Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[David Reeves]

Some nice Loro Piana Proposte Giacca this season, quite 60/70s looking.

Except for the grey these are being made up at the moment, I'm doing the red and the large birds eye type cloth.

 

[Concordia]



Some nice Loro Piana Proposte Giacca this season, quite 60/70s looking.

Now there's an oxymoron!

 

[Andy57]

Some nice Loro Piana Proposte Giacca this season, quite 60/70s looking.









Except for the grey these are being made up at the moment, I'm doing the red and the large birds eye type cloth.

That red!

 

[OxfordDon]



Have you checked out Abraham Moon's books?  I would bet pretty good money on that first tweed being Moon.  If anyone has a lead on a gunclub fabric like the second one above (dark, rich undertone, highlights across the spectrum from blue-orange), point me that way. 

I know this has been asked before, but I'm not sure I've ever seen an answer. Does Moon sell to the general public at all? I've never been able to get them to do it with me.

 

[TweedyProf]

Ok, some help needed for spring/summer jacket cloths. This should be simpler than the herringbone (the plot thickens on that one)

This is the color I'm aiming for, a mid blue that is lighter than standard navy to replace a coat I once had in this color:



Here's a suggested replacement:





14809 would be a no brainer except that @Murlsquirl who got the solid green in that bunch made up noted to me that it runs a bit hot for what you might expect for that weight. Perhaps the weave is a bit tighter.

Another option is a chunky hopsack in the same color, something with a more defined texture. I'm disinclined to use pure linen, but mixes are ok. Would be nice if wearable in typical, not oppressively humid, NE summers. Or, if you've made up the above (09) and find it wearable into the low 80s, that would be useful to know.

 

[Murlsquirl]

I ordered a jacket in 14821 too. That cloth can still be a 2 1/2 - 3 season jacket for most people. It's just not something I'd want to be wearing in 75-80f weather...then again, I don't really want to wear a jacket at all in that heat. All in all, it does wear a bit warmer than the weight would lead you to believe...such an awesome bunch though.

 

[dieworkwear]



Ok, some help needed for spring/summer jacket cloths. This should be simpler than the herringbone (the plot thickens on that one) This is the color I'm aiming for, a mid blue that is lighter than standard navy to replace a coat I once had in this color:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Here's a suggested replacement: 14809 would be a no brainer except that @Murlsquirl who got the solid green in that bunch made up noted to me that it runs a bit hot for what you might expect for that weight. Perhaps the weave is a bit tighter. Another option is a chunky hopsack in the same color, something with a more defined texture. I'm disinclined to use pure linen, but mixes are ok. Would be nice if wearable in typical, not oppressively humid, NE summers. Or, if you've made up the above (09) and find it wearable into the low 80s, that would be useful to know.

Delfino has some wool-hemp blends that are nice.

 

[lordsuperb]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Ok, some help needed for spring/summer jacket cloths. This should be simpler than the herringbone (the plot thickens on that one) This is the color I'm aiming for, a mid blue that is lighter than standard navy to replace a coat I once had in this color: Here's a suggested replacement: 14809 would be a no brainer except that @Murlsquirl who got the solid green in that bunch made up noted to me that it runs a bit hot for what you might expect for that weight. Perhaps the weave is a bit tighter. Another option is a chunky hopsack in the same color, something with a more defined texture. I'm disinclined to use pure linen, but

mixes are ok. Would be nice if wearable in typical, not oppressively humid, NE summers. Or, if you've made up the above (09) and find it wearable into the low 80s, that would be useful to know.

Harrison's of Edinburgh Icarus

 

[Concordia]



Harrison's of Edinburgh Icarus

Or Mirage, if you run a little cooler or have a decent breeze.

 

[TweedyProf]

@dieworkwear @lordsuperb @Concordia

Thanks. If you've had something made up in those fabrics and can comment on how they wear, drape, hold up etc. that would be useful too.

 

[chobochobo]

The made for kiton wool/ cashmere linen blends that Ed has been selling are pretty good for autumn, in HK anyway.

 

[Concordia]



@dieworkwear
  @lordsuperb
 @Concordia
 

Thanks. If you've had something made up in those fabrics and can comment on how they wear, drape, hold up etc. that would be useful too. 

I do have a Mirage jacket. Not especially cool to wear, and when Rave cleaned it, they remarked on how much dog hair was found in it. (My wife's dog doesn't shed.) Still, nice color and tasteful patterns. Drapes wonderfully well-- the tailor liked it.

 

[Dinjango]

Ok, some help needed for spring/summer jacket cloths. This should be simpler than the herringbone (the plot thickens on that one)

This is the color I'm aiming for, a mid blue that is lighter than standard navy to replace a coat I once had in this color:



Here's a suggested replacement:





14809 would be a no brainer except that @Murlsquirl who got the solid green in that bunch made up noted to me that it runs a bit hot for what you might expect for that weight. Perhaps the weave is a bit tighter.

Another option is a chunky hopsack in the same color, something with a more defined texture. I'm disinclined to use pure linen, but mixes are ok. Would be nice if wearable in typical, not oppressively humid, NE summers. Or, if you've made up the above (09) and find it wearable into the low 80s, that would be useful to know.

How about the w/s/l from Caccioppoli's summer jacketing range? (http://merinobrothers.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=109_110)

Quite lightweight, but drapes pretty well.

 

[dieworkwear]



@dieworkwear
  @lordsuperb
 @Concordia
 

Thanks. If you've had something made up in those fabrics and can comment on how they wear, drape, hold up etc. that would be useful too. 

I have a cut length of Delfino 1937. Haven't had it made up yet, but will next year.

@gdl203 at NMWA used Delfino 1936 for a run of Formosa jackets. He could probably speak more to it.

 

[dan'l]



I know this has been asked before, but I'm not sure I've ever seen an answer. Does Moon sell to the general public at all? I've never been able to get them to do it with me.

No, they do not. Or at least not yet. I was told that they will be launching an online shop soon.