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denim recommendation?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Renault78law, Apr 21, 2005.

  1. ringring

    ringring Senior member

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    Props to Touitou and Erixon. My question regarding the histories of GAP, APC and Nudie was, I guess, rhetorical. The point I was trying to make was that GAP's history is at least as long (started by husband & wife team from one shop in '69) and distinguished as the other two brands mentioned. (APC started in '87, Nudie in 2001). Personally, I find a lot of merit in clothing that doesn't demand attention - and for me, that includes APC & Nudie jeans. It's a nice change from Vivian Westwood and Dolce & Gabbana [​IMG] [​IMG] Brian - definitely no offense taken, and I hope likewise on your part.
     
  2. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    ring-ring, I appreciate your great knowledge over at Superfuture. Don't you think that Nudie has gone overboard though with their constant harping on "living fabric", and how they are the one's who UNDERSTAND denim?
     
  3. ringring

    ringring Senior member

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    T4phage Thanks  [​IMG] Regarding Nudie, I've not noticed anything particularly overboard about their marketing. I've not noticed any claims to be THE brand that understands denim. Got a link?
     
  4. cloud9eleet

    cloud9eleet Senior member

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    I went to the APC store here in Manhattan and tried the standards, those must have been the most hideous pair of jeans I have EVER tried on. Fit like a pair of waders, rise must have been 20" it seemed.
     
  5. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    It's more of an undercurrent you feel when reading their website/brochures, or when you visit a denim store with staff who are Nudie converts, you end up hearing the "gospel according to Nudie".
     
  6. Oltmann

    Oltmann Senior member

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    I agree w/ T4phage, and you don't have to look any further than their homepage. "The naked truth about denim." "Watch how a pair of Nudie Jeans are made in the film The Fine Art of Denim." I wonder if they use scientology in their manufacturing process, because that stuff sounds like cult-talk. I guess I just think it is creepy to anthropomorphize a garment. Want a link?
     
  7. ringring

    ringring Senior member

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    I understand what you mean. It doesn't really bother me too much. You read far more fluff every month when picking up a regular fashion mag like Vogue. I quite enjoyed the film [​IMG]
     
  8. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    I like the film as well. It was well-done, it really glorifies the creation of denim, although I could have sworn I remember them using open-end yarn spinning in the movie.? Blech.
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Again, not all jeans fit everyone. Most jeans fit me because I apparently either don't care enough or have a fit model's lower body. Personally, I love the fit of Da'mage and Earnest Sewns, and the cut of Seven bootcuts, but others have found them less than satisfying. the APC standard is best for thin, tall guys with no asses (essentially, Frenchmen). 5EPs are a little better, but if you are looking for a pair of selvedge jeans for the everyman, Nudies will work best for most guys, as will Corpus, if you like their details (although the latter seems to have cut their summer line really small.)

    Personally, the only jeans I haven't heard people complain about are Paper Denims. They have the LTD and ICN that will fit everyone, and the GTO for a slimmer fit. Paper Denim forever. Now, if they could only get Scott Morrison back so he could beat all their collective heads into re-releasing the washes that worked so well instead of the seriously messed up washes they are using nowadays (bring back the ICN Clone and the GTO 1-year, if nothing else, at least.)
     
  10. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    With regard to the Nudie as religion debate - I like the jeans, but the company hype pisses me off. And the increasingly ubiquitous S backpocket design is beginning to grate my nerves too. Give me Corpus, which is not so ubiquitous a brand, APC (no logoing, no hype to speak of), or Paper Denims, which have until lately kept their jeans understated and the backpocket design unobtrusive and chilled out, instead....
     
  11. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    I've heard a lot about APC off the forum recently, so there may not be hype, but there's certainly buzz...
     
  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    This is a non-commercial site of enthusiasts. Of course there will be buzz. But the Nudie hype is a concerted commercial effort on the part of the company.
     
  13. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    Well, right. I meant off the forum, though, in other outlets - Washington Post, IIRC, and some mag or another. I don't mean to imply that any of the buzz here (or about APC in general) is manufactured.
     
  14. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    LA Guy, not trying to get in a heated debate here at all, but I have to disagree with many points of your post. S-logo ubiquitous? Maybe here (I know there are at least 6 of us who rock Nudies). Maybe on some guys on SuperFuture. Definitely on MyNudies. I expected to see at least one pair when I was in LA last time, but saw nothing, even after having been to American Rag and Fred Segal, and some trendy (and way too expensive) Thai restaurant... hardly what I would call ubiquitous, really. I've seen 3 people in total with Nudies in San Diego (one of them was a girl.). The Nudie hype bothers me too, but it's more the converts spoken of here than the brand itself. Their marketing and hype is just enough so that you get people showing up on Styleforum and Superfuture asking, "what about Nudies? I heard if you don't wash them for 6 months, they because magical items of god," and that's the only thing that can be annoying to me. However, it's understandable, they wouldn't know any better if they've never heard it mentioned before. I think everyone is making way too big of a deal of the "hype," when if you leave the internet and hit the streets, they're anything but hyped. On cloud's post, you're right - not all jeans fit everyone. And obviously, the new standards are going to fit hte tall and thin better, because they're unisex, which should mean they should be suitable for women, as well as the fact that they have a 35" inseam. I would seriously doubt that they could even be qualified as the "most hideous pair," however - it just seems impossible for me to see them looking THAT bad on anyone. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, however. I saw a guy at school wearing APCs (no, I didnt ask, but they are pretty easy to spot out anyway, if you know what to look for - i.e. an amazing cut) - they looked so good I wanted to come home and start wearing my New Standards again. I might buy a pair of the "hipster" jeans that apparently are made for men but are only sold in the NY store, which the name people keep dropping on superfuture but no one EVER tells me what they're like (I've asked twice).. [​IMG] PDC is a very difficult brand to complain about, because their jeans are simple and they're marketed towards people who aren't necessarily picky about weight, quality, details, etc. I've seen (and participated in) critiques of PDC jeans and there are definitely things to complain about.
     
