What are the factors that make trousers drape perfectly?

[Fexxi]

Hi everyone,

My classic menswear journey started recently and so far I've purchased four MTM trousers from iTailor and Luxire. I'm very happy with them and after a few trials, I think I've been able to find a very good pattern for Luxire. My goal is to have trousers that drape as best as possible with MTM, like often seen with B&Tailor's trousers. The front crease should have a continuous drape. I think you all know what I mean.

Now, my newest Luxire Cotton Linen Twill chino drapes pretty well but after wearing it for a bit, the centre crease collapses around my knee area. Same for my iTailor trousers (pure wool). My Luxire Linen trousers (only 4.5 oz) doesn't drape that well even though it's the same pattern as the cotton twill trousers. Based on my observations, the following factors play an important role when it comes to drape:

1) Fabric weight
2) Cut - enough room in the legs and knees
3) Leg opening - shouldn't be too slim (20 cm/7.8 inch in my case)

Are there any other factors that influence drape? Perhaps posture? Are there limits in that regard that "MTM can only do that much" and that some body types need a bespoke garment to achieve perfect trouser drape?

Looking forward to your input! Let me know if photos of me wearing the trousers would make your judgement easier.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Pictures would help.

 

[Spinster Jones]

Might be too slim, they shouldn't really be snug at the knee, or in the thighs.

English forwards pleats are prefered.
Are you wearing suspenders?
Pictures retrieved from Bespoke Wrinkles

 

[radicaldog]

Assuming basic fit, a heavier cloth will make all the difference to drape.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I’m not a fabric expert so things like “4.5 oz.” don’t mean much to me. Linen and even linen blends are notoriously bad at holding creases. It’s just the nature of the fabric.

 

[Fexxi]

Thank you for your replies so far! My trousers are pleated, I'm usually not wearing suspenders. However, I do want to invest in some and I've had suspender buttons added to some of the trousers. Do suspenders positively impact the drape? The pictures you attached pretty much resemble my preferred fit!

Yes, I'm not surprised that my pure linen trousers don't drape that well. I've attached some photos of the cotton linen trousers that drape pretty well. I'm very happy with them but I'm wondering if there's still room for improvement and whether I should make some adjustments regarding the measurements for my next order. Maybe a bit more room in the thighs and knees? Please excuse the mediocre image quality, that is all I can provide at the moment.

My current Luxire measurements in cm:

pants-hips : 50
pants-front-rise : 32
pants-back-rise : 46
pants-outseam : 38
pants-thigh : 31
pants-knee : 25
pants-bottom : 20
waist : 40
inseam : 76

 

[BPL Esq]

I could be wrong, or it could be the photos, but those look too slim to "drape properly" if you mean what I think you mean (e.g., something like what Spinster posted). Note how in his photos the trousers are essentially hanging (draping) from the waist area and aren't clinging around the seat and thighs.

 

[Fexxi]

I could be wrong, or it could be the photos, but those look too slim to "drape properly" if you mean what I think you mean (e.g., something like what Spinster posted). Note how in his photos the trousers are essentially hanging (draping) from the waist area and aren't clinging around the seat and thighs.

That could very much be the case. I might post these pictures in the tailor's thread in the hopes of getting some fit and measurements advice.

 

[Spinster Jones]

That is the case. Your butt is too pronounced. Therefore you need more room in the leg.

It should also be a tad higher on the waist. It seems as though it reaches beneath your belly button, but it should be above.

You also seem to have a anterior pelvic tilt, which makes your butt pop out like that. But that also means you wont have a straight front, as it's curved. You have to work on your glutes I reckon, look it up. I might be wrong, might just be the picture.

Compare these two;

He has no tilt, and therefore it falls more naturally without being interupted by the butt. Also a roomier cut all around. And higher waist. And heavier cloth, as others have mentioned.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

The Platonic ideal of drape in trousers would see them hang from your natural waist, wherever it may be. Most people's proper waist is higher than they think. They'd be secured there with either braces or a trouser-band that rides up slightly at the back so that the trousers can hang properly in the rear. They'd also fall straight down from that point without hugging/cupping your backside, and have a perfectly straight crease without crimps down the back and front. The weight of the trousers would be such that they'd maintain this position if you stood still.

In reality, most are not interested in getting trousers that hang like this. They generally require pleats if you aren't in excellent shape, and are always wider/sit higher than usual. If you do get them, and are slim enough to pull off the flat-front varieties as well as pleats, they're the best to wear with a jacket, IME.

 

[dieworkwear]

The Platonic ideal of drape in trousers would see them hang from your natural waist

Trousers at your natural waist?

The OP, to get a good drape, you need:

1. The right cut. You need to see a physical bespoke tailor, not an online tailor.
2. Heavier fabric. For trousers, I generally wear 12 to 14oz.
3. I find twills drape better than plain weaves
4. Cuff helps
5. If you really want to achieve the perfect drape, it helps to wear suspenders. Belted trousers often don't drape that well in the back.

Your linen trousers are not 4.5oz. That's shirting weight.

 

[Fexxi]

Thank you for all the helpful replies! I'll take it into account when ordering the next pair. Seeing a bespoke tailor is unfortunately not an option for me due to budget and availability in my region or even country.

Your linen trousers are not 4.5oz. That's shirting weight.

They actually are according to Luxire: https://luxire.com/products/dark_navy_linen_pants-luxire_162_cl?variant=7114168827959#/

 

[dieworkwear]

Thank you for all the helpful replies! I'll take it into account when ordering the next pair. Seeing a bespoke tailor is unfortunately not an option for me due to budget and availability in my region or even country.



They actually are according to Luxire: https://luxire.com/products/dark_navy_linen_pants-luxire_162_cl?variant=7114168827959#/

I assume that's a typo. You can't make trousers from 4.5oz cloth.

I once interviewed Panico, a bespoke tailor in Naples. He made a safari jacket from 7oz cloth and claimed that weight is traditionally used for papal clothing. Bespoke tailors generally work with fabrics 9oz and above

A visit to Panico Naples (part I). | The Styleforum Journal

Experience Derek Guy's meeting with master tailor Antonio Panico. Panico, if you didn’t already know, is a legendary tailor in Naples.

journal.styleforum.net

Unfortunately, you will never achieve a good fit with online tailors. The fiddling around with different measurements and cobbling together info from non-tailors online just results in a lot of wasted time and money.

 

[Fexxi]

Unfortunately, you will never achieve a good fit with online tailors. The fiddling around with different measurements and cobbling together info from non-tailors online just results in a lot of wasted time and money.

Achieving a good fit is definitely possible I'd say. Achieving a perfect fit, probably not. I'll probably be able to have the seat and legs let out slightly to achieve my desired fit. Maybe I'll slightly increase the rise for the next pair. Then I'm pretty happy!

 

[dieworkwear]

Achieving a good fit is definitely possible I'd say. Achieving a perfect fit, probably not. I'll probably be able to have the seat and legs let out slightly to achieve my desired fit. Maybe I'll slightly increase the rise for the next pair. Then I'm pretty happy!

You look like you stand with your hips forward and knees locked. I've found that it helps to reduce the back rise in such cases. The extra fabric is collapsing underneath your seat, which is causing those folds.

However, I've also found that when you adjust something in pattern, you will need to account for other things, which is why it's useful to see a tailor in person. Such things are not always clear when you don't have a technical background.