Best tailor for a bespoke or MTM jacket in Rome?

[mellowllama]

I'll be in Rome for a while and I was thinking of getting a jacket made while I'm here, either bespoke or MTM. Searching the forum I found a thread by SeamasterLux suggesting Sartoria Ripense might be a good option. They currently charge €3300 for a jacket (minus VAT refund for non-EU residents). I stopped by and spoke with the owner briefly. It appears to be a friendly and well-run business.

I'm wondering if there are other options I should consider before I decide whether to go ahead with the idea. I wouldn't want to pay more than that, so no Kiton or similar. From what I can tell by reading threads regarding results from at least one of the lower-priced MTM tailors here (Lanieri), at the moment I am not particularly enthusiastic about that option.

I've noticed that there are tailors in Naples that are somewhat cheaper (e.g. Solito, Amato, Zizolfi, and Formosa). Naples isn't that far away by train, so if Naples is definitely better I might consider going there.

 

[circumspice]

Milena La Montagna is now in Frascati -> https://www.instagram.com/sartorialamontagna/

I spent a chunk of time in Rome a few autumns ago, but pretty sure she was around Napoli back then.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I'll be in Rome for a while and I was thinking of getting a jacket made while I'm here, either bespoke or MTM. Searching the forum I found a thread by SeamasterLux suggesting Sartoria Ripense might be a good option. They currently charge €3300 for a jacket (minus VAT refund for non-EU residents). I stopped by and spoke with the owner briefly. It appears to be a friendly and well-run business.

I'm wondering if there are other options I should consider before I decide whether to go ahead with the idea. I wouldn't want to pay more than that, so no Kiton or similar. From what I can tell by reading threads regarding results from at least one of the lower-priced MTM tailors here (Lanieri), at the moment I am not particularly enthusiastic about that option.

I've noticed that there are tailors in Naples that are somewhat cheaper (e.g. Solito, Amato, Zizolfi, and Formosa). Naples isn't that far away by train, so if Naples is definitely better I might consider going there.

You mention Rome and Naples but they’ll be pretty different. Would try to narrow down whether you’re after Roman tailoring or if you’re after Neapolitan tailoring first.

Check out the ongoing bespoke projects thread.

 

[mellowllama]

Milena La Montagna is now in Frascati -> https://www.instagram.com/sartorialamontagna/

I spent a chunk of time in Rome a few autumns ago, but pretty sure she was around Napoli back then.

Did you have her do anything? She's about an hour away from me by train, so a bit closer than Naples.

You mention Rome and Naples but they’ll be pretty different. Would try to narrow down whether you’re after Roman tailoring or if you’re after Neapolitan tailoring first.

Check out the ongoing bespoke projects thread.

That's a good point. According to the guy who runs it, the Ripense house style is not typical Roman. They usually do rollino shoulders, but sometimes camicia. But it's not Neapolitan either. They don't generally do 3-roll-2 jackets. (Here's their instagram, which shows a few examples.)

I'm leaning toward a camicia shoulder, which would mean maybe Rome isn't the right place to shop if I don't go to Ripense. However I figured it wouldn't hurt to poke around a bit.

Thanks for pointing me to the bespoke projects thread, that looks quite helpful.

 

[comrade]

Check out Simon Crompton's articles on:

Permanent Style

Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Roman tailor

www.permanentstyle.com

Permanent Style

Sartoria Ripense: Visiting Andrea Luparelli in Rome

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[comrade]

Also, apparently Battistoini does bespoke. They are on Via Condotti- where else?
Just stop in there, even if you have other bespoke plans. For me, who has shopped
in NYC, London, Paris, Vienna, it is one of the most beautiful stores I have ever
visited.

https://www.battistoni.com/bespoke/

 

[circumspice]

Did you have her do anything? She's about an hour away from me by train, so a bit closer than Naples.

No. I poked around a bit on Roman options at the time, but nothing seemed super compelling to me.

 

[jonathanS]

To me, the best tailor in Rome is, without question gaetano alosio. I have no idea how much he charges.

Of course, you have caraceni Roma & ripense as well that are well known & regarded.

From my conversations with tailors, alosio is universally regarded as an outstanding tailor, to the point where they’ll mention him by name, without being from Rome. Perhaps I would visit him before I hype him up on the forums haha.

 

[mellowllama]

To me, the best tailor in Rome is, without question gaetano alosio. I have no idea how much he charges.

Of course, you have caraceni Roma & ripense as well that are well known & regarded.

From my conversations with tailors, alosio is universally regarded as an outstanding tailor, to the point where they’ll mention him by name, without being from Rome. Perhaps I would visit him before I hype him up on the forums haha.

Alosio and Caraceni are great suggestions. Unfortunately it looks they're a bit over my budget, closer to €5K for a jacket.

 

[leapyourbar]

has to be Roma? Could always hop on a quick train to Napoli and go see my buddy Luigi Solito. He is amazing. *edit* 2500EU for a jacket, he might to 2,300 for cash..

 

[comrade]

Strong/structured shoulder:

Permanent Style

Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[othertravel]

Two MTM suggestions:

1. Zegna - MTM is much cheaper in Italy, especially if you can get VAT deducted. You're looking at 20-30% cheaper than in the U.S.

2. Tom Ford - Same as above. Considerably cheaper.

Edit: I'll add a third - Brioni.

 

[SeamasterLux]

To me, the best tailor in Rome is, without question gaetano alosio. I have no idea how much he charges.

Of course, you have caraceni Roma & ripense as well that are well known & regarded.

From my conversations with tailors, alosio is universally regarded as an outstanding tailor, to the point where they’ll mention him by name, without being from Rome. Perhaps I would visit him before I hype him up on the forums haha.

It’s a very distinctive style, Aloisio. Very academic and closer to Milanese/British tailoring. Never been my cup of tea but nice details ok his garments.
Sartoria Ripense remains the only good tailor for me in Rome and amongst the very best in Italy, and in Europe.

 

[SeamasterLux]

To give you a flavour of Ripense, that’s rather a typical SB suit of his.
I love his DBs too.

 

[jonathanS]

It’s a very distinctive style, Aloisio. Very academic and closer to Milanese/British tailoring. Never been my cup of tea but nice details ok his garments.
Sartoria Ripense remains the only good tailor for me in Rome and amongst the very best in Italy, and in Europe.

Are you still using ripense? I saw an old thread where you posted about him. His prices have increased significantly from those days.

Roman, and Milanese tailoring is very similar in general, with Roman being a little bit softer & still having a squarer shoulder. But the silhouette is very similar, from what I’ve seen, as compared to Naples which is totally different.

And it makes sense, as caraceni was a very influential house in both Rome and Milan & started from the same man. At any rate, your ripense stuff looks great.