  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Paper Denim was never intended to be a denimheads jean, except at the inception of the brand (I was there).  Yes, there are things to criticize, but fit is generally not one of them.  There is a fit for just about everyone. I've participated in the bashing of pretty much every major brand out there (there are probably some obscure brands I haven't heard of, even on specialized forums like the superforums, so I won't be too arrogant about this), but Paper Denim, despite recent down turns in denim quality, washes, etc... I still consider to be the best of the *mainstream* jeans, despite some very, very ill advised washes and changes in their lineup (I have a feeling that they are self destructing like the Lakers, my poor Lakers.) And you *know* I am care about denim quality, details, etc...

    Nudie - I've seen them all around LA and NYC.  They are definitely the brand de jour, which is not necessarily a bad thing.  

    Now, A.P.C. is a different beast altogether.  The fact is that there are essentially 2 fits, and they either fit you, or they don't.  The Standard (or New Standard) looks great on thinner, taller guys, but can look pretty crappy on even a slightly overweight guy.  The Anglaise (I haven't seen the "hipster" nor the Rescue, so I can't comment) looks good if you like the baggier look sometimes, which I do.  So if you don't have the body for the jeans, you are pretty much screwed.  If you do, they are great (I personally really like them).  

    My point was that you can probably find Paper Denims that will flatter most body types.  APC's, not so much.

    And as for the whole Nudie phenomenon, I guess that time will tell how things go.  Truth is, neither of us can say for sure, one way or the other.
     
  16. Geowu

    Geowu Senior member

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    I love APC style. Understated, classic, quality, fit. That's something hard to find.
     
  17. benchan

    benchan Senior member

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    agnes b sports line offers something visually similar to APC, I am not sure about their cut though.

    To echo shoreman's comment, I am a tad surprised by the resurgence of APC jeans recently. If my memory served me correctly, outside of American brand, APC along with Diesel, Replay and Soviet were once considered some of the most "trendy" and desirable jeans in Early 1990s. Except for Diesel, others didn't have much staying power. APC jeans had some loyal fans, but remains pretty obscure, and many view it as a brand for the niche market only. And now it is back, receiving ink from many fashion website/mag/forum.
     
  18. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

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    Like the Ripper wash? (Exempt are the really cool weird stuff, like the jeans with the shadow of a fence on them.)

    I'm also still a fan of PDCs, but I'm curious: when did Scott Morrison leave the company and why? Also, has anyone been to the Earnest Sewn store in the Meatpacking District? I'm gonna try and check it out either today or tomorrow.
     
  19. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    (LA Guy @ April 28 2005,17:16) I still consider to be the best of the *mainstream* jeans, despite some very, very ill advised washes and changes in their lineup (I have a feeling that they are self destructing like the Lakers, my poor Lakers.) Â
    Like the Ripper wash? (Exempt are the really cool weird stuff, like the jeans with the shadow of a fence on them.) I'm also still a fan of PDCs, but I'm curious: when did Scott Morrison leave the company and why? Also, has anyone been to the Earnest Sewn store in the Meatpacking District? I'm gonna try and check it out either today or tomorrow.
    The wierd fence shadow idea was one of Scott Morrison's, if I remember correctly. As for his leaving the company, I think that there was an internal dispute (small companies started by friends, like bands, often break up) about the direction the brand was going in, and this lead to his leaving. Curious note is that Paper Denim's early literature is not at all unlike Nudie's - emphasis of authenticity, anecdotes about Cott Morrison admiring the look of real workers jeans, the authentically faded detailing, etc... Much of this remains in print on the website (www.paperdenim.com). This reads strikingly similar to Nudie's self promotion. And the hype around Scott Morrison's Earnest Sewn literature is similar. Remember that Nudies have the raw selvedge denim, but that the majority of their washes are not raw or just rinsed...
     
  20. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    In the US, only Diesel really made a lot of headway.  Replay got in, and remains a bit player, but never got the popularity of Diesel.  These days, both Soviet and Replay seen to me poised for comebacks that never quite make it.  RA:RE seems to have taken up Replay's niche, and Soviet, well, seems rather directionless.  APC's genius was that it limited it's distribution to its one stores or mail order, and never changed their basic cuts or washes (none), and thus maintained an allure of longevity and exclusivity .  Maybe it was coveted, but it was not in stores.  The company's expansion into select retail outlets only began in 2001 or thereabouts, and then only into boutique stores (for the longest time, in LA, only KBond on Beverly had the jeans).  And the company gets editorial press, but does no print advertising (at least, none that I've ever seen.)  I really don't think that APC can be put in the same category as any of those other companies.  The long term business plan was much, much, different from the very beginning.
     

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