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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. ImaPro

    ImaPro Senior member

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    The general consensus is to not buy a jacket that its too small.... but if it fits everywhere except the shoulders/back is it possible to make it bigger? I wouldn't mind paying a couple hundred to get it done considering the jacket itself its at a very huge discount and its quite unique.If possible:

    Would there need to be an obvious fabric panel across the back/back of the collar?
    Or could it be done by adding it to the shoulder/sleeve seam?
    Any online tailor recommendations? Given I could send one jacket that fits since there aren't great tailors in my area.


    Thank you
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2013
  2. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Don't do it. Taking the waist in a touch is one thing, but once you start messing with the proportions of the jacket shoulders and collar, in my experience it tends to be a one way ticket to "this jacket is fucked".
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    For enough money, most things are possible. But some things cost a fortune, and yield highly dubious results. It sounds like that may be the case here.

    Maybe. Obviously, if the shoulders/back must be made larger, there has to be additional fabric. But I couldn't say whether the fabric must take the form of a panel across the back/back of collar. I suppose that depends, in part, on the construction of the jacket, the nature of the alterations, and the skill of the tailor.

    Probably a bad idea, which would lead to the aforementioned highly dubious results.

    If you are determined to have this work done - and that's probably a mistake, mind you - you'd be crazy to do it via mail order. This sort of work cries out for in person fittings. (Sending along a jacket that fits is not likely to prove to be an adequate substitute for an in person fitting. Not if you want the work done well.) (Over the past month or two, I've seen multiple questions about obtaining mail order alterations by sending along one's measurements, or sending along an article of clothing that does fit, to use as a template. I'll refrain from, yet again, explaining why this is seldom the best way to do things.)

    If there aren't any great tailors in your area, go travel to an area where there are great tailors. And understand that you may have to travel there a second time, as a single fitting may not quite suffice.

    Seriously, unless this jacket is insanely special, it's hard to believe it's worth this effort. And if it is that special, the museum where it ought to be on display would likely prefer it in unaltered condition.

    Upshot? Don't buy jackets that are too small in the shoulders and back, figuring that you can get them made larger. It's almost never the smart move. No, not even if the jacket is selling at a huge discount, and you really like how it looks. There are always other jackets out there to be had for huge discounts, which look really great, and which are not too small. Buy one of them.
     
  4. ImaPro

    ImaPro Senior member

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    Thanks for the detailed response. I will pass, this is just asking for trouble.
     
  5. eh5678

    eh5678 Member

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    May 24, 2013
    Not sure if this has been solved yet but ~

    I found one in Macy's very recently. Paid exactly $100.

    Granted it was Macy's brand (Alfani), very impressed thus far.
     
  6. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    Location:
    East Coast
    Shipping from the USA to Austria - Getting from Point A to Point B without getting into a bureaucratic mess:

    I had some problems after recently shipping a pair of shoes for repair back to Austria (from my home in the US - I shipped via USPS Priority) - The local post in Austria tried to hit the retailer with a very big tax (maybe VAT) upon receipt of the item. They just can't over the fact that the retailer is not purchasing the item, it is simply an item that has already been purchased by an American and used in the US and is now being shipped back to Austria for repair. For information - I marked the customs form as a "Gift" and added additional insurance, estimating the package value at $800.

    The retailer refused to pay the tax on principal (as it was completely inappropriate), refused the delivery from Austria Post and the item was returned to me.

    I'm shipping the shoes back to Austria tomorrow and just looking for any recommendations. I am planning to send them again via USPS and mark them "Return/Repair" without any additional insurance. If anyone has any additional guidance I am all ears. Is there a threshold for package value that can create an issue when shipping - i have to list an approximate value? Any other red flags i should watch out for?

    Thanks in advance.

    Mike147
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2013
  7. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Well, technically it wasn't a gift, was it? It was an item being shipped for repair purposes. But in any case...

    I know virtually nothing of Austrian import/export, customs, etc. But I've got to believe that there's some form or documentation or somesuch, which can be filed or filled out in some way, which will permit an item to be shipped back to a company in Austria, from overseas, for purposes of repair, and which then lets the item to be shipped back to the owner without a huge tax hit.

    Common sense dictates that such a policy be in place. Anything else would be ridiculous even by government standards, and that's saying something.

    I do not know precisely what the form in question might be called. I do not know exactly which government entity in Austria could help you. But I'm nearly certain that such a form exists, and that there's a government entity in Austria which can explain just what you ought to do to avoid any problems. Get on the phone, or online, figure out what you need, and do it. I doubt whether it'd take more than 15 minutes of your time to sort this out.

    From a website I just stumbled across, after a few seconds of searching:

    ::begin quoted material::

    For further assistance please contact the Austrian Customs authorities directly. They will provide the latest information about customs regulations and export-import procedures.

    Austrian Customs contact information

    Address:
    Hintere Zollamtsstraße 2b
    1030
    Vienna
    Telephone: +430151433-0
    Website: http://english.bmf.gv.at/Ministry/_start.htm

    ::end quoted material::

    Also, fwiw, the phone number of the Austrian embassy, in Washington, DC, is (202) 895-6700. And you can call M-F, 9-5.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2013
  8. gurkirand

    gurkirand New Member

    Messages:
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    May 12, 2013
    Im new here and im not sure whether i should post this here but it seemed the best place. I purchased a blazer last week from Brad Goreski's copious thing because i needed a flashy blazer for around 200-300. He was selling a Gucci blazer with metallic threading throughout. Im very pleased with it, however i just wanted to know what Gucci Bowtie is. In the inside of the blazer there is the Gucci tag of course and then underneath another one which says bowtie. Is that a lesser version or is it just an extra tag. I know mr goreski enjoys wearing bowties so... maybe he asked for it. Anyway if you have any idea thanks. Also just wanted to say this website is amazing! Really glad i joined.
     
