Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

Thanks! I agree Fox is pricey but it's easily available through my tailor for much cheaper, so that's why I landed on that as opposed to the Taylor & Lodge. I'm certainly open to to the T&L.

Any chance you could post a photo of the Fox heritage hopsack against the Taylor & Lodge dark navy? I have a feeling that midnight Fox is just going to be too damn dark for me.

it was from pre-covid, so I need to see if its still hanging around the swatch basket...

Also, I would email your tailor or maybe Fox Bros directly to see if they can send you some swatches...even if it costs you $15-20 in shipping, its probably a worthy investment if you side step purchasing a blazer that is too dark for your intended purposes

 

[Spaghettimatt]

it was from pre-covid, so I need to see if its still hanging around the swatch basket...

Also, I would email your tailor or maybe Fox Bros directly to see if they can send you some swatches...even if it costs you $15-20 in shipping, its probably a worthy investment if you side step purchasing a blazer that is too dark for your intended purposes

Already done for all the fabrics I linked in my original post! I suppose I should reach out to Fox to see if they have any other shades not listed online though (like the missing FS27 dark navy in Fox Sport).

 

[classicalthunde]

Already done for all the fabrics I linked in my original post! I suppose I should reach out to Fox to see if they have any other shades not listed online though (like the missing FS27 dark navy in Fox Sport).

ahh, i see, sorry misread on my part

 

[JohnMRobie]

I don't have any personal experience with the H&S fabric, but I think your skepticism is justified. 125 gm/4 oz seems awfully light. The Scabal version is more than double the weight.

The scabal version was excluded as it isn’t as slubby (and is also multiple times as expensive as the H&S) If I opt for something that isn’t as slubby and is still a pure silk I’d go for the LP.

 

[Master Shake]

The scabal version was excluded as it isn’t as slubby (and is also multiple times as expensive as the H&S) If I opt for something that isn’t as slubby and is still a pure silk I’d go for the LP.

I wasn't suggesting that you consider the Scabal version. I referred to it to try to point out how much of an outlier the H&S fabric is in terms of weight.

 

[hpreston]

Watched this



now I’m thinking about another tweed sport coat….

 

[Sreezy36]

Watched this



now I’m thinking about another tweed sport coat….

This site displays a decent look at all of the current Lovat tweed bunch books in case anyone is interested. Only downside is that it is in Japanese.

｢ラバット｣｢ホルム｣ジャケットコレクション｡｜オーダースーツ＆ジャケット・シャツのテーラー渡辺

｢ラバット｣｢ホルム｣ジャケットコレクション｡｜オーダースーツ＆ジャケット オリジナル・オーダーメイドショップ テーラー渡辺

www.tailorwatanabe.com

 

[JHWilliams]

I'm wondering if you guys can help me out with Fox hopsacks, as I'm about to commission a dark navy blazer and have easy access to Fox. Working off the Merchant Fox website, it seems like Fox has three different weights/qualities of hopsack:

1. 450/480g vintage Connoiseur's hopsack which is available online only in Midnight;
2. 400/430g Worsted Classics hopsack which is available in Dark Navy;
3. 320/350g Fox Sport hopsack which is available online in Midnight (FS26) and Bright Navy (FS28), though I've seen the book and I know Dark Navy exists as well. (FS27)

I want something year-round except dead of summer and I'm thinking Fox Sport is going to be too light at 320/350, so that leaves the 450/480 or 400/430 options. I'm inclined toward the heavier 450/480 option but am concerned midnight is going to be too dark for my tastes. I think this Dalcuore is the 450g midnight and that is very dark:

So: does anyone know if there's a more traditional dark navy option available at 450/480g? Alternatively, does anyone have experience with the worsted classics option at 400/430g? Any comparisons between the two?

The new fox worsted bunch has a very dry handle (not very smooth to the touch).

London Lounge recently did a run of dark Navy Mistral Hopsack (this is exactly what you are looking for). I would send Michael an email and see if he had any left.

 

[jonathanS]

The new fox worsted bunch has a very dry handle (not very smooth to the touch).

London Lounge recently did a run of dark Navy Mistral Hopsack (this is exactly what you are looking for). I would send Michael an email and see if he had any left.

How would you compare mistral with the ultimate navy blazer fabric?

i just realized that the mistral is an 8ply angora and lambswool.

 

[JHWilliams]

How would you compare mistral with the ultimate navy blazer fabric?

i just realized that the mistral is an 8ply angora and lambswool.

Mistral is a worsted with a beautiful hand and weave. I have just commissioned a double breasted navy blazer with brass buttons.

I also have the ultimate navy blazer in a three roll two. It is definitely more of a casual cloth that feels like a cardigan. I love it.

 

[Despos]

Has anyone had anything made up in the dupioni in the Black Tie book from H&S who can share feedback on how it tailored/wears? View attachment 1895455
Working through options for a DB shawl dinner jacket.

LP has an option in Mare as well but it looks less slubby/interesting. View attachment 1895457

There’s also a fairly slubby WSL in the Caccioppoli suit bunch for this summer that they just released in ivory as well that’s sort of in between the two.
Dupioni is the leader in the clubhouse but a little skeptical of the weight.

Think the H&S silk is single width,30" wide not 60" like most cloth.
When you double the cloth, it's 8 ounces per yard.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I'm wondering if you guys can help me out with Fox hopsacks, as I'm about to commission a dark navy blazer and have easy access to Fox. Working off the Merchant Fox website, it seems like Fox has three different weights/qualities of hopsack:

1. 450/480g vintage Connoiseur's hopsack which is available online only in Midnight;
2. 400/430g Worsted Classics hopsack which is available in Dark Navy;
3. 320/350g Fox Sport hopsack which is available online in Midnight (FS26) and Bright Navy (FS28), though I've seen the book and I know Dark Navy exists as well. (FS27)

I want something year-round except dead of summer and I'm thinking Fox Sport is going to be too light at 320/350, so that leaves the 450/480 or 400/430 options. I'm inclined toward the heavier 450/480 option but am concerned midnight is going to be too dark for my tastes. I think this Dalcuore is the 450g midnight and that is very dark:

So: does anyone know if there's a more traditional dark navy option available at 450/480g? Alternatively, does anyone have experience with the worsted classics option at 400/430g? Any comparisons between the two?

I reached out to Fox and here's an update for the benefit of the thread:

1. The 450/480g regular navy was discontinued. There's only midnight now.
2. In Fox Sports (320/350g) the dark navy (FS27) was discontinued. There's only midnight and bright navy now.

I've ordered swatches from Fox of all the hopsacks they have but I might end up going with Taylor & Lodge after all if none of the midnight Fox shades speak to me.

 

[Despos]

Think the H&S silk is single width,30" wide not 60" like most cloth.
When you double the cloth, it's 8 ounces per yard.

Verified with the sample. 140cm/55" wide cloth. 4 ounces.
Width is determined by the loom used to weave the cloth.
It's pretty light weight.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Verified with the sample. 140cm/55" wide cloth. 4 ounces.
Width is determined by the loom used to weave the cloth.
It's pretty light weight.

Thanks for checking - The card I had said 140cm but 8oz would have been a nice surprise.

 

[JBadio]

I have only worked with three bespoke tailors. Two on savile row and one in the USA. I did a lot of research before making the bespoke plunge (and clearly didn’t do enough)

the very first tailor was based out of the USA: very expensive adequate work. Lesson learned.
The second tailor was far less expensive (adequate work as well). Lesson learned.

then I met Steven Hitchcock. I will never use anyone else.

Would the former happen to be based out in the USA but a satellite for a sortoria in Europe?