Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[cupper]

Was wondering if there was anything intrinsically wrong with re-tapering because of the cut. I too haven't re-tapered but I guess it depends on the pants and the look you're after.

Imperfection is always in the Yohji vocabulary.

True

 

[zapatiste]

well, i've always rolled all my trousers which are all quite big at the hems save one pair that have more of a taper, but the brushed wool fabric so light and fluffy that despite the taper they just gently caress the tops of my shoes so i let them be. One great thing is one needn't fuss much about such details, as David pointed out ;-)

 

[Howell31]

I definitely cherish the role of imperfection, asymmetry, and naturalness in Yohji's philosophy. That's why I wanted a good second opinion... why I posed the question here. Part of me feels like tapering slightly would be hardly noticeable, especially considering it's already at 6.5 (rarely have I ever seen a taper past 7" on a "classic" trouser). Normally, I might dare to be so pedantic, but when it comes to Yohji, I feel like over thinking such questions is against the overall philosophy; what might seem sloppy in other sartorial contexts, Yohji proves to be a sign of character. And that's what I'm striving for in the end and why I'm choosing Yohji in the first place. One could almost say, I'd rather negotiate my relationship to the fabric than obey some "rules" of tailoring (Forgive the poetry, I've had a few drinks tonight)

As it stands, I'm rolling about 4-5 times. The fabric is so thick, and the taper so severe, that I can't make the cuff more than about 1.5 inches (depending on the fit of the pant, a 30" inseam leaves me with one good break). In this state, the cuff is almost absurdly chunky however... I think I will elect to taper just 3-4 inches, still rolling once or twice, along davidlee's 1st bit of advice.

 

[davidlee388]

Those pants are meant to be tailored ( shortened ) and/or rolled in my view. If your inseam is 30" and you're 5"11, a 36" inseam guy will be at least 6"5 tall and not many men ( if any ) with that height have waist of 32" or less to fit your pants .....

 

[Parker]

just roll 'em

 

[zapatiste]

^ so nice , especially that chunky-soled footwear that always seems to evade me !

excuse the phone pics but ...
rare are the occasions i find myself like a crow

Spoiler

ss12 ramie cap
aw08 pick stitching wool gab db jacket
aw06 multi-pocketed wool gab trousers
birks

i actually find this facial distortion scary

 

[davidlee388]

@zapatiste Very nice fit! Btw you meant AW08 handstitched instead of AW10?

Those shoes were the ones I think Wire said to have disintegrated within days.

 

[zapatiste]

thank you and yes 08 not 10 haha
well they still look nice even if they disintegrate after the model exits the stage

 

[StevenE]

Just to add to the footwear horror stories, I bought a pair of the SS13 sneakers which completely unthreaded and came apart the very first time I wore them, within 20 minutes of putting them on.

The conduit street staff were very apologetic and repaired them free of charge (the stitching came back neater and stronger than before) so it had a happy ending but I would probably think twice about getting another YY pair, especially considering I'm no longer living in London.

 

[Benesyed]

really dig that fp zap!

 

[rudo]

Maybe I'm just lucky but owned total of 4 and currently have 2 (ss13 sneaker, aw12 two buckle boots) and they held up just fine and took a good beating. I would definitely consider being more careful in future though.

 

[davidlee388]

Families - The Lees and The Yamamotos



YYF SS11 Crown-less Boater Hat - ( FO-H01-931 ) - in black. 100% sisal with cut-out at the top.

YYF AW12 Look 9 Tassel Devil Coat - ( FD-C35-112 ) - in navy blue. 100% bouclé type wool. Size 2, unlined cape/coat hybrid, structured shoulders tipped with cotton tassels + 3 gun metal coloured brass paillettes. Open fronted, double pointed " lapel " construction. Collar and full length " inner " lapels completely detachable via 2 buttons at collar + 4 large double buttons on inner lapels giving styling options:- without them, inner lapels worn inside out creating a scarf effect or buttoned " normally " providing openings for the hands. Staggeringly beautiful piece.

YY Noir AW10 Asymmetrical LS Blouse - ( NC-B06-006 ) - in deep black, smooth, soft hand 55/45 rayon/cotton blend. Size 2 oversized fit. Mother of pearl buttons, 9B closure with unevenly spaced button placement + vertical/horizontal buttonholes. Hidden left inner strap allows a gathered asymmetrical fit at the waist to 3 buttons on right panel.

Limi Feu AW10 Look 1 Combat Boots - ( LC-E02-785 ) - in black. Size LL, smooth leather + nubuck construction. Long 46 uneven eyelet ( seriously, 2 x 23 ) lace closure with full length back zips for easy access. Commando soles. Spare yellow/black laces provided.

YYPH SS10 Fedora Hat - ( **-H03-965 ) - black, 100% polypropylene mesh.

YYPH AW10 4.1 The Men Tab Collar Coat - ( **-J66-100 ) - in black, 100% wool gabardine. Size 2, fully lined in cupro with 3 inside pockets, big horn buttons, 5B closure with a stand collar tab closure, 3B non working cuffs, long back vent.

YYPH SS06 Multi-pocket pants ( HR-P55-100 ) - sz 3, 100% black wool gabardine, large multi waist pockets/pouches.

Y's for men AW07 Ankle Boots - ( MX-A40-740 ) - Size 3 in black leather, 5 metal eyelet lace closure, Vibram commando soles.

Random leggings, Uniqlo SS Tee, CDG H+ belt

 

[snowmanxl]

My gawd that devil coat cape is gorgeous !

 

[Auburn]

Y's blazer and shirt/YYPH long sweater (AW 2005)/YYPH wool gabardine pants/Moma

 

[chayin]

sizing up to size 3