Black blazer for going out downtown?

[abecedary]

First post! I need some advice, and it's a bit hard to explain what I want, even though I think I have a good idea about it....

I'm a middle-aged guy, regular build. I have a wide range of good tailored clothing. But right now, I am looking for a black blazer, something that I would wear if I were going out to a "nice" place in a major city.

I do not want something formal, e.g. a suit jacket worn on its own. But I also do want something that is an actual blazer/sport jacket, i.e. not something that's really just a heavy shirt or something like that. Nothing that is aggressively "stylish". This would be something to wear with, on the bottom, anything from jeans to some variety of tailored pants, and on the top, anything from a solid black T-shirt to a dress shirt (but without a tie). Basically, something that's appropriate when I need to be more dressed-up than a sweater, but less dressed-up than a suit or a jacket/tie. More stylish than a Brooks Brothers blue blazer. Let's say the archetypal occasion would be a first date at the best cocktail bar in a major city.

I would have expected this to be a fairly common item, but I don't know how to go about searching for it. I used to have a Kilgour jacket that was good for this, but it wore out (silk/wool; it was lovely but not very robust).

All suggestions gratefully received!

 

[bicycleradical]

I suggest getting a navy sportcoat instead. It'll work with a wider range of other pieces than one in black.

 

[abecedary]

I suggest getting a navy sportcoat instead. It'll work with a wider range of other pieces than one in black.

I have four or five navy sportcoats; I like them, and wear them for many occasions (obviously), but they aren't cool enough. I need something cool, for NYC, man!

 

[bicycleradical]

I have four or five navy sportcoats; I like them, and wear them for many occasions (obviously), but they aren't cool enough. I need something cool, for NYC, man!

I think navy sportcoats are cool. A brown one may suit your purposes as well. Black is difficult to wear.

 

[Sreezy36]

First post! I need some advice, and it's a bit hard to explain what I want, even though I think I have a good idea about it....

I'm a middle-aged guy, regular build. I have a wide range of good tailored clothing. But right now, I am looking for a black blazer, something that I would wear if I were going out to a "nice" place in a major city.

I do not want something formal, e.g. a suit jacket worn on its own. But I also do want something that is an actual blazer/sport jacket, i.e. not something that's really just a heavy shirt or something like that. Nothing that is aggressively "stylish". This would be something to wear with, on the bottom, anything from jeans to some variety of tailored pants, and on the top, anything from a solid black T-shirt to a dress shirt (but without a tie). Basically, something that's appropriate when I need to be more dressed-up than a sweater, but less dressed-up than a suit or a jacket/tie. More stylish than a Brooks Brothers blue blazer. Let's say the archetypal occasion would be a first date at the best cocktail bar in a major city.

I would have expected this to be a fairly common item, but I don't know how to go about searching for it. I used to have a Kilgour jacket that was good for this, but it wore out (silk/wool; it was lovely but not very robust).

All suggestions gratefully received!

A couple of options you may wan to consider

1. Black velvet jacket : can double as both a sports jacket and dinner jacket during cooler weather night events

2.black linen jacket: black linen is pretty cool looking. That would be your jacket for warm weather.

black velvet jacket review: (double breasted version)

Permanent Style

The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cifonelli

www.permanentstyle.com

black Velvet jacket featured in cocktail attire post:

Permanent Style

Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of evening wear

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

I would always recommend navy over black. If you ask here, most forum members will say the same. Black is notoriously difficult to pull off without looking like a waiter, security guard, limo driver, or wannabe rockstar. Go with navy over black every time. I own over 40 suits, navy and gray, and not a single black item to be seen save for a black suit with blue stripes.

I don’t really wear sports coats ever but navy would be my go-to color. I would never wear black.

 

[abecedary]

Thanks. I guess this doesn't make much sense to me; when I'm in NYC (which is not where I'm from, I should acknowledge), it feels like everyone is wearing all black all the time. And they don't look like waiters.

@Sreezy36 I do actually have a black velvet jacket, and I like it, but it feels too formal most of the time. Linen is the opposite problem; if it's warm enough to wear linen, I'm not as concerned about looking "downtown chic".

Going back to my original post: "the archetypal occasion would be a first date at the best cocktail bar in a major city". I just don't see a blue sport coat working like this, but maybe I'm looking at the wrong ones....

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

Just because everyone is wearing black all the time doesn’t mean it’s a good look.

Navy is a much more forgiving, versatile color. Look at every president in recent times, they all wear navy. Not black.

We’re not talking about royal blue or medium blue which is not as versatile. We are talking about navy - a very, very dark shade of blue. I think you’re looking at the wrong sport coats.

 

[skalogre]

To give you an in-between option, what I would suggest is something with lots of texture or a subtle pattern (eg subtle amber windowpane), even if black. And soft construction to make it look less like an orphaned suit jacket, if you care about that. Most people outside this echo chamber of ours will not tell the difference between a sportcoat, odd jacket, or suit.
Anyway, think Boglioli K Jacket or Barena's usual completely unpadded build.

