Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[tim_horton]

1kg LL Cashmere is a blazer fabric, not a coating fabric of course.

On a related note, what are good jacketing bunches for a three-ish season jacket?
I think I might move away from green tweed towards something like 350 to 400 ish grams jacketing, so like 13/14 ish oz?

Caccioppoli is my favorite single source of jacketing. Dedicated spring/summer and fall/winter books, get refreshed every year, and a great mix of solids and interesting patterns.

Harrison's Moonbeam is a close second but I don't know if it's undergoing an update or in the process of being cancelled as they aren't all listed on the webpage. It's soft to the touch but durable and also has a nice range of patterns and colors.

Fox Brothers have a few nice jacketing books, with Sports Jacketing and Somerset Jacketing probably being the closest to the weight range you're looking for (Fox Tweed may be too heavy.). I just commissioned something from the Sports Jacketing book. It seemed comparable to Moonbeam.

Anglo-Italian's Tessuti fabrics has some very nice jacketing fabrics in various weights. And they just came out with a Tessuti 2. I really like their glen plaids. They have a GREAT green one that I made up.

FWIW I usually do not like genuine tweeds or their faux tweed variants, they tend to be too heavy/bulky and make me feel like I'm wandering in from a duck hunt.

 

[ericgereghty]

**I** would know... and the knowledge would gnaw at me.


My biggest issue with the blazer suit is it isn't an optimal suit or jacket. A navy suit with patch pockets just looks odd to me, even more odd than a navy sports coat with flapped or jetted pockets in smooth worsted wool. Basically I'd rather use an orphaned navy suit jacket as a blazer than have a blazer suit made.

Oh, of course I agree...but we could be credibly accused of being just a wee bit neurotic about clothing lol

 

[tim_horton]

Oh, of course I agree...but we could be credibly accused of being just a wee bit neurotic about clothing lol

Ha ha I agree completely. But I think the origin of the blazer suit was based on this neuroticism. Then again, so is my dislike of patch pockets on suits so I'm not casting stones.

 

[wozniak]

**I** would know... and the knowledge would gnaw at me.


My biggest issue with the blazer suit is it isn't an optimal suit or jacket. A navy suit with patch pockets just looks odd to me, even more odd than a navy sports coat with flapped or jetted pockets in smooth worsted wool. Basically I'd rather use an orphaned navy suit jacket as a blazer than have a blazer suit made.

I guess I understood that Flap was the in between choice - works either way. With jetted being formal, and patch very casual. Again I think I am trying to swim in the deep end with experts on this, not really 99% of public.

 

[twuthetiger]

Hi all,

I will be dabbling into the realm of summer jacketing. The first one I was a smarter jacket, perhaps a dark navy hopsack/mesh/basketweave that's 8-10 oz. Ideally looser weave w/ more noticeable texture and no sheen. I did some digging and found Holland sherry Mesh & Hopsack Blazers bunch 3024011 & Drapers Montecarlo bunch. Anyone with any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[aristoi bcn]

Minnis/Dugdale/Smith Finmeresco mock lenos.

 

[kolecho]

Hi all,

I will be dabbling into the realm of summer jacketing. The first one I was a smarter jacket, perhaps a dark navy hopsack/mesh/basketweave that's 8-10 oz. Ideally looser weave w/ more noticeable texture and no sheen. I did some digging and found Holland sherry Mesh & Hopsack Blazers bunch 3024011 & Drapers Montecarlo bunch. Anyone with any suggestions? Thanks!

Piacenza alpaca mesh.

 

[CLH03]

Hi all,

I will be dabbling into the realm of summer jacketing. The first one I was a smarter jacket, perhaps a dark navy hopsack/mesh/basketweave that's 8-10 oz. Ideally looser weave w/ more noticeable texture and no sheen. I did some digging and found Holland sherry Mesh & Hopsack Blazers bunch 3024011 & Drapers Montecarlo bunch. Anyone with any suggestions? Thanks!

Montecarlo & Minnis mock Leno are a favorite of mine. Standeven has some mesh jacketing in their mohair bunch. Lots of good options out there

 

[circumspice]

PSA: Pepper Lee is doing 30% off some of their summer-ish stuff

 

[ZRH1]

PSA: Pepper Lee is doing 30% off some of their summer-ish stuff

thanks, but with the astonishing increases they had in the recent past, some well over several multiples of the original prices a few years ago, even 30% is not really that interesting.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Has anyone used Drapers gabardine? How does it drape/tailor? It’s lighter than the Minnis but I prefer the colours.

The idea is to have made a suit by a Milanese tailor.

 

[jonathanS]

Has anyone used Drapers gabardine? How does it drape/tailor? It’s lighter than the Minnis but I prefer the colours.

The idea is to have made a suit by a Milanese tailor.

View attachment 2190147 View attachment 2190149 View attachment 2190151

IMO, colors matter a lot.

As a general rule, drapers does a really good job with their colors. Especially their blues.

Found these in my photos. Maybe worth considering. They’re from 2018, but h&s probably has similar fabrics today

 

[jonathanS]

I posted this question in the on going bespoke thread. Perhaps it’s better here.

4 trousers:


But I could be convinced to swap out one of the drapers ascot 4ply for the fox air light gray melange.

1. Ascot taupe-gray
2. Ascot light gray
3. Ascot medium gray
4. Fox air beige

Any other suggestions?

 

[tim_horton]

I think these are all great choices.

Fox Air is 2-ply and 10 ounces; Draper’s 4-ply is 13 ounces. I think the Draper’s will hang and tailor better, and be crisper. Since this is for trousers and not a suit, I’d lean towards the Draper’s, but it depends on your climate.

I think your color choices (light and mid grey, taupe and tan) are the most useful for summer. I find them easier to wear than charcoal.

 

[jonathanS]

I think these are all great choices.

Fox Air is 2-ply and 10 ounces; Draper’s 4-ply is 13 ounces. I think the Draper’s will hang and tailor better, and be crisper. Since this is for trousers and not a suit, I’d lean towards the Draper’s, but it depends on your climate.

I think your color choices (light and mid grey, taupe and tan) are the most useful for summer. I find them easier to wear than charcoal.

Yes,

Florida, so my fear was that on the blazing hot days, ascot could get warm.

But to your point, that’s why I didn’t consider the drapers 2ply (I realize above the swatch books photographed are the 2ply, Not 4ply)

And I could get good mileage out of the ascots into winter (where, perhaps a lighter gray might look out of place).

How does standeven compare?

I could be convinced to swap the light gray ascot for melange light gray (I don’t have a photo of the ascot, but the fox air has nice visual interest vs. plain gray)