The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[ZRH1]

thank you for your replies.

As for what I don't like about my C&J patents, it is the patent itself, as I like a muted look and a shiny shoe is not something I like, yet at the same time if I do Black Tie, I would like to have proper shoes and not settle for calf cap toe, hence the query about opera pumps.

As for EG's pump, I did not find that, as their search functions gave zero hits when inputting patent/pump(s).

 

[symphvaria]

As for EG's pump, I did not find that, as their search functions gave zero hits when inputting patent/pump(s).

It’s not available on their website. I suggest you email them directly or look around on the various online EG retailers for your size.

 

[Jay C]

Per Kirby Allison (link below), you'd likely have to go custom made to find an opera pump in calfskin rather than patent leather.

Like you, I don't like patent leather. I used to roll with the cap toe (I'm a strong shoe shiner). But more recently switched over to a plain toe, whole cut blucher (horrors!) that I think is a bit better for BT. No cap seam on the toe and no oxford seams going around the sides offsets (imo) the open laces (which are mostly covered by your pants anyway). Very smooth leather, so it high shines easily for BT. And ok for normal wear with a brush shine.

Kirby says you are good so long as it is black, shiny, sleek and plain. He'd tell you to go calfskin whole cut oxford. But I think a two or three eyelet plain toe derby calfskin (like Bond wears) looks pretty swank for BT.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Brooks Brothers makes opera pumps in both patent and calfskin…or they did. I have both. The calfskin pair were the more recent purchase about 3-4 years ago.

 

[hpreston]

I went with a black suede Belgian loafer.

Not to disagree with Mr Allison, but there are calfskin opera pumps available.

As Andy and Mark from
Plano said, Brooks carries them from time to time,

There’s these

Evening Opera Pump — F.E. Castleberry

Our signature evening opera pump in a black calf with a flat grosgrain ribbon Petersham bow. We believe black is for black tie, burials, and butlers. Pair these with a tuxedo, a white cutoff jean, and everything in between. Handmade in England Men’s Black Calfskin Flat grosgrain ribbon

fecastleberry.com

Im sure there’s others

 

[Mark from Plano]

Not to disagree with Mr Allison, but there are calfskin opera pumps available.

As I live in the Dallas area I’ve used Kirby’s shoe shine service from time to time…including once a couple of years ago when I took my calfskin opera pumps to him for a mirror shine.

Not that he does them himself. He has a guy…

 

[ValidusLA]

As referenced, St Crispins:

Black tails shoe "Opera" – calfskin

MJ'S DETAILS With Saint Crispin's I share something very special. When I visited the former founder Michael Rollig in my former workplace, the legendary Haberdasher Heinrich's more than 20 years ago, I was his first customer and thus accompany the product from the beginning.

en.michaeljondral.com

 

[acconrad]

i've got a Brooks bros opear pump in patent and its gangster. when else are you ever going to wear shiny shoes with bows on them? that's the ultimate "fvck yov deal with it" move you can make.

 

[The Chai]

I have a pair of black suede opera pumps I really love...but I also have like 5 pairs of opera pumps in different leathers.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

i've got a Brooks bros opear pump in patent and its gangster. when else are you ever going to wear shiny shoes with bows on them? that's the ultimate "fvck yov deal with it" move you can make.

I picked up a pair of the older Brooks Brothers opera pumps in patent as well. I assumed they would be a temporary solution until I found something I liked better. However, they’re great and I think they’ll do just fine. I have no plans to replace them.

 

[Johnmdub]

Going for a pair of wholecuts myself, I think. Have an uncomfortable pair of cap toe oxfords, so need something better for the wedding anyway. I think the wholecut will work well for me
Considering these Carlos Santos for Herring pair - they usually have a sale in late June, so hoping they’re included
https://www.herringshoes.co.uk/herring/chaucer_wholecuts

 

[Johnmdub]

Other options are the Meermin linea maestro, but haven’t had great experience with them, though the shoes look lovely the sizing is hard to get right for my wide feet

 

[Johnmdub]

i've got a Brooks bros opear pump in patent and its gangster. when else are you ever going to wear shiny shoes with bows on them? that's the ultimate "fvck yov deal with it" move you can make.

I like that - not sure I’d have the requisite confidence

 

[wilcthree]

Broadland Slippers makes patent and calfskin opera pumps. They made a pair for me back in March. Customizable and very fast turnaround. You can see the photos a few pages back. I had my pair recently mirror shined and they look great. https://www.broadlandslippers.co.uk/slippers/mens-patent-leather-evening-pumps/

 

[ericgereghty]

FWIW (not much), I'd go just about any acceptable/acceptable adjacent shoe over patent opera pumps. Not a fan of patent in general, but opera pumps would be lowest on the list.
I'd take calfskin pumps or wholecut oxfords in a heartbeat