Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[TweedyProf]

@Mr. Six

Just to chime in as challenges are fun.

From a distance, I suppose the jacket looks like taupe, a muddy grey/brown. Don't get me wrong, I have a jacket that fits that description, but it's desaturated and sort of in this odd middle ground that Urban describes which makes trouser pairing harder. Dark trousers aren't going to cut it, I think, since it just adds to the muddiness, and similarly overly saturated trousers might be difficult. But lighter and similarly desaturated trousers might work, say some sort of lighter olive. I'm with Helden and others on cream or fawn/oatmeal.

On ties: I'm not sure very saturated colors in the blue tie are working for the jacket, IMO. It's a bit jarring. Stick with solids, or at least not small scale patterns. A slate blue would be better, but you have to adjust saturation to get it right while also keeping it on the darker end of the color wheel (altering two parameters, saturation and brightness accordingly). Again, a green, with similar properties would be good, towards desaturated but darker so as to stand against the jacket (rust, burgundy worth considering too).. Some of those coarse hopsack Cappelli's you've been considering might be nice. Sorry, I don't have the pics saved on the SF server

Slate blue:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BAzXynKAr7X/?taken-by=tweedyprof

Greens

https://www.instagram.com/p/-eFgRiArxr/?taken-by=tweedyprof

 

[tchoy]



Any experience with Fratelli Tallia di Delfino Brughiera? I've come across a couple of photos that look interesting:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I'd be interested in how it makes up and how it wears.

Also, I can't find any mention of the Brughiera book on the web site, so I wonder if it might have been discontinued.

I like the cloth a lot it's a lighter weight for our mild Sydney autumn winter feels very soft, the book have some great patterns.

 

[forex]

Tchoy, that's a nice looking jacket but I think you would benefit from some shoulder roping, your shoulders seem very slopped and it looks like your recent jackets all have natural shoulders, which accentuates how slopped your shoulders are. It is not a particularly good look for you, in my opinion.

 

[Murlsquirl]



Tchoy, that's a nice looking jacket but I think you would benefit from some shoulder roping, your shoulders seem very slopped and it looks like your recent jackets all have natural shoulders, which accentuates how slopped your shoulders are. It is not a particularly good look for you, in my opinion.

I was thinking the exact opposite...I think it looks great. Different strokes I suppose...

 

[cchen]



I was thinking the exact opposite...I think it looks great. Different strokes I suppose...

Same here...

 

[TweedyProf]

@tchoy I love that jacket.

As some of you might be interested in the cloths, Matthew and Edwin have provided me some pics. Three choices, Harris Tweed, P&G Glenroyal, and H&S Tweed

I think the Glenroyal pales in comparison to the others, so my thinking is between the first and third. I've two other swatches of Harris Tweed and H&S Tweed that are a bit too rust (orange). Based on my memory the Glenroyal is true to life when I visited Steed in London in July and matches pics I still have. It comes off as, well, taupe and lacks the richness and depth of the other cloths. Edwin kindly photographed the cloths against mid-grey and fawn flannels. The first photo of the P&H is pretty true to life, but of course, take photos with a little pinch of salt.

I'm more inclined to the H&S (11oz) but have to admit, still tempted by the Harris Tweed.











Rustier ones





Perhaps the H&S were what @edmorel had in mind when I asked him via PM.

Please do weigh in.

 

[bdavro23]

I was thinking the exact opposite...I think it looks great. Different strokes I suppose...

^ I agree, it looks great to me.

 

[edmorel]

Sherrytweed I find slightly less coarse than Harris Tweed, not by much though.

For a brown herringbone I would probably suggest this, its brown with a slight rust undertone in the herringbone (and the green one above it ain't bad either):



This is a rust herringbone with brown undertones:




Sherrycash is mostly a wool/cashmere blend book so its softer, more luxe feeling. It has a light brown heringbone which is similat to what you can find in many books:



It does have some great earthtone plaids:

 

[zr3rs]

I'm more inclined to the H&S (11oz) but have to admit, still tempted by the Harris Tweed.



Please do weigh in.

I have a jacket in the 10oz SherryTweed and I like it a lot. The surface feels like tweed, but it is much lighter (more modern and suitable for office wear). It does not drape like a HarrisTweed, but it is also far from the smoothness of SherryKash (which also has nice herringbones, btw). But it does not compare at all to the thickness and weight of a classic tweed. I would not wear a Harris Tweed in the office or other centrally heated buildings, for me it would be in the outerwear category...

 

[TweedyProf]

Thanks @edmorel and @zr3rs

I'm likely to go with the H&S 883204 which is what Ed is recommending and what I was gravitating towards anyway. The scale is a bit bigger than the Glenroyal and it has a nice richness to the color, the rust undertones being a nice bonus. It's got the coarse appearance as with the Harris but probably more suited for office wear in terms of weight. Taking @poorsod 's point about weight and drape, I do wish it were a touch heavier but it sounds like it will wear comfortably in the office in the winter.

 

[brax]



Both would definitely be assets to me, since I tend to run cold and I would have to use them for riding my bike to and from work (I know, not exactly extending their lifetime). But thanks for your inputs!

I had the same conversation with my tailor regarding Fox versus Minnis. For trousers we chose Minnis because of their better durability.

 

[lordsuperb]



@tchoy

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I love that jacket. As some of you might be interested in the cloths, Matthew and Edwin have provided me some pics. Three choices, Harris Tweed, P&G Glenroyal, and H&S Tweed I think the Glenroyal pales in comparison to the others, so my thinking is between the first and third. I've two other swatches of Harris Tweed and H&S Tweed that are a bit too rust (orange). Based on my memory the Glenroyal is true to life when I visited Steed in London in July and matches pics I still have. It comes off as, well, taupe and lacks the richness and depth of the other cloths. Edwin kindly photographed the cloths against mid-grey and fawn flannels. The first photo of the P&H is pretty true to life, but of course, take photos with a little pinch of salt. I'm more inclined to the H&S (11oz) but have to admit, still tempted by the Harris Tweed. [COLOR=A74345] [/COLOR] Rustier ones Perhaps the H&S were what @edmorel had in mind when I asked him via PM.

Please do weigh in.

Are you dead set on herringbone? W.bill has a donegal book with two dark brown fabrics that need to be seen in person to get the full affect.

 

[Coxsackie]

My Minnis 0656 flannel is now fully funded. What a stellar cloth it is too.

Fit pics to follow eventually - I tried the suit on quickly last night (fit is great BTW) but will be travelling for the next week or so.

 

[TweedyProf]

Are you dead set on herringbone? W.bill has a donegal book with two dark brown fabrics that need to be seen in person to get the full affect.

Not dead set but one of the above HBs before a donegal (though a steel blue donegal appeals to me...Cappelli has a donegal fabric in that color which, I suspect, is from the W. Bill book).

I will add one donegal to the mix, though it's a bit lighter than I wanted but tempting. If memory serves me correctly, I found a lot of the brown and green swatches in the book too "confetti-ish" when I looked at it this summer at Steed (e.g. the swatch below the brown which I thought was fairly staid in the speckling).



I might get the top swatch made up someday.

 

[TweedyProf]

One more donegal for the gallery (the second swatch from above):