Mystery Budapest Shoemaker

Cary Grant · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by gdl203

I was actually referring to the shoes recently posted on this page. That said, that monk is a straightforward copy of a U last Vass monk with different hardware. Even that shoe tree looks exactly like the ones Vass has made. However, the leather looks cheapo

I don't the leather comment- I se the wrinkle but it just looks worn to me.

At any rate- none of us can judge to well without having our hands on them. I want MOAR choices in shoes not less. These look like a welcome entry into the field.

They'll all be too wide for my feet anyway lol

gdl203 · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

At any rate- none of us can judge to well without having our hands on them. I want MOAR choices in shoes not less. These look like a welcome entry into the field.
Well we can still comment on pictures, right? Or do we all need to STFU until we handle each and every one of these shoes?

I didn't say more choices was not welcome - just commented that these look somewhat off to my eye. I'm sure others will think they're the bee's knees - that's great.

Don Carlos · Apr 1, 2010

Am I the only one holding out some SF-misanthropic hope that the mystery Budapest shoemaker turns out to be Allen Edmonds?

fritzl · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by gdl203

Even that shoe tree looks exactly like the ones Vass has made.

it's likely the same supplier. i'll ask him in two weeks...

luk-cha · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by Fuuma

Those are niiiice

come off it, the budapester is a copy from Vass's book and the other thing is a copy from Foster and Sons bespoke samples

i just find all these examples poorer lesser quality of classics and not even a good homage to the originals

i's with G on this

fritzl · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by luk-cha

come off it, the budapester is a copy from Vass's book and the other thing is a copy from Foster and Sons bespoke samples

i just find all these examples poorer than the classics and not even a good hommage to the originals

i'm with G on this

as i said, it's not a very authentic budapest last(shape)

+1

Michael Ay329 · Apr 1, 2010

I handled the prototype shoes in person back in November. The quality of the leather seemed similar to what I've seen from other makers out of Hungary. It was not as soft or delicate from what I've seen from some Northampton shoe makers. I do like soft leathers.

From what I've read, Gabor has an established client base. I'm sure many are American iGents who desire both traditional and more modern lasts, thus the variety that we've seen from the pictures I have posted.

This is consistent from what I've seen in pictures posted by Vass and Koronya in offering both styles of lasts.

So far this new endevaor promises to offer perhaps greater customization in design, using standard lasts as witnessed by the last black balmoral oxford. Luk-cha is correct that G&G has created a near identical bespoke design. The beauty of this, if finances don't permit English bespoke, then one can commission a similar design on a standard last.

Personally, I like the traditional Hungarian shoe designs and lasts. This is why I am awaiting further updates.

The promise of better quality leathers is also a point of interest for me.

Fritzl, what makes you feel the brown Budapester is more for the iGent crowd?

If it doesn't work out, oh well, I can have Springline make me a Budapester style last (since they have my measurements) and then have Clifford Roberts make me the monk straps that I desire...but without the Goyser stitching

Cary Grant · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by gdl203

Well we can still comment on pictures, right? Or do we all need to STFU until we handle each and every one of these shoes?

I didn't say more choices was not welcome - just commented that these look somewhat off to my eye. I'm sure others will think they're the bee's knees - that's great.

No need to STFU... I just can't get around "The leather looks cheapo." - as near as I can tell from the pics they look about like any other shoe including Vass, EG etc viewed online.

gdl203 · Apr 1, 2010

The leather on that monk looks cheapo. The way it micro-creases everywhere there is a curve is not what you'd see on a Vass, EG or any other high end shoe (aniline tanned or not). The finishing and antiquing of the some of the pieces above is just unfortunate.

fritzl · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

Personally, I like the traditional Hungarian shoe designs and lasts. This is why I am awaiting further updates.

The promise of better quality leathers is also a point of interest for me.

Fritz, what makes you feel the brown Budapester posted recently is more for the iGent crowd??? Is it that the Goyser stitching stops at the heel?

Michael,

Sterling and me had the pleasure to pick up the IPC order on monday. they are now at the last maker to receive their bespoke trees. we came to the agreement with mr. kalmÃ¡n bÃ

rta, that this is the way to go.

Sterling will chime in on classic lasts. i have said enough on this topic. "we" need fresh blood.

fwiw, the examples shown by you are not traditional, at least from what i've been taught. these are for the i-gents.

i don't get the leather remarks. leather looks very nice and authentic. horses for courses.

you got me wrong on the budapester. imo, this is a very poor shape of the last. probably on purpose, this is an adapted version. best bet would be to ask them.

for the protocoll, i said it ad nauseum: i p r e f e r the 270 degree goyser welt, depending on the shoe style, period

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

If it doesn't work out. oh well, I can have Springline make me a Budapester style last (since they have my measurements) and then have Clifford Roberts make me the monk straps that I desire...but without the Goyser stitching/welt

please don't take offense, but this is pure nonsense.

imo, cr is a very talented shoemaker and springline makes good lasts, but why do you want them to "experiment" on a budapester?

Cary Grant · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by gdl203

The leather on that monk looks cheapo. The way it micro-creases everywhere there is a curve is not what you'd see on a Vass, EG or any other high end shoe (aniline tanned or not). The finishing and antiquing of the some of the pieces above is just unfortunate.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree.

Michael Ay329 · Apr 1, 2010

fritzl;3103770please don't take offense said:
No offense Fritzl

, Springline actually has an "Alt Wein" raised toe box last (which appears identical to the Budapest raised toe box that I have seen from Vass, Dinkelacker & now this Mystery Shoemaker). I understand Alt Wein was a possible generic Mittle-Europe term for a semi-brogue shoe...but with Springline, it might reference to the use of a Central European last shape.

I would not want Springline to make me a Budapester style last from scratch. But if they have familiarity with it...well its a mere 227 pound gamble.

Luk-cha...good eye on noting the similarity between one of the latest pics (the crescent shaped blucher) and a similar design done by Fosters bespoke. I prefer the crescent shape apron on a more rounded last and feel the Budapester style last might mate well with it...on a monk strap of course

Fritzl, give me some details on how the latest brown blucher is not a traditional Budapester (it looks the same as the black one I posted in the beginning of this thread)?
By Budapester, I mean the raised toe box last (not the generic Mittle Europe term for using a wing tip design on a blucher)

A Harris · Apr 1, 2010

What is going to differentiate this line is customization and available options. The clicker Gabor is working with seems quite willing to try different upper designs, and the maker is offering more options as well, including pegged soles. And there will be a wide variety of leather, including crust leathers.

fritzl · Apr 1, 2010

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

No offense Fritzl

, Springline actually has an "Alt Wien" raised toe box last (which appears identical to the Budapest raised toe box that I have seen from Vass, Dinkelacker & now this Mystery Shoemaker). I understand Alt Wien is a generic Mittle-Europe term for a semi-brogue shoe...but with Springline, it might reference to the use of a Central European last shape.

I would not want Springline to make me a Budapester style last from scratch. But if they have familiarity with it...well its a mere 227 pound gamble.

k.,

Michael its Wien, ok? Wien, ftfy

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

Fritzl, give me some details on how the latest brown blucher is not a traditional Budapester (it looks the same as the black one I posted in the beginning of this thread)?

it might be the angle, but it is not distinct enough. it's sort of sloppy. sterling will post a picture. then you can compare. the black one is good. well done.

i think the whole project has a lot of potential, due to the flexibility AHarris describes.

Cary Grant · Apr 1, 2010

Somebody school me on pegged soles.

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