Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Originally Posted by Cheweh

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I bought a trench coat from the GAP and it fits around the body a bit more loosely than I would like it to. Is it advisable to take it to the tailor to get it slimmed down a bit?

If so, around how much should I expect to pay?

edit: nevermind. search function, etc.

As American men, on average, put on more weight US standard sizes (S M L XL etc.) are growing around the waist in proportion to the shoulders. If you have a moderately athletic build you will find this to be a problem now, more than in years past.

The GAP does a solid job in construction and fabric choices. Seams may not be as flat as you would like and interfacings will be glued, but for a manufacturer of basic, middle of the road, off-the-peg garments their quality control and consistancy of manufacture is very high. If you like the coat having the garment altered will likely repay the effort in terms of several seasons of wear.

The side seams are usually the seams to change in order to reduce the waist on a coat. Removing material from the center seam will cause the rear hem to lift. The product planners at the GAP know that you may be having these side seams altered, and so access to these side seams will be relatively easy.

From start to finish, the job of greeting you, measuring and pinning the coat, taking your contact information and details of payment, opening up the lining for access to the seams, stitching the new seams, ripping out the old seams, removing stray threads, pressing the new seam flat, closing the lining and bagging the garment, will take someone who knows what they are doing about an hour. Depending on where you live and what your tailor is paying for rent, this will be somewhere between fifty and eighty dollars worth of work. As a general rule you want to be talking to someone who is doing the work on their own premises, and is not sending it out. The quality of the work will be more consistent.

When you do this, the garment will probably look MUCH better. Since you will probably be going back on a regular basis you will want to find a solid, honest tailor whose work is fast and efficient and who you personally like. It will just be easier. By and large American men often do not wear clothing that fits. It seems not to occur to them. When you have your jackets altered to fit you personally, your appearance will be significantly better than the norm, and your self-presentation will quietly signal competence. Having garments that fit your individual athletic frame can be achieved, to some significant degree, without going to the expense of made-to-measure.

Originally Posted by fxh

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I'm wondering if anyone has a pair of these Herring Stratford and can comment on how they go with a suit. Or if they are a more casual boot in real life?

To explain - 'cos I'm in Melbourne I can only see pics and order online.

I wear Herring shoes and chukka boots and I like them. The styles are traditional, and the leather is tanned such that it takes wax well. However, I think that these specific boots worn with a suit may disappoint you, even in urban Australia where the combination of boots and suits is more accepted than it is elsewhere.

Just bought some Alden cigar shell longwings, but only have the #8 wax Polish. Can I safely use this instead of waiting for my local store to get in the brown wax?

Originally Posted by robert in LA

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I wear Herring shoes and chukka boots and I like them. The styles are traditional, and the leather is tanned such that it takes wax well. However, I think that these specific boots worn with a suit may disappoint you, even in urban Australia where the combination of boots and suits is more accepted than it is elsewhere.

Could you elaborate as to why they would be disappointing with a suit? Is it the design/pattern, the leather, or something else? Also, would you think that they wouldn't be up for pants with an odd jacket? I'm curious because, as someone who usually wears boots, I hadn't heard of these and was pleasantly surprised to find them priced so reasonably.

Seen a jacket made by Chaps by Ralph Lauren. Is this one of Ralph Lauren's good or bad lines? Anyone know?

I saw a spectacular monk strap on sale here in FSforum- A Romano martegani w/ Cortina label. wanted to buy one, couldn't find any online...(btw martegani has a horrible official website) was the label discontinued? Any possible alternative where I can get a monk w/similar patina? (And, of course, without having to face the Berluti pricetag)

Here's the original FS post for reference.

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=145453

Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by robert in LA

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I wear Herring shoes and chukka boots and I like them. The styles are traditional, and the leather is tanned such that it takes wax well. However, I think that these specific boots worn with a suit may disappoint you, even in urban Australia where the combination of boots and suits is more accepted than it is elsewhere.
Thanks. I asked because in the picture they look as if they are fine enough to wear ok under a suit or pants and jacket and look dressy enough for day to day work wear. They don't look too clunky or soles too thick and when viewed from above seem to look a bit finer than most of the shoes I see around me at work. I tend to wear mainly boots as I wear some solid orthotics/support and therefore shoes don't fit that well. Also the ankle support is desirable for my problems. So I'm used to boots (I'd never wear RMs other than with jeans).I also don't like my footwear to be too sleek and narrow looking anyway. I think in the pictures that boot looks ok to me.I know others wouldn't dream of wearing it with business pants or suit. But I would. So the question was more like: Does this boot "in the flesh" look about the same as in the photos or is it chunkier or sleeker?

Originally Posted by miurasv

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Seen a jacket made by Chaps by Ralph Lauren. Is this one of Ralph Lauren's good or bad lines? Anyone know?
I think it's RL's lowest line. It's certainly one of their lower lines with no canvassed construction or better fabrics.

Originally Posted by fxh

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Thanks. I asked because in the picture they look as if they are fine enough to wear ok under a suit or pants and jacket and look dressy enough for day to day work wear. They don't look too clunky or soles too thick and when viewed from above seem to look a bit finer than most of the shoes I see around me at work.

