Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[hymo]

My tailor insisted on as much lining as cloth.

 

[orlagu]

Guys, quick question: I bought this piece of fabric without checking with the seller first, and now he told me 1.15m would not be enough for a pair of flat front, slim fit, non-cuff pants. True or false?

FYI I'm a 38R, 5'9" (176cm), waist 34" (86cm), inseam 31" (78cm), outseam 40" (102cm).

 

[alliswell]

You need 1.4m.

 

[alliswell]

Originally Posted by Tidybeard

I visited Bateman Ogden in Bradford today (a cloth lover's paradise) and came away with some lovely 20oz dark brown herringbone tweed and some light brown moleskin.

I'm going to have some trousers made from the moleskin but am still undecided on the tweed. I do want a jacket and first thought was a standardish 2B with patch pockets but I'm not sure. Perhaps an above the knee 4B ghillie collar coat?

I have 2.6m and am a 44, would love to hear/see some suggestions.

Many thanks.

I have a 19oz Allsport made up as 3r2 w/ three patch pockets.

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...16#post3635316

 

[braised]

Originally Posted by Gent

Huntsman disagrees. As do I, to be honest.

Point heard. Huntsman seeks to stand out and accomplishes it very well.

If your goal is to be outstanding and remarkable, then by all means, Huntsman may suit you very well.

This is a matter of horses for courses. If your view of "country" is a race meet at Newmarket, a hunt breakfast in the home counties, or a lecture at the Bod in Oxford, then a Huntsman tweed excels. If you're looking to have a pint at a country pub in Wales, Norfolk or points beyond, then you loose points for the flash in proportion to what you gained in the prior examples.

As for the city, the strong shilouette works well, but I always find a smooth worsted to be more appropriate. There being an exception to every rule, flannels rule in the city for texture, tweeds do not.

You can swim the otherway on either point and come off very stylish. Indeed, Huntsman is style personified. It's just that such style stands out more in certain places than others.

If your goal is to be outstanding, then have at it.

Now I love the cloth, simply adore it. Want it, I do. But a city-cut jacket I would not make.

Don't forget the old britishism, FIFO,
Braised

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by alliswell

I have a 19oz Allsport made up as 3r2 w/ three patch pockets.

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...16#post3635316

What's the other cloth in that post? The beach shepherd?

 

[Slewfoot]

Originally Posted by TRINI

What's the other cloth in that post? The beach shepherd?

It's from the Harrison Glorious Twelfth book. I've considered making it up, but decided I wanted a real tweed Gun Club.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

It's from the Harrison Glorious Twelfth book. I've considered making it up, but decided I wanted a real tweed Gun Club.
Cheers. What did you end up getting? I'm having a hard time nailing down a brown-toned check fabric (hence all the questions).

 

[Slewfoot]

Haven't decided yet. The W. Bill one below is always on my mind, but Michael Alden at LL is making a new City Gun Club. Here's a link to the thread which sounds like it could be promising: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...php?f=2&t=9891

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Haven't decided yet. The W. Bill one below is always on my mind, but Michael Alden at LL is making a new City Gun Club. Here's a link to the thread which sounds like it could be promising: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...php?f=2&t=9891

That's a very nice one. Reminds me of a Southwich for Paul Stuart tweed that I sold recently.

That LL GC looks amazing! I might need someone to proxy me a length.

 

[Slewfoot]

^ I could proxy if need be, but it's easy enough to sign up to be a member on Michael's site. Then just email him the fabric you want. Keep in mind that City Gun Club will have a crimson as opposed to a blue one. They're still testing it and a new version should be out in a few weeks.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

^ I could proxy if need be, but it's easy enough to sign up to be a member on Michael's site. Then just email him the fabric you want. Keep in mind that City Gun Club will have a crimson as opposed to a blue one. They're still testing it and a new version should be out in a few weeks.
I think I 'applied' to sign up but never heard anything back. I am not worthy.

EDIT: Well, I'll be. I just re-registered and got through.

 

[medtech_expat]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

^ I could proxy if need be, but it's easy enough to sign up to be a member on Michael's site. Then just email him the fabric you want. Keep in mind that City Gun Club will have a crimson as opposed to a blue one. They're still testing it and a new version should be out in a few weeks.

I've been following that LL thread closely; unfortunately, I have difficulty visualizing how the fabric would look once made up, given that the swatch is fairly small yet large in scale.

 

[NewYorkIslander]

What makes the LL cloth so god damn expensive? I asked about the last gun club they did and was quoted a price like $450 for 2 meters (maybe I'm misremembering).

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger

What makes the LL cloth so god damn expensive? I asked about the last gun club they did and was quoted a price like $450 for 2 meters (maybe I'm misremembering).

I'm assuming it's because of the small run they do for each batch.