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Massdrop x Naked & Famous Ichiban selvedge Weird Guy review: pictures, thoughts, words, links

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by notwithit, Jun 19, 2017.

  1. notwithit

    notwithit Pullup laureate

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    As one of a handful of people test-driving the soon-to-be-released Massdrop x Naked & Famous Massdrop Ichiban selvedge Weird Guy jeans, I thought I'd share some initial impressions. Obviously plenty has been written here about Naked & Famous, including a 900-page thread that's been around since 2008. So why am I writing this? Mostly because Fok (and Mike at Massdrop) asked me to, and they bribed me with a sample pair.

    First, a word on the Weird Guy cut:

    N&F has a handful of cuts, but the original three are Slim Guy (slim-straight), Weird Guy (tapered), and Skinny Guy (skinny, obvs). Of these, the Weird Guy is probably the most universally flattering. In Levi's terms, Slim Guy is like a 514, and the Skinny Guy is closest to the 510. The Slim Guy can look a little sloppy at the point where it hits the shoe on account of the wider leg opening, and the Skinny Guy is probably only going to work if you are, as the name implies, skinny.

    The Weird Guy strikes a solid middle ground: the rise and thigh generous enough to work for a decent swath of humanity (although powerlifters might want to try the recently released Easy Guy cut), while there's enough taper below the knee to give them a modern, 'clean' look. I already own a couple pairs, all of them on the lighter-weight end of the spectrum: dungaree (from a few seasons ago with a grey weft and tonal stitching), featherweight (5 oz, whoop!), and lightweight natural indigo, which together are pretty much my go-to summer jeans collection.

    As the nit-pickiest of nit-pickers (and in an effort to remain fair and balanced, now that Fox News no longer claims to do so), I have a couple of nits to pick with Weird Guys. These are all personal preference, but I'm the one writing this, so you'll have to voice your disagreement in subsequent posts.

    - The fly seems oddly short. There are four buttons in all (including the one at the waistband), and since these aren't particularly low-rise, I would think they could space them out a little more. It doesn't make a huge difference, but it's also never quite made sense to me.

    - The pocket openings are restrictive enough to be slightly annoying. Admittedly, I'm pretty skinny and have fairly large hands. I understand the reasoning, since a pocket opening that fits closer to the body yields a more streamlined silhouette (I think that's the logic, anyway). Regardless, in an age of > 6" cell phones, they can be a little hard to work with.

    - In my very subjective opinion, a touch more room at the hip, thigh, and knee could up the comfort level without drastically altering the appearance.

    On to these jeans in particular:

    The denim - which is apparently exclusive to this release - falls pretty comfortably in the middle of just about everything, including the weight at 13.75 oz. There's a little bit of slub, but nothing crazy; they're a little on the starchy side, but not overly stiff; there's a slight hairiness to the denim on close inspection, but it's not particularly visible from afar; and the hand is moderately rough, but not to an extent that's going to yield any discomfort. There's a decent amount of weft (natural-colored rather than white) poking through, which lends them a slightly brighter appearance in spite of the relatively dark indigo (which is, as it turns out, natural rather than synthetic). My favorite aspect has to be the selvedge line, which is a lighter blue that I haven't seen before.

    The details are mostly on par with what you'd expect from N&F (caveat: I'm wearing a sample pair, so there's an off chance that the actual Massdrop release will differ slightly from my description). There are, as per usual, bar-tacked back pockets, riveted front and coin pockets, and a (slightly rattly) button fly (the hardware is all custom to N&F). The hem is chainstitched, and the stitching falls a touch further from the hem than I've come to expect from most jeans. The stitching is a medium brown that contrasts with the denim without the garish effect you can get from bright yellow stitching. There's hidden selvedge at the coin pocket, which I strongly prefer to the exposed selvedge I've seen on a few older pairs of N&F jeans (and I always feel a little cheated if there's no coin pocket selvedge at all). The selvedge lies nice and flat rather than irksomely folding over. The top buttonhole on my pair could have been cut a little further, but this isn't my first rodeo and I didn't have a problem widening it slightly. I've always been somewhat ambivalent about the arguably NSFW leather patch N&F uses, but the thick, undyed veg-tan leather they used (reading 'Naked & Massdrop') may be my favorite detail.

    On to measurements, with the very significant caveat that I'm a total amateur here. These are a size 28 (yay for vanity sizing).

    hem: 6 7/8"
    front rise: 11"
    back rise: 13 1/2"
    thigh (1" down from crotch): 11"
    waist, laid flat w/ natural dip: 14 7/8"
    waist with front and back waistband aligned: 15 1/4"

    I was a little hesitant putting these on for the first time. My other pairs of N&F Weird Guys are all size 29, which is comfortable from the get-go but requires me to wear a belt in situations where I want to minimize my risk of sudden pantlessness. I opted to go with size 28 because that was all they had. They started out a little snug but totally buttonable, and within a couple of hours they stretched to being pretty comfortable. I'm currently on my 7th day wearing them and the waist now measures 15 1/4" laid flat, 16 1/4" with the front and back of the waistband aligned.

    edit: I just realized I forgot to include my stats. I'm 6'1" and currently around 145. I'd consider my 'normal' jeans size to be 30, so I'm sizing down 2 here (same as I'd size APC NS, if people still wear those).

