.

I would also say to go down to Fred Segal/Hollywood Trading Company, where you can try the APCs on. The ones you're looking for will have a "New Standard" tag on the inside of the waistband. If you do not wear jeans very often (I assume this is true since you have a business-suit job), you can wear them for a long time without washing them (not 90-100 wearings like some of us, but even 10-20 wearings with no washing is going to give you some excellent looking denim that will take longer to fade).

It's not very difficult to spot rigid denim, I suggest that if you do go to FS to try and spy out some other jean brands as well. We're pretty susceptible to groupthink here - we've been recommending APC for awhile (with good reason, of course), but there are certainly lots of other denim companies that make what you're aiming for. If you're curious about a brand you found come ask about them here and I can guarantee at least one of us has seen them before.

Anyone know if they sell 5EP at FS, or do they only sell it at American Rag? I would check them out if you see them. They are my new favorites, and it doesn't take a denim nerd to tell that they are excellent jeans.

 

[Cake]

Steven Alan sells Corpus Denim Fine Rinse online. Here is the link: http://www.stevenalan.com/custome....68330a# You may or may not like the back pocket style, though. As mentioned before the APC is a great pair of jeans, and it sounds like the New Standard might be suitable for your needs, and comes at a good price too. The fabric is actually slightly thicker than the Regular Ralf, although the lower rise of the Nudie gives it the edge in terms of cutting. Or you can splurge another USD50 and get the 5EP straight cut dry selvage for about USD300. I have the boot cut version, and it's one of my favourite pairs of jeans. Nice slubby deadstock denim, with a unique green cast, and thin belt loops. All made in Japan.

 

[LA Guy]

I love the dropped back pocket on the Corpus jeans.  And the triple stitching and cool colors on a clean, beautiful denim?  Yo break my heart, rearviewmirror (sounds like a Prince song, doesn't it?)

Anyone know if they sell 5EP at FS, or do they only sell it at American Rag? I would check them out if you see them. They are my new favorites, and it doesn't take a denim nerd to tell that they are excellent jeans.

I have not seen 5EP at FS, and that was about a month ago.  I think that in the LA area, I've only seen them in American Rag (last weekend.) I am not that big a fan of 5EP, sorry Brian.  In my mind's eye, although they are really good jeans, Corpus is far superior, and much cheaper to boot (in relative terms, of course).

Cake, the rinse wash is the "raw denim", except rinsed once. They will still wear in the same way as raw denim, but have a matte look to begin with, rather than the shiny sanforized look of the dry Nudies or APC jeans. Be aware that the new Corpus are cut really true to size - the very antithesis of the enormous sizing of the APC New Standards. I just got a pair of Morphys in size 32/32, and they are cut about the same as a pair of Paper Denim GTOs in size 31 (i.e. It is taking some wearing in and natural stretching out to get them to be really comfortable.) They are slightly tighter on me right now than on the model on the Activeendeavors site.

 

[Brian SD]

have not seen 5EP at FS, and that was about a month ago. I think that in the LA area, I've only seen them in American Rag (last weekend.) I am not that big a fan of 5EP, sorry Brian. In my mind's eye, although they are really good jeans, Corpus is far superior, and much cheaper to boot (in relative terms, of course).

Hahaha, I'm not offended by your comments, just that a MODERATOR has such horrible taste. Kidding, of course. I was at AR last weekend too (on Friday, right before they closed). I haven't recommended Corpus because personally I don't like them, so at least the argument is reciprocated.

 

[Cake]

Have to agree with Brian here. I can't help thinking that those Corpus back pockets would look seriously dated two, three years from now. Which is why I normally stick to classic, five pocket designs.

 

[LA Guy]

Have to agree with Brian here. I can't help thinking that those Corpus back pockets would look seriously dated two, three years from now. Which is why I normally stick to classic, five pocket designs.

Uh oh. Soon you'll be telling us that Cary Grant was the pinnacle of style and that it's all been downhill from there. Kidding.

I personally try to look at things day-to-day, and not worry about being "dated" in a few years time. That only happens when a brand becomes over extended, the way Von Dutch did, and True Religion is doing. Cult (read limited production) brands never become popular enough to become so. And I think that the appeal of the Corpus pocket design and cuts are just off the straight and narrow enough that it will stay a cult brand.

 

[Brian SD]

Uh oh. Soon you'll be telling us that Cary Grant was the pinnacle of style and that it's all been downhill from there. Kidding. I personally try to look at things day-to-day, and not worry about being "dated" in a few years time. That only happens when a brand becomes over extended, the way Von Dutch did, and True Religion is doing. Cult (read limited production) brands never become popular enough to become so. And I think that the appeal of the Corpus pocket design and cuts are just off the straight and narrow enough that it will stay a cult brand.

Maybe James Dean in '47 Levis would be the SW forum elitist guy instead of Cary Grant.

And I agree, Corpus will probably be under the radar for at least awhile, though the jeans wouldn't look out of place on some of the east-coast-looking guys around here.