Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    How do I know if I'm feeling some kind of lining in a suit jacket or if its actually canvas?
    'Lining' is the smooth silky stuff (usually made of rayon/bemberg/etc) which is visible covering parts of the inside of a coat, used to add warmth and to make it slide on easier. Lining is attached with pleats and ease to give it a certain amount of looseness. 'Canvas' is rougher fabric which is used to add body to the fabric, attached without ease to the rear side of the main fabric, usually (but not always, if there's minimal or no lining) enclosed and not visible from the inside. Any non-fusible used to add body in this way is referred to as 'canvas', even though many of the fabrics used may not technically be canvasses. If you're asking how to tell the difference between a fused and a canvassed coat front, then this has been discussed countless times, but the most common method is the 'pinch test' (do a search).
     
  2. Slopho

    Slopho Senior member

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    ^ Thank you, I know how to tell the difference between fused and canvas, but I was recently feeling some suit jackets and I couldn't tell if what I was feeling in the middle was lining or canvas.


    Edit: My issue was that I'd find some HF suits priced in the same range but some would be fused and some "felt" full canvas. I always though canvas suits were much more expensive.
     
  3. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    Rookie tailoring questions...

    My closest OTR jacket size is 38S. According to a pre-SF fitting at J Press, it's actually good fit for OTR, requiring only a minor adjustment to one sleeve. But I have trouble finding 38S in my price range, while 38R teases me with their availability.

    So: generally speaking, is it advisable to purchase an OTR 38R and get it altered to something more like a 38S? How much might a decent tailor charge for such alterations? Should I shop for 38S only?


    It's really going to depend on the manufacturer. Some 38R will be easy to alter to fit a 38S. But some won't be becuase of button height, pocket location, etc. The best policy is to take the item to a tailor you trust and ask his/her opinion.
     
  4. mr.orange

    mr.orange Senior member

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    Rookie tailoring questions...

    My closest OTR jacket size is 38S. According to a pre-SF fitting at J Press, it's actually good fit for OTR, requiring only a minor adjustment to one sleeve. But I have trouble finding 38S in my price range, while 38R teases me with their availability.

    So: generally speaking, is it advisable to purchase an OTR 38R and get it altered to something more like a 38S? How much might a decent tailor charge for such alterations? Should I shop for 38S only?



    yea bro just get as close to your size as you can and let a tailor do the rest. if your making a lot of changes to the jacket then it can get pretty pricey though. here's your plan; find a reputable tailor where you live (one that speaks english so you can understand garment jargon) and inquire about prices and fit.
     
  5. mr.orange

    mr.orange Senior member

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    It's really going to depend on the manufacturer. Some 38R will be easy to alter to fit a 38S. But some won't be becuase of button height, pocket location, etc. The best policy is to take the item to a tailor you trust and ask his/her opinion.

    +1
     
  6. JamesX

    JamesX Senior member

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    ^ Thank you, I know how to tell the difference between fused and canvas, but I was recently feeling some suit jackets and I couldn't tell if what I was feeling in the middle was lining or canvas.


    Edit: My issue was that I'd find some HF suits priced in the same range but some would be fused and some "felt" full canvas. I always though canvas suits were much more expensive.


    You can just pinch somewhere there is no lining. Like the Lapel. And it is pretty obvious if it is the lining since the lining is the inner surface. Canvas is also much more rigid than lining - which is usually silk.
     
  7. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    I asked this in the wrong forum on accident before:

    I know you are supposed to match the general color of your belt to your shoes, but that the color ideally should not match your shoes exactly. Also, I have been told that your belt should be a darker shade of said color than your shoes, is this generally true?

    If so, I am finding a very difficult time finding a dark burgundy to match my Alden No. 8 PTBs without just buying the cordovan belt directly from Alden (pretty much the closest match, but some say that too "matchy matchy" is a bad thing). I have found several sources around and on SF that have nice burgundy belts, but not in a darker shade than the Alden No. 8.

    Is there a possible darker shade than the Alden no. 8 and is going with the cordovan belt actually a poor choice?


    Don't worry about it. Get something burgundy-y and it's probably fine. The distance between shoes and belt is (standing) quite big, the light falls differently etcetera.
     
  8. Timmbo

    Timmbo Senior member

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    I'm looking for a dark brown grenadine tie (a la http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-ga...ilk-tie-6.html) but I'm on a tight (student) budget. Where can I find a cheaper alternative? Everywhere I look only have 'knit' ties which have square/flat ends, which I'm not interested in. I'm in the UK if this makes things easier!
     
  9. erk

    erk Senior member

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    Outer Shoe measurments... what are they really good for, and where are they taken?

    Presumably, one can have several great fitting shoes with significantly different outer measurements.


    bump... anyone?[​IMG]
     
  10. Cant kill da Rooster

    Cant kill da Rooster Senior member

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    I'm looking for a dark brown grenadine tie (a la http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-ga...ilk-tie-6.html) but I'm on a tight (student) budget. Where can I find a cheaper alternative? Everywhere I look only have 'knit' ties which have square/flat ends, which I'm not interested in. I'm in the UK if this makes things easier!

    Join the search my man. Grenadines cost more for a reason.
     
  11. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    2 questions for consideration -

    1) Can a shirt with side gussets be slimmed down easily?

    2) Ideas on what to wear with a grey glenplaid shirt?
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Outer Shoe measurments... what are they really good for, and where are they taken?

    Presumably, one can have several great fitting shoes with significantly different outer measurements.


    This is all true. Shoe measurements like this are useless.
     
  13. onix

    onix Senior member

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    Outer Shoe measurments... what are they really good for, and where are they taken? Presumably, one can have several great fitting shoes with significantly different outer measurements.
    Outersole measurement is quite useless in general since shoes have different lasts and constructions. That said, for English shoes (mostly goodyear construction), their sizing can be confusing (for example, Church's sometimes use UK sizing, sometimes US sizing, so your 9E Church's can be different, same goes for Edward Green for American market, 8.5/9E can means US 8.5D/UK 9E or US 8.5E/UK 9F). In this case, the outersole measurement comes in handy, since people can compare with their own shoes that have the same construction/similar last. There are many other instances that these measurements are good for. For example, some Italian shoes are sized oddly, they can fit 2 size bigger, this measurement will let us know what sizing system they're using. For example, an 8D Bontoni with width measurement of 4.5"+ is clearly about 2 size up, so I am not gonna buy them. For a perfect fit, one just have to visit the store and try them on.
     
  14. dashroc

    dashroc New Member

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    Quick question, would the shoe in this image be considered a chisel toe or a square toe?[​IMG]

    Thanks!
    [​IMG]
     
  15. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Quick question, would the shoe in this image be considered a chisel toe or a square toe?[​IMG]

    Thanks!


    Chisel toe
     

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