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Shawl Collar: Stemkeeper with no Buttonhole?


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Apr 7, 2024
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I've used this forum for quite some time as a guest, but only now have created an account to ask a question I've had for a while:

How does one use a stemkeeper thread on a shawl collar dinner jacket? I've read on several forum posts that some traditional DJs have a stemkeeper loop on the underside of the collar in the absence of a buttonhole, so the user may wear a boutonniere without disrupting the smooth flow of the collar.

Assuming the boutonniere has a roped thread, is there a traditional way to specifically tie them to the loop?

I'm purchasing a shawl DJ in the near future and I like the look without the buttonhole, but I'd still like the ability to use a boutonniere in a pinch (without cutting flowers and using magnets ;)).



Sep 22, 2007
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Welcome to the forum! I'd never heard of such a thing (loop w/o buttonhole), but the AAAC link you sent has a post by member @A Harris, who knows his stuff. He wrote there:
A lot of older, custom shawl collared dinner jackets are done up with a boutonniere loop at the back of the lapel, but no buttonhole. I assume the flower is worn at a bit of an angle, stem tucked into the loop, bud protruding from the back of the lapel.
And that sounds right to me. But you might get more answers if you posted here:
@Despos is also likely to know.

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