Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[bamboo]

I have one Bel. I can see fusible. Fuse and unconstructed do not contradict I think.

 

[bdavro23]

I am about to commission an unstructured jacket that is going to be made exactly like a normal jacket, (front dart, side body panel, lined shoulder, etc) except without the guts (no canvas/ fusing). There may be a little lining in the chest area, but thats tbd. I am thinking felted cashmere, but havent decided yet.

If you're wondering why I wouldnt just get a soft coat with canvassing made, its that I want a really casual jacket that has a bit more shape than a cardigan, but is just as comfortable and easy to wear in a lot of different settings. The next iteration would be a half canvas I suppose, but i dont really have an interest in splitting hairs that finely.

The cost is obviously less than a fully canvassed garment as well, though cashmere would mitigate much of the savings...

 

[S K M]



I am about to commission an unstructured jacket that is going to be made exactly like a normal jacket, (front dart, side body panel, lined shoulder, etc) except without the guts (no canvas/ fusing). There may be a little lining in the chest area, but thats tbd. I am thinking felted cashmere, but havent decided yet. 

If you're wondering why I wouldnt just get a soft coat with canvassing made, its that I want a really casual jacket that has a bit more shape than a cardigan, but is just as comfortable and easy to wear in a lot of different settings. The next iteration would be a half canvas I suppose, but i dont really have an interest in splitting hairs that finely.

The cost is obviously less than a fully canvassed garment as well, though cashmere would mitigate much of the savings...

Funny, that's more or less exactly such a project I have in the works. I wanted something in between a cardigan and a jacket and opted for a shawl collar design. Definitely not for everyone but think it will be very useful. I didn't worry too much about the canvas but he uses very light canvas anyway. On the inside it will be self lined safe for a very small piece of silk in the shoulders. My jacket is made up from pure cashmere from the LL, I think it's around 18 oz and definitely both hefty and warm

Photo from my first fitting which was before the canvas even was attached. The collar/lapel will be narrowed slightly and the pockets will be regular patch pockets (no flaps).

 

[S K M]

Oh yes, and spell camicia, no vents and rounded quarters.

 

[brax]



I am looking to make a solaro suit for next summer. Do you have any idea where can i get a summer solaro suiting ? Smiths Woollens ?
I found this but not sure which cloth is it...Anybody knows ?
http://blazerandtie.tumblr.com/post/106711166322/vannikorea-solaro-suit-summer

Smith makes the original wool Solaro. There are four versions (2576, 2577, 2578, and either 2579 or 2575). They are all 11/12 oz.
You also have the option of trying Italian cotton Solaros as, for me, 11/12 oz wool in the summer is a bit much.

 

[Dinjango]

Not sure if this is the right question to ask here. I am going to make up my LL Agnelli tweed into a 3-piece. Usually for checks, how much pattern matching should there be between the vest and the coat? Just the horizontal lines?

 

[Concordia]

If you even got that, you'd be doing well.

Is this the grey check, or the brown/white POW?

 

[Dinjango]

Thanks Concordia for the reply.

That's the grey check. Don't think I am dandy enough for a 3-piece in the Agnelli POW

.

 

[emptym]

...
If you were to commission an unstructured jacket - no padding at shoulders, no canvas - which wool would drape and hold its structure best? I'm tempted by a 'cardi-jacket' for extra casual-osity, but don't want a limp rag.

I'm thinking a stiff or perhaps hairy tweed, like Harris. Structurelss wears cooler, so I can go for weights ( > 12 oz) I normally wouldn't consider.

I'd go for something softer and cuddlier than harris tweed. A few years ago I got some old stock flannel that NYRanger was helping a tailor's daughter to sell. I washed it to get out the dust and see if it would tighten up the fabric a bit to make it more wind resistant. It did, but it also made the fabric more texture. So I decided to see how it'd be as a deconstructed sportcoat. It has no padding, but it does have one layer canvas that is "floating" all the way up. In other words, it's only attached at the seams and buttonholes. Turned out very well imo:

Here's a couple pics I promised, ErikJN, etc.:



This is mainly for fall/winter travel and I'd usually wear the collar up, so buttons have been added or moved:

A closeup of the fabric:

I think people's pleat issues may have something to do with the cut. My pleats are only about 5/8" deep and they don't open up.

