The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Btw the movement is exposed because its a tourbillion (I know some Ts are hidden, but its pretty standard to show it off).

Originally Posted by gazman70k

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Unfortunately I find the interlocking sub-dials, exposed movement and single hands make the overall look a complete mess. Can't fault the finishing or the movement but it just doesn't do it for me.
+1

Do not want. So many great AL&S designs but this one is a train wreck IMO.

Yes, not my favourite AL&S.

So much hate, but I remain in love.

So, what did you guys like from SIHH?

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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^ Kari's doing his own movements now? Nice.

I still prefer the Lange though. Move aside Konrad der Grosse - this could be my new grail

Yes he is. He found that it was too difficult to maintain an ongoing supply of the vintage Persues movement.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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Btw the movement is exposed because its a tourbillion (I know some Ts are hidden, but its pretty standard to show it off).

Dude - you must think I am a watch newbie

My point is that the overall execution, or the combination of design choices, makes this a very messy dial. One can have an exposed dial to draw attention to the tourbillon but in most cases, that is the central feature and the overall design draws your attention to it. Unfortunately, the approach Lange has taken here recalls the disasters that Zenith produced under Thierry Nastaf.

There is just too much happening here.

Originally Posted by gdl203

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+1

Do not want. So many great AL&S designs but this one is a train wreck IMO.

Get the Kari then. I like what he has done with the dial. At the moment, I'll be happy with the new Panerai 372

Originally Posted by gazman70k

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My point is that the overall execution, or the combination of design choices, makes this a very messy dial. One can have an exposed dial to draw attention to the tourbillon but in most cases, that is the central feature and the overall design draws your attention to it. Unfortunately, the approach Lange has taken here recalls the disasters that Zenith produced under Thierry Nastaf.

I kinda think it works for them though, as the dial layout reminds me a bit of the Lange 1 (realize this is techinically a RL derivation).

Anyhoo, looks like the majority disagree . Watch preferences seem to be very subjective. I think most agree on what constitutes an attractive suit, but almost everyone has a different grail.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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So much hate, but I remain in love.

So, what did you guys like from SIHH?

Every piece by Panerai (especially the 372 and 382), the Urwerk UR-110, Lange ultra thin (really love this) and the Gruebel Forsey Invention piece 2 (yes the dial is a little bit of a train wreck but in a nice way). Other notable collections for me include Cartier, especially the Calibre de Cartier range. its nice to see the resources of Roger Dubuis being put to good use. The Cartier Dual Time Zone piece is very nice.

My dislikes for this year:

Audermar Piguet - Nice attempt at updating the Royal Oak Offshore but I think its off the mark. Its almost regressive in nature unlike Panerai's new 47mm case.

Everything by JLC - the luxury "military" watch is just a bloody stupid concept. There is no heritage or credibility behind the Navy SEALs master compressor series. I'd hate for the silly alarm movement to give away a SEAL reconnaissance team's position because it went off at the wrong time. DUMB DUMB DUMB!

^ Interesting. Agree with you on the Panny's and the Sax ultra-thin, but I like the JLC Navy Seals and dislike the Gruebel Forsey. Dislike the whole GF collection really. Same w/ Urwerk. Haven't focused on Cartier, but will check it out.

Thoughts on the Zeitwerk Striking Time? Not a fan - ridiculous case size, and would rather buy a regular Zeitwerk.

I agree on the PAM line-up. I almost regained hope in the brand. First good year IMO since they introduced the 1st in-house movement and started heading down the toilet. Not a fan of ceramic Radiomirs but everything else is pretty impressive in a retro kind of way.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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^ Interesting. Agree with you on the Panny's and the Sax ultra-thin, but I like the JLC Navy Seals and dislike the Gruebel Forsey. Dislike the whole GF collection really. Same w/ Urwerk. Haven't focused on Cartier, but will check it out.

Thoughts on the Zeitwerk Striking Time? Not a fan - ridiculous case size, and would rather buy a regular Zeitwerk.

GF invention piece 3 in platinum is my ultimate grail tourbillon watch, if I had the cash to burn. I love the overall execution of the time display, especially the interlaid hour and minute markers along with the beautiful engraving. I wished they'd make one without the tourbillon.

You can probably tell that I am not a fan of haute complications like tourbillons and minute repeaters. I can appreciate them though. But ultimately, my interest is highly focused on time only pieces. There is a purity about that and I get excited when a watch maker attempts to change the way we read or interpret time. Hence you will see a rather consistent theme in what gets me excited. I find tourbillons and minute repeaters to be redundant functions. The most functional complication for me would be the GMT.

That will probably answer your next question on the Zeitwerk striking time. I like the digital display concept. This was a rage a few years ago but I think Lange's execution was great. I had little interest in the striking time based on my comments above. However, its an interesting evolution of the Zeitwerk. I do like the way Lange has found a harmonious way to display the striking hammers. Agree on the case size. IMHO, Lange should never have broken the 39mm barrier.

Originally Posted by gdl203

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I agree on the PAM line-up. I almost regained hope in the brand. First good year IMO since they introduced the 1st in-house movement and started heading down the toilet. Not a fan of ceramic Radiomirs but everything else is pretty impressive in a retro kind of way.

So have I. For me, the 372 represents the quintessential modern day Panerai - classic 1940's vintage design supported by an in-house movement. I love the Lumiradio hybrid 47mm case and have no issues with the Plexi. I also loved the fact its not a domed crystal like the 127. There was just too much distortion. This was the piece I was hoping for since Panerai announced the move towards in-house movements.

As for the ceramics, they are a PVD-like maintenance time bomb about to happen. Just remember not to spill any alcohol on them

Originally Posted by gazman70k

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Unfortunately I find the interlocking sub-dials, exposed movement and single hands make the overall look a complete mess. Can't fault the finishing or the movement but it just doesn't do it for me.

For the asking price, I'd rather go for Kari Voutilainen's new piece - the in-house movement Observatoire.

Agree and agree.

I generally don't like Roman numeral dials, but this Lang & Heyne has a pretty remarkable dial. Pointer date, deadbeat center seconds, and power reserve. Amazingly, all in a 40mm case.

Only +/- $75K as well.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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I still prefer the Lange though. Move aside Konrad der Grosse - this could be my new grail

Each to their own but I must say that the Konrad der Grosse and the Pour le Mirete are two completely different watches all together. I think you can find both to own a special spot on your grail shelf.

I love the Richard Lange series and the spirit of which it was created. It is only natural that more complications are featured over time but I still love the first. But unfortunately, not enough and I have since moved on

Re: SIHH 2011

I've never been a big JLC fan but the Master Ultra Thin Moonphase is a good looking watch. The reverso tribute 1931 and reverso with the enamel dial (is the model called email?) are beautiful. I'd never considered a reverso before but I'd go after one of those 2 if the opportunity presented itself.

The VC Worldtimer is a beaut.

IWC's newest version of the handwound portuguese looks great. It's essentially the same as last year's model but without the different color subdial. If only it weren't 44mm.

Thanks for those who filled me in on those info on NATO straps, I really appreciate it.

I'm glad to see all of you have great looking watches, I'm sort of a beginner so I'll be around to learn from you guys. i will also be asking some questions that might consider to be common sense by some of you guys, haha.

Originally Posted by KtownGreg

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Common classic with unique twist

Great strap, which model?