Best tailor for a bespoke or MTM jacket in Rome?

[SeamasterLux]

Are you still using ripense? I saw an old thread where you posted about him. His prices have increased significantly from those days.

Roman, and Milanese tailoring is very similar in general, with Roman being a little bit softer & still having a squarer shoulder. But the silhouette is very similar, from what I’ve seen, as compared to Naples which is totally different.

And it makes sense, as caraceni was a very influential house in both Rome and Milan & started from the same man. At any rate, your ripense stuff looks great.

When I want Italian tailoring, he’s now the only one I’m buying from. Still love what he does. Otherwise I order a lot of WW Chan due to the price point.

 

[SeamasterLux]

Are you still using ripense? I saw an old thread where you posted about him. His prices have increased significantly from those days.

Roman, and Milanese tailoring is very similar in general, with Roman being a little bit softer & still having a squarer shoulder. But the silhouette is very similar, from what I’ve seen, as compared to Naples which is totally different.

And it makes sense, as caraceni was a very influential house in both Rome and Milan & started from the same man. At any rate, your ripense stuff looks great.

Here’s a more recent one.

And another one

 

[mellowllama]

A big thanks to everyone who's given me suggestions in this thread.

Ultimately I did decide to go with Ripense. I'm having him make me a casual jacket for traveling, in a 280 gram wool with elbow patches and a collar that can be turned up and worn in the Korean style, in the manner of a traveling jacket Andrea made for himself some time ago.

I've had two fittings and will have a third on Monday. We haven't yet decided on the shoulder style.

Here he's showing me the leather for the elbow patches against the fabric

 

[Corson]

Here he's showing me the leather for the elbow patches against the fabric

View attachment 2141929

Probably it's going to be a great jacket. But isn't that leather a bit too shiny finish for elbow patches? Suede, which is generally used for that, has a more matte appearance.

 

[jonathanS]

Here’s a more recent one.
View attachment 2141921

And another one

his suit appears to have a more square shoulder than his jacket. But, of course, I am only judging on photos.

He seems like a good tailor.

A big thanks to everyone who's given me suggestions in this thread.

Ultimately I did decide to go with Ripense. I'm having him make me a casual jacket for traveling, in a 280 gram wool with elbow patches and a collar that can be turned up and worn in the Korean style, in the manner of a traveling jacket Andrea made for himself some time ago.

I've had two fittings and will have a third on Monday. We haven't yet decided on the shoulder style.

Here he's showing me the leather for the elbow patches against the fabric

View attachment 2141929

Congratulations on your decision. I’m sure it’ll turn out great!

 

[mellowllama]

Probably it's going to be a great jacket. But isn't that leather a bit too shiny finish for elbow patches? Suede, which is generally used for that, has a more matte appearance.

I originally proposed either suede or corduroy but he said he prefers this type of leather, and that the color is an exact match for the fabric, so I yielded to his advice.

 

[Despos]

I originally proposed either suede or corduroy but he said he prefers this type of leather, and that the color is an exact match for the fabric, so I yielded to his advice.

The cloth is light weight and the leather this tailor chose is more compatible with the cloth as it’s soft and supple for an application that requires the most flex over the elbow which is in almost constant movement.

Putting the leather choice aside, I don’t get putting elbow patches on a light weight cloth of this weave. Seems out of place to my sensibilities.

please post a picture or two when you receive the jacket

 

[mellowllama]

my use case is that I travel non-stop for years at a time (seven and counting) with only carry-on luggage, so I have room for just one decent jacket. I'm concerned about wearing it out. (I'm not sure how well-founded this concern is.)

 

[othertravel]

You might be able to call it a ‘Technical Blazer’, which is a marketing term for sport coats with unorthodox leather details. Seen a few brands do that.

 

[comrade]

View attachment 2141711

To give you a flavour of Ripense, that’s rather a typical SB suit of his.
I love his DBs too.

You've convinced me. That cut is sublime, although I'd need more room.

 

[mellowllama]

korean collar with camicia shoulder. the underside of the collar has leather matched to the elbows. the collar is the same as Andrea used for one of his own jackets from some time ago, you can kind of see it here

 

[mellowllama]

andrea posted it to his instagram with better photos (and photos of the collar turned up)

 

[Concordia]

I devised a similar design with Steven Hitchcock. Only there are 4 buttons in front, equally-spaced, instead of 6. The notch of the collar also had to come down a bit from the usual so I could wear it like a Mandarin collar.

Otherwise, it spends most of its day looking like a 3-button with a relaxed, high stance, which makes driving or sitting about with the button closed much easier.

 

[mellowllama]

I devised a similar design with Steven Hitchcock. Only there are 4 buttons in front, equally-spaced, instead of 6. The notch of the collar also had to come down a bit from the usual so I could wear it like a Mandarin collar.

Otherwise, it spends most of its day looking like a 3-button with a relaxed, high stance, which makes driving or sitting about with the button closed much easier.

yeah, my collar can't actually be closed all the way to the top button. the collar would need to be cut much lower for that