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Cuffed pants inseam and break in relation to hem width

Azhar

Active Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
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Long post incoming!

While on holiday at my relatives I have sent 4 pairs of pants / trousers to an alteration place.

2 Gieves made out of 65 Cotton, 29 Wool, 6 Silk Khaki and Beige
2 C Barrie made out of 81 Cotton and 19 Linen / Khaki and Navy all dry clean only

I chose 1 ¾ inch cuffs for the first time. The result I was trying to achieve was no break-slight break one that allows for the crease to be pointy and straight as much as possible.
I'm 6.2 with 36 waist and some extra KGs
In flat front I would usually go half break up to full break with an inseam of up to 33 inches (83.8cm)
I made the mistake to measure while wearing boots and most of them came up at 32.35 inches or 82.2 cm.
When I received the pants the results varied:

1. Gieves came with 32.08 inches (81.5 cm) inseam – kept it
2. Gieves with 32.28 (82cm) inseam
3. CB with 32.5 (82.5cm) inseam
4. CB with 33.1 (84.2cm) inseam

I returned home with only one pair (the first one) thinking that the others might be retouched.
And asked all other 3 pairs to be done to 31.9 (81cm) which I thought to be ideal. I will collect them on my next holiday.

Tried it with formal shoes and there is a slight break like a pinch of fabric in front touching the shoes and I like it that way, at the back it almost touches the top of the heel. Sure there is the disadvantage that it flaps a bit while walking because the fabric is not heavy but can't do otherwise.
I wore it 2 days and notice that contrary to my belief, the trousers would not go down throughout the day but would ever so slightly ride up and after wears the inseam measurement would go from 81.5cm to 81cm. It's probably how material shrinks throughout the day while wearing it or wrinkles.
I suddenly remembered that the 2nd pair of Gieves (same material, same leg opening) was measured by me at 32.28 (82cm) and at the tailors it was more like 32.1 (81.5cm).
These are summery trousers that look really good with loafers so I'm thinking to stick with the same measurement for the 2nd pair (32.08 – 81.5cm) as that tiny 0.5cm is going to ride up through the day.

Now for my CB which are more of a chino material but slightly dressier (80 cotton and 20 linen) I am not sure what to do,
The difference is that these ones have a wider leg opening of 8.25 compared to 8 in Gieves.
So when having a wider leg opening should you go for the preferred inseam in cuffed pants or should you add a bit more? I was thinking to make these at 32.28inches (82cm compared to 81.5 of Gieves)

What else should I take into account? All 4 pairs are dry clean only, so shrinking is not a problem right?
I just want to get it right because creases might be harder to get out the 3rd try. Don't need them urgently that's why I can have them done until next holiday and it is cheaper.
 

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