Paul Sargent (formerly Alfred Sargent) Appreciation Thread

[shoesforever]

@gmehra I don't own any G&G, but I've handled some and read a lot in the forums. G&G used to be made in the Alfred Sargent factories in the beginning, before getting their own place. From my understanding, they had their own section and own machines.
Alfred Sargent took some inspiration from G&G after they moved out. If you compare the AS exclusive and the G&G, I would say that G&G lasts probably are narrower and maybe a bit more elongated. They have a more Italian inspired last and look. They also have better cuts of the leathers they have and the finish is better. Their waists are also tighter, which is more similar to bespoke shoes and more difficult to make. Especially in their Deco line. Both have closed channel soles, but the G&G also has a fiddle waist which requires more skill. The main difference is in the details, which means that they take longer to make, which again means a higher price. What we do need to remember though, is that Alfred Sargent is capable of making a range of different qualities. Everything from plain open channel soles like the makes from for example Herring shoes and all the way to Alfred Sargent Handgrade line. The Handgrade line is probably on par with G&G. To illustrate the different soles, I added pictures. G&G is at the bottom

 

[gmehra]

Great and thanks for the pictures! Yes Alfred Sargent seems to have quite a range of lines and the handgrade looks like great VFM. The olive suede oxfords look almost identical to the G&G sole. Interesting that they don't have a single stockist in the US other than making some shoes for J Crew I believe? , must be a reason...

 

[rbhan12]

Great and thanks for the pictures! Yes Alfred Sargent seems to have quite a range of lines and the handgrade looks like great VFM. The olive suede oxfords look almost identical to the G&G sole. Interesting that they don't have a single stockist in the US other than making some shoes for J Crew I believe? , must be a reason...

I recall some old stockists writing they dropped them because of questionable business practices or something. No Man Walks Alone used to stock them, might be a good idea to ask them privately why they dropped AS.

 

[clee1982]

NMWA never carried the highest range, thought AFPOS at certain point did. As far as NMWA goes pretty sure it's just poor sale. People either bought Vass or paid more for GG (or that's what I would have done)

 

[patliean1]

The sole on those Alex Boots looks very similar to G&G - can anyone comment on the overall difference between the two makers?

G&G uses marginally better leather and their lasts (at least for me) have an overall better fit. With that said, I think AS is a better overall value. You're getting 85% off G&G for half the price.

 

[clee1982]

Who can you order handgrade from these days? Think exclusive range is pretty accessible

 

[muddy250]

Who can you order handgrade from these days? Think exclusive range is pretty accessible

Here: https://www.shoehealer.co.uk/alfred-sargent/as-hand-grade

EDIT:
Richard at Shoehealer confirmed what you guys said, AS hand grade is gone and no plans to re-introduce it.

 

[Northampton21]

These are the Sargent Handgrades I've collected over the years. Amazing quality of course... leather and craftsmanship is stunning. Shame they're not made currently however lots of great makers out there as being discussed..

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[muddy250]

Moores out and about again. God I love this pair of shoes

 

[Northampton21]

Moores out and about again. God I love this pair of shoes

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Yes indeed Moores are awesome!

 

[shoesforever]

@Northampton21 Gorgous handgrade shoes!

@muddy250 Great shine and great pics as always

 

[muddy250]

Yes indeed Moores are awesome!

@muddy250 Great shine and great pics as always

Thanks!!

 

[Northampton21]

@Northampton21 Gorgous handgrade shoes!

@muddy250 Great shine and great pics as always

Thanks

 

[clee1982]

These are the Sargent Handgrades I've collected over the years. Amazing quality of course... leather and craftsmanship is stunning. Shame they're not made currently however lots of great makers out there as being discussed..


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How's sizing on handagrade (say vs. CJ, don't own any AS of any range)

 

[Meyboom]

What intrugues me with AS is that they are one of the last English shoemakers that hasn't professionalized in recent times. No real website, no stores, no online shop... When Chay Cooper was in charge things were changing but since he left for C&J chaos returned. But I must admit there's a certain charm to it as well since they are still producing great shoes...