Anthony Delos shoes and related subjects

gorgeous shoe -that purple tree completes the deal -If you are not opposed to wearing purple sox -in combination with the brown of the shoe it is quite rich!

Originally Posted by ajv

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And something new, lots of pics, enjoy :


Adrian, the galosh oxfords look really really wonderful. Wear them in good health!

Originally Posted by ThinkDerm

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why the sole so barren though?

oops,

that's the way it should look like, when done right...

Originally Posted by ajv

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And something new, lots of pics, enjoy :




















Adrian

these are sweet! the only thing i would have liked to have seen is the suede part without the seam as in JLP heritege, apart from that the other seem is of perspnal taste, thro' i would have prefered it moved to the inside heel

Originally Posted by fritzl

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oops,

that's the way it should look like, when done right...

yup i agree, thro i might have dyed the sole to match the edge trimming esp on black shoes

Originally Posted by fritzl

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oops, that's the way it should look like, when done right...
If I understand you correctly, I don't agree. That outsole is very clean and well done...and that cleanliness is a real tribute to the maker. But it has also been either scraped or sanded and it does not appear to have had any wax applied after scraping. That means that the sole is far more vulnerable to soil and water than it would be if it were waxed and buffed. As absorbent as a sponge, as who should say. Sometimes there's a good reason for doing things one way or the other...

I love the latest balmoral post.

I do agree with Luk-cha (Ay329 swallows hard and proceeds)...that I prefer the throat area to have no stitching like on this G&G pic: http://centipede.web.fc2.com/gandg3.html

Originally Posted by DWFII

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That outsole is very clean and well done...and that cleanliness is a real tribute to the maker. But it has also been either scraped or sanded and it does not appear to have had any wax applied after scraping.

That means that the sole is far more vulnerable to soil and water than it would be if it were waxed and buffed. As absorbent as a sponge, as who should say.

i agree. it''s just nicer to see it in the virginity. i like to wax and buff it myself.

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

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I love the latest balmoral post.

I do agree with Luk-cha (Ay329 swallows hard and proceeds)...that I prefer the throat area to have no stitching like on this G&G pic: http://centipede.web.fc2.com/gandg3.html

I like those G&G shoes apart from a couple of things. Really dont like those clunky toe tips and the way the back is stitched, the Delos back is neater. The all black finish looks very smart and is probably a special request , not the normal look. Both are very fine shoes

Originally Posted by ThinkDerm

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why not?

Originally Posted by lasbar

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I don't like them too....

Originally Posted by Kuro

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why not?

I think a seamless back looks good on a one cut, and even if it is personal taste, I like to see a nicely done seam. Some also argue that it is easier to have a perfect fit with a seam at the rear

Originally Posted by Son Of Saphir

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No nail show at bottom of heel,
where it gone?

If done properly and depending on the shoe-type, there is no need. And they could be hidden

Originally Posted by DWFII

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If I understand you correctly, I don't agree.

That outsole is very clean and well done...and that cleanliness is a real tribute to the maker. But it has also been either scraped or sanded and it does not appear to have had any wax applied after scraping.

That means that the sole is far more vulnerable to soil and water than it would be if it were waxed and buffed. As absorbent as a sponge, as who should say.

Sometimes there's a good reason for doing things one way or the other...

Totally agree with you. In this case the shoes have to be worn several times in dry conditions, to break them in, and to harden the sole. Once that is done, the sole will either be hard compressed enough to be able to go through wet conditions or they will be waxed and buffed.


And thanks for the general compliments, Anthony will certainly appreciate it.

Adrian

Originally Posted by ajv

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I think a seamless back looks good on a one cut, and even if it is personal taste, I like to see a nicely done seam. Some also argue that it is easier to have a perfect fit with a seam at the rear

It shouldn't affect fit as the leather, no matter how it's stretched, is stretched over the same last. Seamless back will make pattern-making very difficult, and many shoe makers will not do it.

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

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I love the latest balmoral post. I do agree with Luk-cha (Ay329 swallows hard and proceeds)...that I prefer the throat area to have no stitching like on this G&G pic: http://centipede.web.fc2.com/gandg3.html
I like balmorals myself...I'm considering making myself a pair. But there is a reason for the stitching. The black pair at the centipede link has eyelets. The eyelets hold the various layers of the facings together. There may be three or four layers to reinforce the eye holes against stretching and distortion caused by the laces. The stitching on the throat on the Delos serves the same purpose. Just saying...

Originally Posted by fritzl

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it''s just nicer to see it in the virginity. i like to wax and buff it myself.

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

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....I prefer the throat area to have no stitching like on this G&G pic: http://centipede.web.fc2.com/gandg3.html

Those G&G shoes have that very same reinforcement bar tack, but it is difficult to see in the photograph.



English shoemakers tend to stitch them quite discreet, while Delos and other continental makers
(Vass for example) turn them into a feature and "embroider" them with a row of knots, rather like a buttonhole.

An alternative to the bar tack would be a tiny "tongue", (vintage EG), which serves
the same purpose of protecting this stress-point, preventing accidental ripping.

Originally Posted by sully

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Really dont like.....the way the back is stitched, the Delos back is neater.

I think in both pairs, the back is a bit clumsy (I hate "dog's ears", I think they are always clumsy).

In the Delos, have the seam in the bottom section as is, but cut the two suede "wings" of the upper section in a single piece
so it wraps around the heel without a seam. That would avoid the ugly dog's ear.

Originally Posted by maomao1980

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It shouldn't affect fit as the leather, no matter how it's stretched, is stretched over the same last. Seamless back will make pattern-making very difficult, and many shoe makers will not do it.

I would tend to disagree with you, regarding the fit and I also think from various discussions with shoe-makers, that the durability can be affected if not done perfectly (talking about seamless obviously).
I do agree with you for the second part of your post.

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

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I think in both pairs, the back is a bit clumsy (I hate "dog's ears", I think they are always clumsy).

In the Delos, have the seam in the bottom section as is, but cut the two suede "wings" of the upper section in a single piece
so it wraps around the heel without a seam. That would avoid the ugly dog's ear.

I for one love those "dog's ears" and even insisted on having them on the next pair I will get from Anthony.
But as you imply, it's more a queston of taste than anything else. As we say in french "les coups et les douleurs.........."

Adrian