Ambrosi Napoli

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

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So what you are saying is a man shouldn't bother wearing a SC or PS if it doesnt fit perfectly and isn't expertly matched? How about being dressed appropriate? That has no weight? Sometimes I feel ones effort regardless of the execution is worth a lot more than one just wearing a sweatshirt because it fits better or the color constrasts with the sweatpants better.

If you're going to wear a suit/tie/PS when unnecessary, you'd better do it well. Otherwise you'll look like a clown. The harder one tries without corresponding competence or talent, the more clownish.

It's nice to think effort matters, but life and aesthetics aren't like playing children's soccer.

Originally Posted by Manton

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I think the Ambrosi/Napoli default style is flat front.

I think it is patently quite the opposite.

Originally Posted by alliswell

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Even a Macy's black suit, satin-solid-tie-with-matching-PS is better than this.

This sentiment is what governs WAWRN. The results speak for themselves.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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I think it is patently quite the opposite.
Really? Neither Salvatore nor his father wear pleats and neither does Luigi. I had to ask for pleats. I got the impression from walking around that flat front was way more common.

Originally Posted by Manton

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Really? Neither Salvatore nor his father wear pleats and neither does Luigi. I had to ask for pleats. I got the impression from walking around that flat front was way more common.

Are you sure about Salvatore and Antonio? In all the pictures I have of them, they're in reverse pleats. Maybe flat fronts are a trend right now.

But there are two sides to Naples' tailored clothing culture: the old, traditional school and the more fashion-oriented, self-aware type. During my visits, the latter always proved more visible. But it is also a changing animal. The former is what I'm talking about when I surmise that reverse pleats are standard. In other words, if you ask Solito or Ambrosi to use all classic Neapolitan details, without a word more, I can almost guarantee they will automatically do reverse pleats. Rubinacci won't even ask you for your opinion on the matter, though you can feel free to press the point.

R will do reverse by default? Some of their customers who post here get flat.

Originally Posted by Manton

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R will do reverse by default? Some of their customers who post here get flat.

I think Nay has single pleats, but they were by special request. Matt and I both have reverse pleats, unless I'm mistaken.

Matt's are flat.

The thing is, the mass produced sweatshirt makes the tailored pants look cheap, so I wouldn't see the point. I'd suggest a nice knit if you'd want to go for this casual kind of look. But hey, if this combination made you feel good and comfortable then go for it, ofcourse.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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I think Nay has single pleats, but they were by special request. Matt and I both have reverse pleats, unless I'm mistaken.
Mine are reverse and I didn't ask for that, nor did they ask my preference.

If anyone else had posted that picture, would there even be a debate?

By this pic in the park, we are apparently getting a glimpse of what Foo considers a stylish rendition of "dressing down." Clearly, this is his steeze. I don't think it is horrible, myself. But I also don't think it is successful either in comparison to other casual looks. I think it is incongruous, because despite the more casual fabric of the pents, they are still dress/office pants, and pairing a sweatshirt with dress pants AND brogues is something I would do only if:

1. I dressed business casual on a Friday (or any day for that matter) for work (i.e., Ambrosi office pents, brogues, and dress shirt).
2. Went to happy hour and got obliterated.
3. Went to the home of a random hot chick and banged her multiple times.
4. Woke up with a serious hangover and in putting on my clothes, realized my dress shirt was essentially destroyed (buttons ripped, stained and still damp from spilled alcohol and possibly other bodily fluids).
5. Then I reached for Brown sweatshirt slung over a chair that happened to fit.
6. Snuck out of the chick's pad and went to the park for a picnic and photo session.

Are you all really saying that you never wear sweatshirts? If not, are you saying that when you do wear sweatshirts, you make a conscious choice not to pick from your 'good' pants?

It's exactly that sort of double life that I find tasteless. Good clothing should be worn, not merely displayed for pretension's sake. How much of what's posted on this forum is just costume?

I don't think you understand the criticism here. I mean your pants look rather like dress pants then casual because they are cuffed. Wearing a sweatshirt with a huge logo just doesn't work with those. But like I said you seemed quite comfortable and even more relaxed then usual in that photo.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Are you all really saying that you never wear sweatshirts? If not, are you saying that when you do wear sweatshirts, you make a conscious choice not to pick from your 'good' pants?

It's exactly that sort of double life that I find tasteless. Good clothing should be worn, not merely displayed for pretension's sake. How much of what's posted on this forum is just costume?

Do not get.

The distance between the formality level of a sweatshirt and tailored gray flannels is large and too large to make the combo work. That's what people are saying. There is no double life at play here just a recommendation for the judicious mixing of like with like.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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you saying that when you do wear sweatshirts, you make a conscious choice not to pick from your 'good' pants?

Yes. If I'm wearing a sweatshirt, I'm wearing them with jeans, chinos, etc, not pleated flannel pants.