I tend to wear mainly boots as I wear some solid orthotics/support and therefore shoes don't fit that well. Also the ankle support is desirable for my problems. So I'm used to boots (I'd never wear RMs other than with jeans).I also don't like my footwear to be too sleek and narrow looking anyway.

I think in the pictures that boot looks ok to me.I know others wouldn't dream of wearing it with business pants or suit. But I would.

So the question was more like: Does this boot "in the flesh" look about the same as in the photos or is it chunkier or sleeker?
The obvious reason why they wouldn't work well with suits is that they're bluchers rather than balmorals.

Has anyone ordered a Barbour from the bestincountry website? They seem to have the best prices on the internet, which makes me wonder. But the prices aren't so low that they set off alarms. It's about $250 for a Beaufort shipped to the US.

what are some good/slim fitting khakis? looking for a fit like apc ns/dior 19 cm

Went into the Burberry factory outlet today. What I was amazed with was the poor quality of most their stuff. In my opinion it is very poorly made and the fabrics are crap.
How they can charge the prices they do, and get away with doing so, is beyond me.
Even with up to a third off!

Originally Posted by Dan e gee

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Went into the Burberry factory outlet today. What I was amazed with was the poor quality of most their stuff. In my opinion it is very poorly made and the fabrics are crap.
How they can charge the prices they do, and get away with doing so, is beyond me.
Even with up to a third off!

Well, because it either has the check pattern on it, the equestrian knight logo, or says Burberry.

However, I own a Burberry polo that I am quite happy with, got it on sale for $60 at a Burberry free-standing store.

Originally Posted by TheDarkKnight

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When you buy a MTM or bespoke suit, how many pairs of trousers do you get made for it?
I've heard many people buy 2 pants for every jacket. I can tell you there are many thread with people looking for matching pants, so if you're going to get them, best to do it at the time because you'll never find that fabric again or it won't quite match up. I think this choice also depends if you wear your jacket at the office or not. If you just hang it and wear your pants all the time, they'll wear out much faster.

Originally Posted by max_r

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whenever i see someone mention pocketsquares here they mention linen, just want to know if silk is okay for a pocketsquare for businessy type stuff (like job interviews and whatnot)
uh, well we all start somewhere. That being said, there's no such thing as a stupid question. We're all here to share and learn. I'd suggest getting a plain white linen square, then a silk one in like a dark light blue (maybe with a pattern) or burgandy. Start with taht, see how often you wear them and if you're comfortable, then branch out from there if you want. I wear the same PS's more then I do ties, so i have much fewer.

Originally Posted by Vazfinest1

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I have a quick question for everybody. I was measured by my tailor as having a size 38 chest. I was told by some people that I should consider buying size 36 blazers and suits...
Suits, like most clothes (eg pants) are vanity sized to make you feel small in your waist and big in your chest. My chest measures 38, so I buy 36 suits which have a width at the chest of about 19-19.5, giving me 2-3 inches of wiggle room. You're a 36, not 38. Depends a bit on the brand, but yes. I've tried 34 from H&M, and 38 from Prada, so it just depends.

Originally Posted by The Leader

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What color pants would go best with a navy velvet blazer? Maybe a conservative/classic suggestion and then a more daring or exciting suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I think charcoal would be conservative, light grey a little more interesting, and burgandy or dark green a little more daring. My votes for light brown shoes, burgandy pants, white shirt, navy velvet blazer, white PS.

Originally Posted by JesterM

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At the advice of the forum I've gotten a lot of my dress shirts tailored, is there any benefit to doing the same for polo shirts? They seem to suffer from the same problem as my dress shirts (great fit at the shoulders and chest, baggy at the waist).
Yes, I do this tailoring with both my dress shirts, t-shirts, and polos. Just keep in mind that they'll be untucked so they need a bit of room plus a wedge cut into the sides so you have space to move. work the measurements out on one before doing them all

Originally Posted by miurasv

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Seen a jacket made by Chaps by Ralph Lauren. Is this one of Ralph Lauren's good or bad lines? Anyone know?
One of the lowest lines along with Lauren. Basically department store diffusions. Stick with Polo if you can, but if it looks great (ie fits) and it's cheap and you like it then it's basically like H&M. Buy, Wear, Toss.

Originally Posted by fettuccine

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what are some good/slim fitting khakis? looking for a fit like apc ns/dior 19 cm
Try Uniqlo, they have some mighty slim fits. Also, I'm about to put up a super skinny pair (size 28) from Modern Amusement. Lastly, Levis does some khaki 5P style pants that are "slimish"

I'm looking for my first pair of black captoe under 150pounds/200USD. For various logistical reason I'm only planning to order from pediwear and herring. I'm narrowing down to the Loake 1880 line vs Alfred Sargent Classic line, or maybe some Barker. http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/2603.php http://www.pediwear.co.uk/sargent/products/41.php Is the AS classic line corrected-grain? Some say only the premier line is worth getting but AS seems to have better "reputation" than Loake so I don't know. PS I need one pretty soon so I can't wait for sales or factory seconds.