    On to pictures:

    IMG_20170613_115512304.jpg
    fresh out of the box

    IMG_20170613_121059732.jpg
    oddly misspelled tag, custom hardware

    IMG_20170613_115617608.jpg
    hidden coin pocket selvedge

    IMG_20170614_183700259_HDR-2.jpg
    fit pic, 2nd day of wear

    IMG_20170614_183619239_HDR.jpg
    anticipating some decent honeycombs behind the knees

    Anywho, I'll keep posting some updates as these evolve over the next few months. Looks like the drop is now live, so...have at, I guess?
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2017


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Nice - fwiw, the legs definiely look to the be the right size on you.
     


  3. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    Ok, thanks for the writeup. But I am not sure what your conclusion is. Are you a buyer or seller?
     


  4. notwithit

    notwithit Pullup laureate

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    Thanks. For the record, I think 28 (sizing down 2 from my 'normal' jeans size) is probably closer to the intended fit of the N&F WGs.

    Tester? Sample-wearer? I would encourage the reader / prospective buyer to draw his own conclusions.
     


  5. bry2000

    bry2000 Distinguished Member

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    Ok, reading between the lines, this is a sell.
     


  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    So, to be clear, doing Massdrop pre-drop reviews is something that Styleforum does as an ongoing collaboration with Massdrop.

    However, we do not try to influence the reviewers in any way, other than choosing to do this in Massdrops where forum interest is likely to be higher rather than lower, and the reviews themselves are not paid for. We just ask for and pick from a pool of volunteers, and generally pick posters who we know are posting reliably and consistently first, and second, that have good product knowledge in a specific category, so there is is little danger of "hope of return".

    The members involved typically do receive a free product (I'm not sure who wants the jeans after 6+ months of wear), but no other compensation.

    Cheers,

    Fok.
     


  7. richnet12

    richnet12 Distinguished Member

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    Who wants six month old jeans? May I direct you to the Thrifters Thread?
     


  8. gaseousclay

    gaseousclay Distinguished Member

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    my guess is the 4 button fly vs 5 button fly has to do with cost savings. I typically only see 5 button flys with Japanese brands, but you're also paying a premium for them. could also be that Japanese brands that use 5 button flys are also going for authenticity.
     


  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    lol. Yeah, okay, I stand corrected. But... unwashed?
     


  10. richnet12

    richnet12 Distinguished Member

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    They...I mean ME...oh yes!!
     


  11. richnet12

    richnet12 Distinguished Member

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    Please sell me your unwashed selvedge jeans any day!
     


  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    That's not it. It's a styling decision. I mean, you often seen 5 buttons on Dad jeans at Walmart. To put it in perspective, the buttons cost maybe 10 cents, and add esssentially no money to the cost of manufacture. The savings on pretty much ANY of the jeans we talk about on this forum, are negligible.
     


  13. tropics

    tropics Distinguished Member

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    I got a sample pair but unfortunately out of the country for a couple of weeks so I haven't seen them yet. Will post some impressions early next week.
     


  14. wogbog

    wogbog Distinguished Member

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    i feel like unusable front pockets has been my raw denim experience generally
     


  15. adamdurbin

    adamdurbin Senior Member

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    I was given the opportunity by Fok and Mike from Massdrop to review these jeans. I was jazzed to do it - I have several pairs of N&F jeans, though none in weird guy. Unfortunately, when the jeans arrived, they were 1 size too large, and I didn't think they would get appropriate wear. So, I sent them on to a very good friend, who is going to do this review for us in a few months.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Combined initial thoughts (from me and my friend):
    Naked and Famous' Weird Guy is a looser fit than usual for me. For reference, I wear size 30 in skinny guy/unbranded, and petit new standard's in size 29. The fit on these is more relaxed in the crotch, and it's wider in the thighs, with a tapered lower leg.

    Massdrop suggests these jeans have a slight slub to the denim, which you can definitely feel. It's not super noticable unless you're looking for it. The color is also described as natural indigo, but it's not as light as my usual natural indigo jeans - it really is the starting color of a good pair of raw denim. The stitching is classic dark orange. The weight is around 14oz, which is going to be a bit rough in the summer - especially once they're soaked and shrink a bit. I doubt they'll go to the super-heavy range, but they're going to be heavier for sure.

    The patch on the back is unique, with the usual N&F girl, but instead of "Naked and Famous" it says "Naked and Massdrop." This is cool, but the really amazing part of this is the patch itself, which is natural leather. I can't wait to see how this tans. The selvedge line is classic, and the jeans, all in, are just really beautiful. As with all Naked and Famous jeans, they seem a bit better and hardier than their pricetag, but this is particularly amazing with a pricetag of $100 even. These would probably retail in the 150-200 range.

    When I handed these jeans to my friend, he immediately said to me - "These are cool guy jeans." I'd probably agree with him - the color is sweet and dark, and if they fade as Massdrop and N&F say they will, these are going to be awesome. He told me that the pockets and button fly were tough to stretch in initially, but have started to work in. The hand is starchy initially but have a quick flex to them, and are comfortable almost right away.

    Fit pics at day 1:
    IMG_1094.JPG IMG_1096.JPG
     


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