Advice on where to begin

[nbm]

First time poster, but lurked for months here before deciding to post.

I need a suit for a late June wedding in Serbia and am feeling a little overwhelmed with options in front of me.

Background on me: 38, live in NYC. I'm 6'1, 185 lbs, 33 inch waist, 42 jacket size typically. I work in tech, so I wear suits infrequently. That said, I'm getting on in years and my sense of style and wanting to communicate greater maturity has gotten me interested in investing more in classic menswear. I currently have one suit to my name, which I love, but is not particularly versatile - a dark aubergine suit from Richard Spencer. It would be my preference that I never wear a solid blue wool suit.

For this wedding, I'd like to get something a little more versatile, but still interesting. I'm finding that shopping in NYC is a blessing and a curse. Seemingly infinite options, many of them far acceding what I'd like to spend on something I will wear a few times a year.

So a few questions I would be grateful for guidance on:

1) Would a linen suit as my only "formal" suit be a mistake?

2) Where in NYC would be a good place to shop where I might find someone who will help educate me and spend time in a sales process? I have seen people here talk a lot about The Armoury, but it appears to be a bit out of my price range.

3) Are there any online shops that I should consider? Cavour looks interesting, as do some things from Spier and Mackay.

4) If I want something for occasions that request formal dress, am I basically confined to navy blue and dark grey? Would something like the Cavour mod 2 in glen check be appropriate?

Budget is $1500 for the suit.

If I've left out any important information please forgive me, would be happy to add any additional info that might help provide better guidance.

 

[notdos]

Linen, no.
Based on the fact you don’t have a lot of time, and you’re fairly average size, try SuitSupply. Solid color for your wedding.

 

[JJ Katz]

1) Would a linen suit as my only "formal" suit be a mistake?

A: Almost certainly. Go for a “tropical” wool.

4) If I want something for occasions that request formal dress, am I basically confined to navy blue and dark grey? Would something like the Cavour mod 2 in glen check be appropriate?

A: if you’re buying one (1) suit to express formality, go for charcoal grey or dark navy blue.

 

[nbm]

Thank you for the advice, I will get over my reluctance to go Navy and refocus my search around a navy blue suit in tropical wool. It does feel like I need a basic foundation here.

RE suit supply, I've been to one of their Manhattan locations once and found their sales staff to be pretty terrible, using pressure sales tactics and giving transparently bad advice to some of the customers. I will try another location and see if it was a localized issue, but it was a huge turn off.

 

[breakaway01]

Although you said that the Armoury is more than you’re ready to spend, I’d still suggest that you check them out. You’ll get good advice and a better sense for how to tell if a suit fits and whether the cut is flattering to you.

Agree that the SuitSupply sales associates aren’t trained to put people into a silhouette that most here would like, but if you know how a suit should fit you and can stand up for yourself, it’s a good value.

You could consider some texture to the fabric — e.g. a navy birdseye or nailhead, or a grey sharkskin for example. Agree that linen isn’t a good choice if you only intend to have one suit.

 

[circumspice]

How well does RTW stuff fit you? A 42 coat and a 33 trouser would imply a 9 inch drop, which may be hard to do in RTW - the trousers may need to come in substantially. You may be wanting to do something MTM - No Man Walks Alone might be a bit higher than you are looking to spend, but will come in below MTM at The Armoury.

 

[comrade]

Thank you for the advice, I will get over my reluctance to go Navy and refocus my search around a navy blue suit in tropical wool. It does feel like I need a basic foundation here.

RE suit supply, I've been to one of their Manhattan locations once and found their sales staff to be pretty terrible, using pressure sales tactics and giving transparently bad advice to some of the customers. I will try another location and see if it was a localized issue, but it was a huge turn off.

The San Francisco Suit Supply seems to be afflicted by the same malady.

 

[nbm]

How well does RTW stuff fit you? A 42 coat and a 33 trouser would imply a 9 inch drop, which may be hard to do in RTW - the trousers may need to come in substantially. You may be wanting to do something MTM - No Man Walks Alone might be a bit higher than you are looking to spend, but will come in below MTM at The Armoury.

I can't say that I have shopped for suits in a while, but when I bought my suit at Richard James they pulled a pair of pants from a different sized suit for me. RTW shirts are a mixed bag, I am 185 lbs and usually have to buy a large in casual button downs. I both row and sport climb, so my shoulders/upper back tend to cause issues - tight on top, billowing in the mid section.

 

[Father Style]

Don’t fret. This is a much easier process than it initially appears. You’re 6’1”, 185#. It’s not going to be hard to find something you look good in.
I’m a similar size to you and, as basic as it sounds, I have always had luck with Brooks Brothers and Charles Tyrwhitt. Are they top of the line? No. Will they get you tons of fawning likes on SF? No. Are they totally serviceable and not that expensive? Yes!
My advice is to go to the 7th ave Charles Tyrwhitt and try on the Slim and Classic fit jackets and see what fits you best. You said you have built shoulders so the Classic might be more comfortable for you. Don’t worry about the drop from your chest measurement to your trousers. That’s an easy adjustment when you get the suit tailored afterwards. As everyone already said, go for a regular mid-weight wool in a dark navy. If you want to express yourself, do it with your tie or pocket square. Since this is a wedding, err on the side of NOT drawing too much attention to yourself. You’re a tall fit man in a classic dark suit. Trust me, you’ll get plenty of positive attention.
The suit will cost you well under $1k so you’ll have plenty of dough left for some white and light blue spread collar shirts and a handful of ties.
You’ll obviously need to take the suit to the tailor after purchase for the normal nips and tucks but they’ll be easy and inexpensive.
On a side note, I tried Spier and Mackay once and the 42 contemporary fit jacket was like a sausage casing on me. I would have had to lose easily 20 pounds to make it fit properly (so, SM might not work for you).
Have fun at the wedding!

FatherStyle.com