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Building and upgrading my Wardrobe - where to focus

Snaap

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Hi all

As Office life here in Europe slowly seems to be normalising again and I am now back in a Corporate role at work (with a slightly more formal dress code) its now time for me to regroup and refocus my wardrobe a bit. Additionally I also lost some weight, which means that majority of my clothes don’t fit me properly right now.
It’s a lot of changes that need to be done, so I have created a bit of a “plan” that I would like to pressure test here.

My aim is to have a versatile wardrobe with a good fit from which I can expand in the future. The goal is primarily to make sure I focus my time (and patience) on the right things first (and stop hunting the 11th pair of “fancy” trousers on eBay).


What I usually wear:
- At the office Business Casual (wool trousers + jacket combinations (no ties), though in practice I spend a lot of time with the jacket off). I expect to be at the office on average 3 days a week plus business trips every 1-2 months
- Outside of work mostly chinos with a shirt (sometimes jeans or wool trousers as well) with sneakers or sometimes more dressy leather shoes. Sometimes knit.

Shoes:
Let’s start with the easy stuff - I have 9 pairs of (what I consider) decent Goodyear welted shoes, 2 pairs of boots and 2 leather sneakers. Somehow I end up almost exclusive wearing my suede pairs currently, so maybe Will get one more of those.. but not a priority.
Priority: no short term needs on that front

Suits:
I prefer less formal trousers + jacket combinations. I have one navy suit which fits me, though I essentially don’t wear it a lot (maybe once a month max)
Priority: I would say getting a 2nd suit would be a low priority.

(dress) Trousers:
Okay now it’s getting complicated. I went a bit overboard on eBay, so I have a bit more then 30 Italian trousers currently (mostly grey in a lot of different fabrics and shapes, a couple navy)… However unfortunately due to my posture and body composition I get quite horrible waves in the back seat on unaltered trousers. I got some of them altered however as I lost some weight recently these also don’t really fit very well. The others I didn’t even touch yet… So my plan is to find the best fitting 3-5 pairs and take them to my tailor to see if he can adjust them one size down and make the seat fit. In parallel I am trying Luxire custom pants to see if in the future this could be an option.
Priority: high on the alterations, depending how that goes mid/high on Luxire
Budget: 150€ for alterations, 180€ for Luxire (expand budget if alterations of current trousers to complicated)

Casual Trousers:
I have a pair of beige Chinos for the winter and a pair of linen pants for the summer. Plus a pair of raw salvage jeans. Fit is not perfect in the seat but for casual wear I consider to good enough to not too much about it.
Priority: low, mid term hopefully fit can also be improved via MTM as well


(Sport) Jackets:
I have 2 workhorse jackets (light blue cotton and blue wool) which I wear a lot. As I very frequently wear grey trousers, I don’t see a need to expand colour wise. However both are quite light fabrics so only work well spring - autumn, meaning I need to look for a winter jacket.
Priority: Mid, heavier fabric jacket
Budget: 500€

Outerwear:
I have a navy checkered CT car coat and a beige trench from an Austrian coat maker which fit okay. Also recently bought a decent used brown houndstooth winter coat on eBay where I need to shorten the sleeves but I think works well for the commute next winter.
Priority: Low on upgrading or expanding to other coats

Shirts:
I have crazy amount of shirts from CT in a couple different sizes. Some of them fit me decently if a bit loosely with armholes etc. I also have a custom shirt that I got a few years back. Unfortunately doesn’t fit well anymore (and wasn’t perfect at the time on the first try as well) but I have complicated shoulders (very high shoulders, not same height, short arms) so I am thinking to try again because OTR does not fit me very well (there is only one fit at CT which is wearable from a shoulders/back perspective).
Priority: High, considering all above
Budget: 1300€ (10 x 130€, of course first trying to get the fit right with one shirt)

Knit:
I have a very nice wool/linen Cardigan which I frequently wear when the weather allows. A grey light sweater, brown V neck sweater and grey crew neck, should do the rest (I am not really a sweaters guy).
Priority: low

Accessoires
As mentioned above I don’t wear ties, of course I have a couple of the occasion comes but no need for the day to day. Nice leather bag, wallet and watch strap available, so no short term needs I believe.


To summarise (by decreasing priority):
- get MTM Shirts done
- get available trousers altered
- figure out MTM trouser fit
- find heavier fabric jacket for winter months
- get a 2nd Suit

I know it’s a long post (and probably a bit boring without pics :D) but I as mentioned I wanted to plan this out a bit to have a game plan for the coming months (and stay off eBay).

Would appreciate if you have any thoughts, suggestions or advice!

Thank you
Snap
 
Last edited:

thefashion

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Apr 19, 2022
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Whassup!

I am also on a mission to improve my wardrobe and I my first thought seeing your post is that you have done exactly the opposite of what I'm trying to do... 😂

I would say you're good except for maybe one or two more sports jackets, since you don't use use a jacket in the office, but to increase your style variations.

Best!
 

maxalex

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Where are you specifically? I love Rota trousers in part because we have many retailers here in Italy who will fit you onsite MTM with them--less stockists in Northern Europe but they do have vendors in Germany and Belgium although not France or UK.

For MTM shirts, check out Proper Cloth, they ship everywhere.

Outerwear, sweaters, check back in the fall.
 

Snaap

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I am in Germany, have not seen a lot of Rota here but if you have any recommendations esp in the Frankfurt area - happy to hear about it.
thanks!
 

maxalex

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I am in Germany, have not seen a lot of Rota here but if you have any recommendations esp in the Frankfurt area - happy to hear about it.
thanks!
M&W Mode in Bad Soden stocks Rota.
 

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