Which tailoring to go for next

[twuthetiger]

Hi all, I have gotten into bespoke tailoring for the past two years and the journey has been exciting. However, as much as I am enjoying these garments and the process, the ambulance of choices does seem overwhelming for me. I am unsure where to go next and would love some inputs.

A little bit about me, I work in healthcare and the dress is smart casual (no shorts, jeans, tanks, etc..). I do live in Boston and require tailoring specific for the winter. I have learned that though having a navy/grey suit would be useful, I don't really reach for it much at all outside of attending weddings or going for an interview. And I am not really sure if I would go for a causal suit either. I am much more likely to reach for casual jackets (sports coats, chore coats, suiting that may actually work as separates), coats, odd trousers, chinos, jeans, and knits. Here's what I've commissioned to far:

1. Navy SB suit: Made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury using a 14oz worsted wool from the Holland & Sherry classic worsted bunch in 2021. It wears comfortably and looks great. The cloth has some awesome drape to it, which complimented the slightly roomier cut. However, I have only worn this suit no more than five times. The only times I felt that I needed it was for an interview and some weddings. It doesn't really feel like me to wear a suit and tie unless I have to.
2. Navy trench coat: Also works of Whitcomb using a navy cotton ventile fabric and a detachable cashmere lining. The trench coat itself has been very useful over the past two years as it rains very frequently here. I thought I would be using the cashmere lining more but it was so much hassle with all the buttons.
3. Grey herringbone tweed jacket: Made by Sartoria Pirozzi this year with a 15oz tweed from Holland & Sherry. I will say I do like how Neapolitan cuts flatter my physique more so than English cuts. I am short and very stocky, I feel like the English cuts exaggerate my shoulders too much and run a tad long. I wear this sports jacket very frequently, it works with jeans, chinos, and some odd trousers. This has got to be one of my favorite tailoring I have gotten so far.
4. Two odd trousers: One cream caccioppoli 12oz linen made by Solito and one 14oz mid grey fox flannel made by Whitcomb. Both of these I wear very often as they are super versatile pieces for me.
5. Navy wool sports jacket: Mady by Sartoria Solito with a three season 12oz vintage wool sports jacket. I don’t know the exact term for the fabric but it is finer than tweed but rougher than a flannel. I personally use this more than my navy suit because the fabric and the cut feels less formal to me. I feel like I can wear this more as a separate and not look like an orphaned suit jacket. Again, the neapolitan cut here plays a big part as I think it fits me better.
6. Brown tweed ulster: Made by Whitcomb using a 16oz Harris tweed. The weight is pretty light for a coat but it’s so spongy it drapes well. And I love how there are so many colors in this tweed even though it looks brown from afar. I also really enjoy the ulster design and reach for this coat weekly when it is cold enough out.

My question is, where should I go next? I feel like I still need some basics before venturing out. Maybe more trousers for both summer and winter in grey and dark brown? A cord suit so I could double as separates? I am open to all suggestions. Thanks all!

 

[billsmith]

Might an overcoat that works over sport coats be the ticket?

 

[twuthetiger]

Might an overcoat that works over sport coats be the ticket?

Yes, I was thinking of getting another coat. Maybe a camel polo coat

 

[Crispyj]

W&S bespoke chinos if you like their work enough.
Some jackets in glen check or windowpane.

 

[twuthetiger]

W&S bespoke chinos if you like their work enough.
Some jackets in glen check or windowpane.

I'm definitely considering windowpane and gun club sports coats in the near future. Also thoughts on getting them DB vs SB? I thought about either getting a DB jacket made with the same fox flannel as my trousers to complete the suit or just a DB sports coat in a casual fabric. I'm just not sure how much I would wear it as compared to the SB counterpart of the same fabric.

 

[jonathanS]

Sounds like you like the Pirozzi stuff on your body. That’s where I’d stay.

Also sounds like you don’t wear suits often. A summer navy might be an option if you go that route.

But, it sounds like a blue check jacket & more odd trousers would be the more for you. I think about wardrobe as spring / summer or fall / winter. First things first is decide which season you want to order from next, then figure out what you have for that season currently & what you need more of (do you need more suits, jackets or trousers).

Then you have a general idea you can take to the tailor and say “I need (this) - are there any specific fabrics you recommend?”

 

[Crispyj]

I'm definitely considering windowpane and gun club sports coats in the near future. Also thoughts on getting them DB vs SB? I thought about either getting a DB jacket made with the same fox flannel as my trousers to complete the suit or just a DB sports coat in a casual fabric. I'm just not sure how much I would wear it as compared to the SB counterpart of the same fabric.

Only pattern I would do for db is glencheck, otherwise stick with solids, textured fabrics (mark cho has a db fox tweed in navy).

The two Neapolitan tailors can make a casual db jacket. Like you mentioned before, making a suit probably won't get much wear, so stick with separates.

 

[twuthetiger]

Sounds like you like the Pirozzi stuff on your body. That’s where I’d stay.

Also sounds like you don’t wear suits often. A summer navy might be an option if you go that route.

But, it sounds like a blue check jacket & more odd trousers would be the more for you. I think about wardrobe as spring / summer or fall / winter. First things first is decide which season you want to order from next, then figure out what you have for that season currently & what you need more of (do you need more suits, jackets or trousers).

Then you have a general idea you can take to the tailor and say “I need (this) - are there any specific fabrics you recommend?”

Thanks for providing a way to figure out the next steps! To me suits are good to have but not essential since everyone else at work wears either scrubs or button down with chinos. Maybe the casual side of suiting where both can be used as separates.

 

[jonathanS]

Thanks for providing a way to figure out the next steps! To me suits are good to have but not essential since everyone else at work wears either scrubs or button down with chinos. Maybe the casual side of suiting where both can be used as separates.

then I’d figure out which season I need more jacket / troursers in. How harsh is your summer / winter. If you don’t get snow, maybe you can leave the flannels - go straight to fresco trousers. Something like that & stretch them into the winter.

 

[twuthetiger]

then I’d figure out which season I need more jacket / troursers in. How harsh is your summer / winter. If you don’t get snow, maybe you can leave the flannels - go straight to fresco trousers. Something like that & stretch them into the winter.

I do have more things for the fall/winter than for the summer haha. So maybe a high twist, wsl blend, or some Irish linen maybe