Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. corneliusparky

    corneliusparky Senior member

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    Who makes a decent fitting nylon bomber jacket that isnt $400?
     


  2. GMMcL

    GMMcL Senior member

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    New to UK suits; please forgive.

    Chester by Chester Barrie RTW (made in China): Worth $150?
    Austin Reed, pick stitched: Worth $75?
     


  3. crider8883

    crider8883 Well-Known Member

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    I posted this picture of me wearing a suit in the WAYWRN and the guys answer that there are too many things wrong to start with it so... as I need advice and don't want to insist over there, though about posting it here for critic. I can see (now) that the coat looks big in the chest area and the panst are long. The shirt is really too big for my actual size (I lost a lot of weight after buying it) though it's been tailored so I know I need a new one. Something else I can't see ? Should I have the coat tailored or is too big for that? I still like the tie so please don't tell me it's wrong, too [​IMG] Thanks! [​IMG] [​IMG]
    1. Hacking pockets. Don't like them. 2. Buttoning point is WAY too high. Result is that the quarters open in a way making it look like you've got a huge gut. 3. It looks somewhat fitted in the shoulders, but the chest is way too big and the the skirt flares out. 4. Pants are waaaay too long. 5. Lapels are too small for me. Critiques inherently incorporate the attitudes of the people who write them, because they're intended to "fix" your problems in the way that best pleases the person writing the critique. You could be trying to achieve an entirely different style than what I like. And that's fine. So you need to be sure to take advice like this with a grain of salt. (I don't MIND that tie, though. Wouldn't wear it, but its not horrible).
     


  4. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    I posted this picture of me wearing a suit in the WAYWRN and the guys answer that there are too many things wrong to start with it so... as I need advice and don't want to insist over there, though about posting it here for critic.

    Look.
     


  5. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    I posted this picture of me wearing a suit in the WAYWRN and the guys answer that there are too many things wrong to start with it so... as I need advice and don't want to insist over there, though about posting it here for critic.
    I can see (now) that the coat looks big in the chest area and the panst are long. The shirt is really too big for my actual size (I lost a lot of weight after buying it) though it's been tailored so I know I need a new one.
    Something else I can't see ?
    Should I have the coat tailored or is too big for that?
    I still like the tie so please don't tell me it's wrong, too [​IMG]

    Thanks!

    https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_mXAvreTZgJc/TdvTjym95bI/AAAAAAAAAi8/xPqWAxKn5nU/comunion.JPG[/IMG

    [IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_mXAvreTZgJc/TdvXj7IPQCI/AAAAAAAAAjU/gJVBkXtKCis/comunion2.JPG[/IMG[/I]

    Step 1: pull up your pants. It looks like they have a much higher rise than the ones you're used to, meaning you'll have to wear them higher. That will balance the proportions much better and help the pants drape correctly and to a better length.

    The lapel is fine.

    Buttoning point is high, and there's not enough material in the skirt. Your hips are larger than the ones that the jacket is cut for, and that's pushing the quarters open. But the chest is a tad too large, and the shoulders a little wide.

    I think it boils down to that suit just being a really poor cut for your frame. It looks like it's built for a tall and straight frame, and that's not the impression I get of your body.
     


  6. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Senior member

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    Having locked down a charcoal and navy suit, I am looking to buy a third. I was wondering if a light-med grey herringbone would be appropriate for the summer and not too flashy? (see the first here: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_n-lCcZxYYQ...RRINGBONES.jpg) I know I do not want pinstripes, and I know that I want something lighter in shade/tone for the warmer months. Would this be SF approved for a third suit?
     


  7. Rob01IV

    Rob01IV Member

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    Thinking of having a suit made in either navy or black. Where can I purchase good light weight fabric in south Florida that will not break my pocket? Any suggestions welcomed.
     


  8. lemmywinks

    lemmywinks Senior member

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    Clarks Desert Boots with grey trousers. Yay or nay? and if yes, what color?

    I'm working this summer. I'm familiar with the boss and while I have gotten a pair of black cap toe oxfords, I feel like wearing them everyday is a bit contrived and costumey since I'm only 17. I plan on wearing casual button ups/oxfords to work on most days with jeans/chinos and I'm going to wear either my black adidas sambas or my desert boots to work most of the time.

    I'm thinking about wearing my grey trousers as well but my desert boot are grey so I don't want them to clash. I want to buy another pair of desert boots anyway so does anyone have any suggestions on the grey trouser + desert boot combination?

    I'm thinking some type of brown suede but I don't really know.
     


  9. Espresso

    Espresso Senior member

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    I wanted to repost and ask people about nice, comfy socks? Sorry if I missed it. I spend a lot of time on my feet, and have been looking for something that doesn't leave a PRINT on my calves.
     


