Workwear, Americana and Raw Denim

[hammerhead_corvette]

I know there has been a debate on here before about rolling your jeans. What is everyone's preference on rolled or hemmed denim? Thinking about hemming these.

 

[vdubiv]

I get mine hemmed so that I can do one single cuff, or turn-up, I do not like the look of jeans that have been turned-up more than one time. Like people who get a 36" inseam and only need a 30" so it's folded over more than once. One small sleek turn-up just to show the selvedge line.

 

[dieworkwear]

I know there has been a debate on here before about rolling your jeans. What is everyone's preference on rolled or hemmed denim? Thinking about hemming these. View attachment 1586629

Parker on here once gave what I thought was a really good heuristic for cuffs. He said he thinks of cuffs like the serifs on a font. He likes cuffs (or serifs) are traditional outfits. He likes no cuffs (san serifs) on more contemporary outfits.

With the kind of workwear outfits discuss in this thread, I like a small, single folded cuff (double cuffs always look too thick to me).

With a contemporary fit with something like a suede Our Legacy jacket, I think no cuffs looks better.

With a tailored jacket, I can go either way -- cuffs or no cuffs.

 

[mak1277]

One small sleek turn-up just to show the selvedge line.

So cuffs are just a flex to show you're wearing selvedge?

(not judging...I always unbutton the last button on my surgeon cuffs on sport coats and I guess it's for the same reason).

 

[dieworkwear]

So cuffs are just a flex to show you're wearing selvedge?

(not judging...I always unbutton the last button on my surgeon cuffs on sport coats and I guess it's for the same reason).

I think there was a period in 2005-2010 when raw denim was becoming mainstream, and some guys flipped their cuffs to show off the selvedge stripe.

But there's also a group of people who are obsessive about workwear and certain looks. For them, a rolled cuff is partly about historical accuracy, as they may be copying greasers, rockabilly types, or workwear looks prominent in the 1930s through 60s. During that period, many people wore unsanforized denim, so they cuffed their jeans before hemming, as you don't know where the hem might end up later.

In terms of a "flex," the selvedge stripe doesn't mean anything anymore. Uniqlo and The Gap once sold selvedge, raw denim jeans. There are dozens of Kickstarters for it. Selvedge denim isn't particularly unique or special. I think most people cuff because they're after a specific look.

 

[Numbernine]

I hem mine so I can wear a small single cuff with low top boots ( Viberg service) or roll it down for a bit of stacking with higher shafted boots like engineers or western. I hem, repair and alter my own jeans so I don't mind messing with them a bit

 

[XWT]

So cuffs are just a flex to show you're wearing selvedge?

(not judging...I always unbutton the last button on my surgeon cuffs on sport coats and I guess it's for the same reason).

I cuff even when I'm wearing non selvedge denim

 

[mak1277]

I cuff even when I'm wearing non selvedge denim

Me too, but only because I only own non-selvedge denim!

 

[upsett1_spaghett1]

I think there was a period in 2005-2010 when raw denim was becoming mainstream, and some guys flipped their cuffs to show off the selvedge stripe.

But there's also a group of people who are obsessive about workwear and certain looks. For them, a rolled cuff is partly about historical accuracy, as they may be copying greasers, rockabilly types, or workwear looks prominent in the 1930s through 60s. During that period, many people wore unsanforized denim, so they cuffed their jeans before hemming, as you don't know where the hem might end up later.

In terms of a "flex," the selvedge stripe doesn't mean anything anymore. Uniqlo and The Gap once sold selvedge, raw denim jeans. There are dozens of Kickstarters for it. Selvedge denim isn't particularly unique or special. I think most people cuff because they're after a specific look.

This is pretty fair, I tend to cuff when I'm wearing selvedge jeans, but I also tend to only wear those with more workwear or Americana type look.

For something more contemporary or street, I would probably go no cuff, but also might not rock selvedge then.

With tailored clothing in general I almost always prefer a cuff if it's not black tie so if I am wearing jeans with a sport coat it's gonna be cuffed.

 

[hammerhead_corvette]

Great Price on this Freenote shirt. One of my favorite shirts I purchased recently.

Benson in Cream

The Benson is Freenote's classic overshirt, designed for wear over a base layer to keep you nice and warm when you get out of the house. 11oz brushed Japanese flannel 1/8" double needle detail Bias cut pockets and back yoke Custom fisheye horn buttons Rinsed 100% cotton Sewn in the USA

porterhouseclothing.com

 

[XWT]

LVC 505 after 2.5 years of moderate wear.

Sanforized denim takes forever to fade...

 

[StrangeJeremy]

I think there was a period in 2005-2010 when raw denim was becoming mainstream, and some guys flipped their cuffs to show off the selvedge stripe.

But there's also a group of people who are obsessive about workwear and certain looks. For them, a rolled cuff is partly about historical accuracy, as they may be copying greasers, rockabilly types, or workwear looks prominent in the 1930s through 60s. During that period, many people wore unsanforized denim, so they cuffed their jeans before hemming, as you don't know where the hem might end up later.

In terms of a "flex," the selvedge stripe doesn't mean anything anymore. Uniqlo and The Gap once sold selvedge, raw denim jeans. There are dozens of Kickstarters for it. Selvedge denim isn't particularly unique or special. I think most people cuff because they're after a specific look.

I keep a small cuff on all my denim for a couple reasons - I've noticed upwards shrink continues for years. My first pair of Tellason Ankara (when they were just the ACL collab pair) went from a 2" cuff to no cuff; same for most of my pairs of Ooe Yofukuten. The other reason is just me being too lazy to hem anything.

 

[XWT]

Bridle belt with brown kangaroo lacing inspired by Marlon Brando’s belt in The Wild One. Made by Don’t Mourn, Organize! in the Utah.

 

[NautOfEarth]

Just ordered a custom Viapiana Type III denim jacket. Wanted a standard denim jacket that actually hits at the belt line instead of going 2-3 inches below it. Really hoping I got the measurements right.

- Preshrunk
- Brass hardware
- Faded orange thread
- Veg tan leather patch
- Double needle construction
- No hand-warmer pockets

Went with this denim:

 

[XWT]

Good luck. Ben does nice work.