Edit: the only reason I don't go for black usually is that depending on the shade it can have a weird greenish cast in some artificial light. Extremely dark blue or charcoal can be close enough without such problems.

 

[ladislav.jancik]

Just ignore the "navy" recommendations, I think most here don't understand your point about a "stylish" jacket you need. I think something like this (could be SB too) might be perfect for you: A glossy black wool cashmere blend from Piacenza:

 

[abecedary]

Thanks for the specific suggestions that are now coming in! I thought it was clear from my original post that looking like "every president in recent times" is very much *not* what am shooting for.

To give you an in-between option, what I would suggest is something with lots of texture or a subtle pattern (eg subtle amber windowpane), even if black. And soft construction to make it look less like an orphaned suit jacket, if you care about that. Most people outside this echo chamber of ours will not tell the difference between a sportcoat, odd jacket, or suit.
Anyway, think Boglioli K Jacket or Barena's usual completely unpadded build.

Edit: the only reason I don't go for black usually is that depending on the shade it can have a weird greenish cast in some artificial light. Extremely dark blue or charcoal can be close enough without such problems.

This is very useful. Yes, a soft construction would make sense.

I suppose I would be open to a so-midnight-blue-it's-really-black option, but I guess the original issue would still hold, that it would still need to look like a cool jacket and not an orphaned suit jacket. I'm not wild about a subtle windowpane (in this context, at least; in general I'm a big fan of subtle windowpanes), but good texture could give me the look I (think I) want.

 

[Rbpp]

Cavour (a forum sponsor) has a nice black jacket that could fit the bill, soft shoulder construction, 3r2, patch pockets etc

Mod 2 Lambswool Twill Jacket

Our Cavour Model 2 Jacket features a soft shoulder, also known as a Spalla Camicia in Italian. Three roll two buttoning with rounded patch pockets and a wide lapel. The high armholes allow for good range of motion, and when you put on the jacket it feels like a warm embrace. Made with a...

cavour.co

 

[joorinainen]

"First post! I need some advice, and it's a bit hard to explain what I want, even though I think I have a good idea about it....
I'm a middle-aged guy, regular build. I have a wide range of good tailored clothing. But right now, I am looking for a black blazer, something that I would wear if I were going out to a "nice" place in a major city."

You are searching for cocktail attire. This is in my opinion a nice look for cocktails and dinner ending up in a club. I would lose the belt and go with a softer shoulder jacket but these are personal preferences.

The art of dressing well comes partially from understanding the venues you are going to go and company you are going to spend time with. You don't want to be too formal or not too relaxed.

 

[TheIronDandy]

I think the classic menswear crowd is overly negative towards black. Clothing is mainly a social thing (what "looks good" and/or "is cool" is defined by the people around us), and while black may have been inappropriate when many of the rules of CM was written, black is definitely mainstream today.

That being said, a black jacket comes with some challenges: it can easily look like you took the jacket of your only suit (black, because everyone wears black) and tried to wear it casually. It can also look cheap and a bit cheesy.

In my experience, the best thing to do is to make sure you wear it in a material (and if possible, in a cut) that doesn't scream "jacket from my only suit". Cashmere can be great - the sublte sheen of it also reduces the risk of it looking cheap. Tweed is also an option, simply because (almost) noone wears a black tweed suit. Patch pockets can further help reduce the risk that it looks like an orphaned suit jacket - soft construction will help further with this.

A friend of mine had a double-breasted jacket done in black camelhair - soft construction, patch pockets and a drape cut. He mostly wears it unbuttoned, as a "very luxurious cardigan", and it's probably his most worn piece of tailoring (for reference, he works at a bespoke tailor, so he knows "the rules" and knows how to break them). Personally, I keep considering a black cashmere jacket for cocktail wear, but alas I find I don't get invited to enough cocktail parties to justify it.

 

[joorinainen]

I think the classic menswear crowd is overly negative towards black. Clothing is mainly a social thing (what "looks good" and/or "is cool" is defined by the people around us), and while black may have been inappropriate when many of the rules of CM was written, black is definitely mainstream today.

That being said, a black jacket comes with some challenges: it can easily look like you took the jacket of your only suit (black, because everyone wears black) and tried to wear it casually. It can also look cheap and a bit cheesy.

In my experience, the best thing to do is to make sure you wear it in a material (and if possible, in a cut) that doesn't scream "jacket from my only suit". Cashmere can be great - the sublte sheen of it also reduces the risk of it looking cheap. Tweed is also an option, simply because (almost) noone wears a black tweed suit. Patch pockets can further help reduce the risk that it looks like an orphaned suit jacket - soft construction will help further with this.

A friend of mine had a double-breasted jacket done in black camelhair - soft construction, patch pockets and a drape cut. He mostly wears it unbuttoned, as a "very luxurious cardigan", and it's probably his most worn piece of tailoring (for reference, he works at a bespoke tailor, so he knows "the rules" and knows how to break them). Personally, I keep considering a black cashmere jacket for cocktail wear, but alas I find I don't get invited to enough cocktail parties to justify it.

Great post. Black is also hard color to master if you are not seasoned dresser while everyone can pull off a navy jacket.