Best MTM or bespoke options in NY?

[wozniak]

I went to NYC for a trip and got measured at Proper Cloth for MTM. I wanted to also go to Black Lapel but could not get a time to get measured there. Plenty of options in Chicago however where I work.

 

[epsilon22]

Rota mtm is 600 through the armoury - wow.

It's 650 before taxes if you stick with the Rota fabric books. I guess the free alterations is a nice bonus. The huge bummer is that the moment you step out of the Rota bunches, the upcharge is quite substantial (on top of my head something like 150, which puts the trousers at 800, there are probably better options from traveling tailors).

If you order straight from Rota online it'd be around 500, but you have to figure out the sizing.

Haven't tried via NMWA due to inconvenient hours (they only open weekdays 9-6, which perfectly coincides with my working hours). I imagine they'd fall somewhere between direct and The Armoury. I'm also not sure if they'd include post-delivery alterations.

I might try The Anthology next (I think just under 1k for bespoke, and around 700 for MTM).

Edit: wow, didn't know Dylan comes to the US now. Last saw him when he was still sharing space with KayJen, but his pricing was out of my budget back then.

 

[jonathanS]

It's 650 before taxes if you stick with the Rota fabric books. I guess the free alterations is a nice bonus. The huge bummer is that the moment you step out of the Rota bunches, the upcharge is quite substantial (on top of my head something like 150, which puts the trousers at 800, there are probably better options from traveling tailors).

If you order straight from Rota online it'd be around 500, but you have to figure out the sizing.

Haven't tried via NMWA due to inconvenient hours (they only open weekdays 9-6, which perfectly coincides with my working hours). I imagine they'd fall somewhere between direct and The Armoury. I'm also not sure if they'd include post-delivery alterations.

I might try The Anthology next (I think just under 1k for bespoke, and around 700 for MTM).

Edit: wow, didn't know Dylan comes to the US now. Last saw him when he was still sharing space with KayJen, but his pricing was out of my budget back then.

Why would you use anthology when Marco is a specialist in trousers?

I remember looking at rota via tie your tie in Florence, but I can’t remember the price.

The armoury is not, and has never been, a value proposition. They’re good but not good value.

 

[epsilon22]

Why would you use anthology when Marco is a specialist in trousers?

I remember looking at rota via tie your tie in Florence, but I can’t remember the price.

The armoury is not, and has never been, a value proposition. They’re good but not good value.

I wasn't aware of Marco previously, until reading your post. I'll look up his work and pricing.

 

[taxgenius]

Why would you use anthology when Marco is a specialist in trousers?

I remember looking at rota via tie your tie in Florence, but I can’t remember the price.

The armoury is not, and has never been, a value proposition. They’re good but not good value.

I did ask Marco for pricing on trousers using Drapers 4-ply and was quoted 850EUR.

 

[epsilon22]

I did ask Marco for pricing on trousers using Drapers 4-ply and was quoted 850EUR.

That's actually not too bad considering it's bespoke and mostly handmade. Though I guess it does cross the $800 threshold for import duties exemption, not sure what % that would add.

 

[JohnMRobie]

That's actually not too bad considering it's bespoke and mostly handmade. Though I guess it does cross the $800 threshold for import duties exemption, not sure what % that would add.

Based on when I've gotten hit on duties I usually factor in 20% for clothing.

 

[epsilon22]

Based on when I've gotten hit on duties I usually factor in 20% for clothing.

Does that include state taxes too?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Does that include state taxes too?

No state taxes on clothing where I live. Basically clothing is 10-18% depending on material and then a fee for DHL for processing it.

 

[tuna roll]

No state taxes on clothing where I live. Basically clothing is 10-18% depending on material and then a fee for DHL for processing it.

ouch... do you know if it's the same for shoes?

 

[jonathanS]

Based on when I've gotten hit on duties I usually factor in 20% for clothing.

20%

I’m disputing that with the them.

But in my experience, I don’t often get hit on the ones just over 800 - I get hit on the ones that are in the 3-4k range. Which always hurts more.

 

[tuna roll]

I better start monitoring plane ticket prices to Tokyo to pick up my Seiji Mccarthy comission in person...

 

[jonathanS]

I better start monitoring plane ticket prices to Tokyo to pick up my Seiji Mccarthy comission in person...

Everyone is different. I know if I tried picking up from kotaro in person, he’d say no because he has to report it for tax reasons to Italy (thus not charge me vat).

But everyone is different. Satoki kawai delivered in person & I obviously avoided taxes that way.

You might be able to just have seiji deliver it to you in person (just tell him you want him to look at it when he delivers).

Also, a friend of mine usually tells the tailor or customs agent it’s a sample & that’s taxed at a lower rate. I think closer to 5%.

 

[JohnMRobie]

20%

I’m disputing that with the them.

But in my experience, I don’t often get hit on the ones just over 800 - I get hit on the ones that are in the 3-4k range. Which always hurts more.

Depends who you get shipped to from. DHL, UPS and FedEx don't miss and they just return it to the sender if you don't pay within a week or whatever. Not sure how much there is to dispute. Just kind of is what it is. I just paid some this morning on shirts. 15% for duties, 1% for processing, $1.50 for a regulatory charge.

ouch... do you know if it's the same for shoes?

There's a code with a various % for everything. Shoes are between 7% and 20% if I recall depending how they're coded.

 

[jonathanS]

Depends who you get shipped to from. DHL, UPS and FedEx don't miss and they just return it to the sender if you don't pay within a week or whatever. Not sure how much there is to dispute. Just kind of is what it is. I just paid some this morning on shirts. 15% for duties, 1% for processing, $1.50 for a regulatory charge.

There's a code with a various % for everything. Shoes are between 7% and 20% if I recall depending how they're coded.

see above about my alleged “friend” - what can I say. I’m a red blooded meat eating American. I hate paying taxes, no matter what.