  10. Scotty

    Scotty Senior member

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    At a guess: shoulders a bit too wide, button-point a bit too high, jacket a little bit too long, trousers far too long. It's not that bad though, is it?

    agreed, body seems ok, but shoulders and arms are to billowy- bulk up my man. ditch.........the............tie............now



    im not the expert but it seems the pants are a bit long and baggy in the crotch, the jacket sleeves a bit short and the button stance is funny, the jacket just looks off (this could because of how you are standing, good pics are hard to get) and possibly too long. sorry bro it comes from love.


    Jacket length is fine. Any shorter and it wont cover your rear and you will look ridiculous. Sleeves are a bit too short.

    I think the jacket is about an inch too long. Could just be bad posture though.

    1. Hacking pockets. Don't like them.

    2. Buttoning point is WAY too high. Result is that the quarters open in a way making it look like you've got a huge gut.

    3. It looks somewhat fitted in the shoulders, but the chest is way too big and the the skirt flares out.

    4. Pants are waaaay too long.

    5. Lapels are too small for me.

    Critiques inherently incorporate the attitudes of the people who write them, because they're intended to "fix" your problems in the way that best pleases the person writing the critique. You could be trying to achieve an entirely different style than what I like. And that's fine. So you need to be sure to take advice like this with a grain of salt. (I don't MIND that tie, though. Wouldn't wear it, but its not horrible).


    Step 1: pull up your pants. It looks like they have a much higher rise than the ones you're used to, meaning you'll have to wear them higher. That will balance the proportions much better and help the pants drape correctly and to a better length.

    The lapel is fine.

    Buttoning point is high, and there's not enough material in the skirt. Your hips are larger than the ones that the jacket is cut for, and that's pushing the quarters open. But the chest is a tad too large, and the shoulders a little wide.

    I think it boils down to that suit just being a really poor cut for your frame. It looks like it's built for a tall and straight frame, and that's not the impression I get of your body.


    Well, that's a lot of answers, thanks you all [​IMG]

    Now, what can be done? Would suppressing waist make it worse or better ? Maybe I can take and inch from the bottom, also.

    I talked to the shop and they would send it to the factory for the alterations (it's a local designer) so maybe i can ask for something more complicated.

    I assume this suit won't be perfect (not even near) but I in real life it looked somehow better (my posture in that picture is really off) and it's not like if everybody was laughing at me for it or something so, although my next would be more carefully selected, for now I need this to be the best it can.

    Thanks again and sorry for monopolizing this thread, next time I'll use the fitting thread (I wasn't aware of it).

    I'll add that this suit is pre-SF, since then I've bought more fitting garments. I love SF [​IMG]
     


  11. erk

    erk Senior member

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    Outer Shoe measurments... what are they really good for, and where are they taken?

    Presumably, one can have several great fitting shoes with significantly different outer measurements.
     


  12. thesecondprize

    thesecondprize Senior member

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    Rookie tailoring questions...

    My closest OTR jacket size is 38S. According to a pre-SF fitting at J Press, it's actually good fit for OTR, requiring only a minor adjustment to one sleeve. But I have trouble finding 38S in my price range, while 38R teases me with their availability.

    So: generally speaking, is it advisable to purchase an OTR 38R and get it altered to something more like a 38S? How much might a decent tailor charge for such alterations? Should I shop for 38S only?
     


  13. Slopho

    Slopho Senior member

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    How do I know if I'm feeling some kind of lining in a suit jacket or if its actually canvas?
     


  14. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Senior member

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    Having locked down a charcoal and navy suit, I am looking to buy a third. I was wondering if a light-med grey herringbone would be appropriate for the summer and not too flashy? (see the first here: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_n-lCcZxYYQ...RRINGBONES.jpg)

    I know I do not want pinstripes, and I know that I want something lighter in shade/tone for the warmer months. Would this be SF approved for a third suit?


    Anyone?
     


  15. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    I asked this in the wrong forum on accident before:

    I know you are supposed to match the general color of your belt to your shoes, but that the color ideally should not match your shoes exactly. Also, I have been told that your belt should be a darker shade of said color than your shoes, is this generally true?

    If so, I am finding a very difficult time finding a dark burgundy to match my Alden No. 8 PTBs without just buying the cordovan belt directly from Alden (pretty much the closest match, but some say that too "matchy matchy" is a bad thing). I have found several sources around and on SF that have nice burgundy belts, but not in a darker shade than the Alden No. 8.

    Is there a possible darker shade than the Alden no. 8 and is going with the cordovan belt actually a poor choice?
     


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