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Ambrosi Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ambrosi, Apr 14, 2011.

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  1. nioh

    nioh Senior member

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    Single pleat has been my default since day one, you'll not be disappointed. It adds a nice, moderate fullness for the thigh and works very well with a typical Ambrosi style taper.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks, @nioh That is what I'm counting on.

    I've found the best fit for any clothing is never too extreme either way (tim/full, wide/narrow, long/short). I enjoyed pleats back in the 80's. Time to give them a go once again. But this time not quite so full. :)
     
  3. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Forward or reverse, G? I've gotten single forward pleats on all my pents except for a corduroy pair and love 'em.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    "Forward pleats were always the thing. Forgive me, I know you’re Italian, but reverse pleats are just too damn Italian. They make you look like a pimp." --Charlie Davidson

    (Can't remember if mine from Ambrosi are forward or reverse, but I think they're reverse :embar:)
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015
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  5. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    M, that option never even came up in the discussion. It was just,

    SA: "Pleats?"

    PSG: "Yes. How about single".

    SA: "Ok. Did you gain weight since your last pants? You look heavier"


    Maybe if I'm lucky he will give me the pimp reverse pleats.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Personal opinion here but forward/regular pleats work and look best when you are willing to wear a higher rise and have a smaller hip/seat circumference. Higher rise than a plain front and a bit higher than reverse pleats.

    Reverse look cleaner IMO and are more flattering if you have a bit of belly or wider hips. Regular pleats are generally paired with on seam side pockets which are my least favorite.

    Hard to beat reverse pleats and a well made single pipe besom front pocket for the way they fit and look. The besom pocket pretty much disappears and won't bow away from the body. It lays very flat and stays closed.

    Pleated trousers are like double breasted jackets. If not cut, fitted and proportioned well, they look like crap.
     
    3 people like this.
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not Ambrosi, but I love my single, what I call forward pleat. Been getting them on everything with a higher rise, no back waist band and split back. I got them this way because I like how it looks, the feel is very freeing so that is a bonus. Wearing jeans feels absolutely awful after wearing these style trousers.

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Quote: I twist new clients arms to get pleated trouser and this is the response I usually hear.

    Even clients who say they would "NEVER" wear pleats have said the same as you after wearing them.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015
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  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    You can always wear pleated jeans.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015
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  10. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

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    Do you have a picture of this? I'm trying to visualize how it looks. Is it horizontal?
     
  11. Patrick R

    Patrick R Senior member

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    Poorly lit and hanging upside down:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    But then I'd stand out even more than when I do actually wear jeans.
     
  13. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    PB, you might try the Levis 522. Fok tipped me off to jeans w/ a wide upper and slightly tapered legs. The Levis are a pretty cheep version and so very comfortable. They have a high rise, something like 12.5" front, 17" back, on size 33". I got the gray pair w/ 1% lycra. Wore them on 24 hr trip to Asia and have never been more comfy. Tempted to buy them in other colors, like the dark blue one w/ 30% wool, 70 cotton, but I've recently gotten a hemp pair from Luxire and ordered a couple from Lawless, all based on those 522s.

    I think I've only ever specified single forward pleat or flat front, hem width, and belt loops or side adjusters.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
  14. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    PB, your shirt sleeves are looking rather long....
     
  15. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Or the cuff looks loose.
     
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, I just think jean in this manner look weird, almost like costume period pieces. I also can't imagine wearing a high waist without also wearing suspenders, which is something really too costumey for jeans, imo. I just brave the low rise tapered leg. The only pair of jeans I own are the Levi 1978 501's in black.




    It was actually a brand new shirt when the pic was taken so it hadn't shrunk up yet. Also, I have since gotten smaller suspenders so the clasps aren't so high up.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
  17. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Not if you hang out with the kind of people who wear pleated jeans.
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't hang out with the kind of people that generally wear pleated anything. Maybe skirts.

    I do live in Williamsburg, so I guess I could technically get away with old timey pleated jeans...
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
  19. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I.e., the right kind of people.

    I think had a pair of pleated jeans around 86-90. I know I had pleated denim shorts back then. Pretty sure they were single pleat. Probably reverse. Those were my gigolo days of jr. high.

    Seriously though, try the 522s. They don't look weird. I think they're the perfect CM cut. Don't tell Fok though. Actually, they're cut about like Ambrosi pants now that I think about it.
     
  20. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I agree and prefer reverse pleats myself to forward, even though I shouldn't.
     

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