The latest button holes, on a sport coat made of flannel washed in hot water:

 

[Fishball]



I'd go for something softer and cuddlier than harris tweed.  A few years ago I got some old stock flannel that NYRanger was helping a tailor's daughter to sell.  I washed it to get out the dust and see if it would tighten up the fabric a bit to make it more wind resistant.  It did, but it also made the fabric more texture. So I decided to see how it'd be as a deconstructed sportcoat.  It has no padding, but it does have one layer canvas that is "floating" all the way up.  In other words, it's only attached at the seams and buttonholes.  Turned out very well imo:

 A closeup of the fabric:

Who make it, M?

 

[dan'l]



@ericgereghty @dieworkwear

We're a couple of guys at Skoaktiebolaget interested in the Slewfoot Tobacco Fresco.

WRT the brown fresco, is anyone following up on it? There was some chatter a few pages back about getting it launched and I haven't seen anything in the MTO section and was wondering if it was just some wishful tire kicking by us.

I am not trying to be critical of anyone and imagine that organizing any sort of custom run or MTO is time consuming, so just asking what the status is.

To be honest, I was secretly hoping that @dieworkwear would volunteer to organize a second run of the brown fresco. I missed out on the first one but participated on the silk/linen run and everything was well organized by him.

 

[Jaybarron]

WRT the brown fresco, is anyone following up on it? There was some chatter a few pages back about getting it launched and I haven't seen anything in the MTO section and was wondering if it was just some wishful tire kicking by us.

I am not trying to be critical of anyone and imagine that organizing any sort of custom run or MTO is time consuming, so just asking what the status is.

To be honest, I was secretly hoping that @dieworkwear would volunteer to organize a second run of the brown fresco. I missed out on the first one but participated on the silk/linen run and everything was well organized by him.

+1

 

[ericgereghty]

I can run with it. Would be my first time doing it, so I can't speak to the processes down the road (payment, etc), but I'll get something up.

Will be later in the week.

Edit: while we're at it, have we reached a consensus on which is preferred, the Slewfoot or DWW Fresco? Would anyone be opposed to be creating GMTOs for both? My thinking is that worst comes to worst, one doesn't get the required amount.

 

[brax]



Agree that you're just going to end up with a shirt jacket. I don't know if a Harris or linen is going to make that big of a difference in terms of shape, so long as the material isn't super loosely woven. FWIW, I have a few shirt jackets and find that a bit of fusible and shoulder padding can go a long way. P. Johnson does some of those "zero structure" designs. I think it works on some people (like Patrick himself), but it's not the most flattering thing on other guys. You have to have the right physique and character for it. If you do it, ask your tailor if he's going to cut a side body. Years ago, I thought about commissioning a shirt jacket with a separate side body because it seemed like you could get a bit more shape out of the waist. That'll mean that you'll have to go to a "traditional" tailor and not just a shirtmaker, which will drive up the cost. And you'll be paying for a whole lot of stuff that you're not getting, like that canvassing and structure inside. Might be worth trying on RTW brands that are similar (e.g. Barena) to see if you even like that zero structure look (I think Barena has no structure, but if not, it's pretty close). Anyway, I would probably go with a spring/ summer fabric. Maybe linen or something. I don't know about Bel y Cia's, but Justo Gimeno's Tebas have a bit of fusible in the chest and some shoulder padding. IMO, that's what makes them look a lot better than totally unstructured shirt jackets.

Today was a perfect day for my Justo Gimeno Teba so I shot a few photos to clarify a few things. There is zero fusing in the chest. The chest area is self lined as the wool is double-backed but there is no fusing between these two layers and no canvass. There is a bit of shoulder padding but very little.

 

[dieworkwear]



Today was a perfect day for my Justo Gimeno Teba so I shot a few photos to clarify a few things. There is zero fusing in the chest. The chest area is self lined as the wool is double-backed but there is no fusing between these two layers and no canvass. There is a bit of shoulder padding but very little.

I think your last photo is of the armhole?

To see the fusible, you have to look at the opening underneath the armhole (otherwise, you have to unpick the stitching at the armhole). Basically where the cloth folds over on itself to allow for interior pockets. On the reverse of the fold over, you'll find a black fusible. At least that's how it's constructed on mine.