  9. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    This.

    Trying to avoid customs duties by writing "gift" was silly. If you'd written the truth, something like "goods returned to country of origin for repair", they shouldn't have been liable anyway. But when you send a "gift" of shoes to a shoe company, only the most dim-witted customs official is going to see that as anything but a dodge.

    Best talk to them and explain your error.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2013
  10. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

    Messages:
    232
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2009
    Location:
    East Coast
    



    I need to clarify my question here - if anyone has actual experience in shipping to proxies or retailers in central and eastern europe - I would ask you to please take a look. Just looking for tips from people with experience in shipping in and out of the region. I know that others have had this issue before. Thanks, Mike147
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2013
  11. theh00d

    theh00d Senior member

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    Feb 11, 2012
    Location:
    Bay Area
    Where can I get the less expensive dress shirts for the best value in terms of quality/fit?
    Just for reference I'm tall lanky guy.
     
  12. ImaPro

    ImaPro Senior member

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  13. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    My bargain dress shirts tend to be from Lands' End. Particularly on sale (frequent) and/or with a coupon code (also frequently offered), they can be quite affordable. Under $25/shirt wouldn't be at all uncommon.

    Perhaps not the best shirts available regardless of price, but they're often more than satisfactory.

    Many styles from which to choose. If you have any uncertainty regarding which size, style, color, etc., to buy, buy a bunch of 'em. Then return the unwanted ones to your local Sears store, for an easy refund.

    Unlike you, I'm not lanky. However, I know that LE offers various dress shirts in a more tailored (as opposed to traditional) fit. And often in "tall." So worth a try, I should think.

    Somewhat more expensive options might be Brooks Brothers (my default choice) and Charles Tyrwitt. Charles Tyrwitt often runs sales which bring the price of a shirt down to about $40. Brooks sales aren't quite as common, and they're seldom as low as $40 per shirt, but they're by no means rare. I assume there will be a Fathers Day sale next week.

    In all cases, spending an extra few dollars on minor alterations to your shirt can be worthwhile. (Or not. It really depends on how well the shirt fits without the alterations, and exactly what sort of fit you prefer. But it's at least something to keep in mind as an option.) I'm not talking about major shirt surgery, you understand. Just relatively simple, minor stuff, such that even after spending a few dollars on alterations, the shirt remains fairly inexpensive.
     
  14. jawboneofa

    jawboneofa Senior member

    Messages:
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    Apr 30, 2011
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Hey guys, just had the heel on a pair of Allen Edmonds fixed up. The rubber was coming off on both heels, so I took them to my cobbler to get that replaced.When I got home, as I was putting them away I noticed the shoes are extremely unbalanced. When the heel is flat, the soles are off the ground, and when the soles are flat on the ground, only the very front of the heel is touching the ground. See the pictures below for what I mean. And this is with shoe trees in the shoes.

    This isn't supposed to happen right? I'm planning on taking them back to the guy to have him figure it out, but I wanted to make sure I'm not being overly anal first.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. zen91

    zen91 Member

    Messages:
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    May 25, 2013
    I have a suit pant that I want to re-cut. It's a slim fit pant that fits me quite well but I want it to be skinny, not just slim fit. Is it possible to take it to a tailor and specify how you want the pant to be re-cut? What tailors would you recommend? I am willing to pay up to $300 for it.
     
  16. BioShenanigans

    BioShenanigans Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2013
    I signed up on this site to ask you fashion experts if you can pinpoint the brand/model of this black jacket:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Pictured above is what Andrew Garfield wore in the movie "The Social Network". If anyone can pinpoint the make of this jacket I would reeally appreciate it. I really like the look of it.
     
  17. pnin22

    pnin22 Senior member

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    Nov 16, 2009
    Location:
    San Diego
    

    I've had the legs slimmed for $20 at a good tailor (make sure they slim both seams on each leg). The waist, seat and rise can also be made "skinny" for not much more.
     
  18. drjsl22

    drjsl22 Active Member

    Messages:
    33
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2011
    This is my first shirt I have purchased at proper cloth, I am about to send it back for the alterations I can get, but am not quite sure what measurement to change to fix this. I was thinking to narrow the yolk, which would bring in the shoulders, and reduce the material there that folds over. Does this seem right? The chest measurement cannot go any smaller, as it is just large enough to where it does not pull at the buttons. Thanks for the help in advance!
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2013
  19. Jake103

    Jake103 New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    May 14, 2013
    Hi so I just bought my first suit for a wedding and i wanted something slim. I bought an extra slim Bar III suit from macys. The wedding is in less than a week so i had to purchase something fast but when i wore it at home it didnt seem to fit as well as i thought. Any suggestions on altercations or thoughts?



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

    Messages:
    5,346
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    Mar 31, 2010
    When is the next Paul Stuart sale? I may be able to get the chukka they wouldn't let me exchange for last time. Thanks
     

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