Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bespoke DJP]

In your experience, what cashmere weight would be the equivalent of 30 oz in wool (assuming a fairly tight weave)?

Dear Sir, this is a great question!

I am afraid that I do not have the answer, and in my books an "answer" is only a precise one! The reason is that I used to have a number of navy, grey RTW overcoats, and in the pre-lock-down period I decided to finally commission a black overcoat; yes, black, still unfunded due to last period' s Covid restrictions.

So, I think that you can get the answer either from someone who have lived with both a pure wool and a pure cashmere overcoat in your or a similar climate-wise area, or - and this is my advice - from your tailor who may have undertaken such commissions several times; if they are based in your vicinity, they would be able to comment on the garments' behavior vis-à-vis the elements.

Fortunately, in this Thread we are lucky enough to have @Despos, who, time granted, may be able to chime in to your assistance; I can recall an excellent long Ulster Overcoat that he had made and posted couple of pictures of it; it was made for a gentleman facing similar climatological circumstances to yours.

In sharp contrast, my own climate is far, far milder than yours, it is a rather temperate one, and therefore I prefer and really enjoy fabrics of Italian provenance, mainly Ermenegildo Zegna ones. It is known that such fabrics are lightweight compared to the ones of your need. EZ has just renewed the cashmere overcoating bunch, so the one that I am posting here below is the most recent, updated version of mine with the only difference being the weight: from 480grams to 470grams. The remarks of @UrbanComposition on the Zegna cashmere overcoating fabric - currently used for an Ulster overcoat - are more than exact.

The image is from tessin.it:

Best,

Dimitris

 

[bjhofkin]

There are some 25oz coatings from Dugdale, but not sure if they are to your taste pattern/texture-wise. Like this:
View attachment 1720308

6304 | Coatings From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Quality

Buy 6304 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

Otherwise, Fox would have been your best bet for something that heavy or heavier.

Yep, that exact swatch is in front of me as we speak and will likely be a leading candidate – thank you!

 

[bjhofkin]

Dear Sir, this is a great question!

I am afraid that I do not have the answer, and in my books an "answer" is only a precise one! The reason is that I used to have a number of navy, grey RTW overcoats, and in the pre-lock-down period I decided to finally commission a black overcoat; yes, black, still unfunded due to last period' s Covid restrictions.

So, I think that you can get the answer either from someone who have lived with both a pure wool and a pure cashmere overcoat in your or a similar climate-wise area, or - and this is my advice - from your tailor who may have undertaken such commissions several times; if they are based in your vicinity, they would be able to comment on the garments' behavior vis-à-vis the elements.

Hopefully in this Thread we are lucky enough to have @Despos, who, time granted, may be able to chime in to your assistance; I can recall an excellent long Ulster Overcoat that he had made and posted couple of pictures of it; it was made for a gentleman facing similar climatological circumstances to yours.

In sharp contrast, my own climate is far, far milder than yours, it is a rather temperate one, and therefore I prefer and really enjoy fabrics of Italian provenance, mainly Ermenegildo Zegna ones. It is known that such fabrics are lightweight compared to the ones of your need. EZ has just renewed the cashmere overcoating bunch, so the one that I am posting here below is the most recent, updated version of mine with the only difference being the weight: from 480grams to 470grams. The remarks of @UrbanComposition on the Zegna cashmere overcoating fabric - currently used for an Ulster overcoat - are more than exact.

The image is from tessin.it:

View attachment 1720313

Best,

Dimitris

Found this:

voxsartoria

Last Of The Beastly Boston Spring Weather (One Hopes.) Bespoke overcoat by Steed (Edwin DeBoise) in the stupendous (and stupendously ruinous) 1000g London Lounge Everest cashmere by Lovat Mill of...

voxsartoria.com

Good God that thing looks like a monster – maybe too much even for me!

 

[Zerase]

Has anyone made an overcoat with Marling & Evans 720g undyed tweed? Thinking of making an overcoat with a raglan sleeve with a local MTM company. Also can anyone direct me to where I can find these bunches online. I don't want to pester the the guy at the shop by looking at the swatches forever.

 

[bjhofkin]

Has anyone made an overcoat with Marling & Evans 720g undyed tweed? Thinking of making an overcoat with a raglan sleeve with a local MTM company. Also can anyone direct me to where I can find these bunches online. I don't want to pester the the guy at the shop by looking at the swatches forever.

I'm looking at that exact bunch (among others) for a similar purpose.

I emailed [email protected] to request that bunch, and I got a response with photos within a day and will be receiving swatches by the end of the week, hopefully.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Has anyone made an overcoat with Marling & Evans 720g undyed tweed? Thinking of making an overcoat with a raglan sleeve with a local MTM company. Also can anyone direct me to where I can find these bunches online. I don't want to pester the the guy at the shop by looking at the swatches forever.

I have a raglan in the light grey giant PoW check fabric.

I used the same e-mail address bjhof posted to order my fabric.

 

[Zerase]

I'm looking at that exact bunch (among others) for a similar purpose.

I emailed [email protected] to request that bunch, and I got a response with photos within a day and will be receiving swatches by the end of the week, hopefully.

Thank you!

I have a raglan in the light grey giant PoW check fabric.

I used the same e-mail address bjhof posted to order my fabric.

Thank you. Are you happy with the fabric thus far? Care to share a picture of the coat in question?

 

[FlyingHorker]

Thank you!



Thank you. Are you happy with the fabric thus far? Care to share a picture of the coat in question?

Yeah, here's an old picture from last year, a bit blurry though.

I love the fabric. It's a bit softer than the average tweed, but is still tweedy. That is, spongy, hairy, a bit scratchy, and actually has a nice drape due to the weight of the fabric at 720g. Less texture than a herringbone if that's an issue, but I feel the massive pattern of the cloth makes up for it.

The pattern looks "clear" from a distance, but is definitely not clear up close due to the hairy nature of the cloth.

I've no regrets. It is quite bold though.

Pattern matching is important on a patterned raglan, especially by the raglan shoulder seam near the collar.

Spoiler

 

[Zerase]

Yeah, here's an old picture from last year, a bit blurry though.

I love the fabric. It's a bit softer than the average tweed, but is still tweedy. That is, spongy, hairy, a bit scratchy, and actually has a nice drape due to the weight of the fabric at 720g. Less texture than a herringbone if that's an issue, but I feel the massive pattern of the cloth makes up for it.

The pattern looks "clear" from a distance, but is definitely not clear up close due to the hairy nature of the cloth.

I've no regrets. It is quite bold though.

Pattern matching is important on a patterned raglan, especially by the raglan shoulder seam near the collar.

Spoiler

That is one hell of a statement piece. Yeah the guy at the shop said that they'll be needing more cloth with a patterned cloth like a PoW than let's say a herringbone due to pattern matching.

 

[jonathanS]

For pure wool, ideally near 30 oz. But definitely in the 25 oz range.

I'm definitely aware of the greater warmth-to-weight ratio of cashmere and similar fibers.

In your experience, what cashmere weight would be the equivalent of 30 oz in wool (assuming a fairly tight weave)?

And any favorite cashmere bunches in that vein?

Perhaps some of these fabrics for a heavy weight overcoat? All from standeven

 

[FlyingHorker]

That is one hell of a statement piece. Yeah the guy at the shop said that they'll be needing more cloth with a patterned cloth like a PoW than let's say a herringbone due to pattern matching.

For sure man.

Do let us know if you end up going through with it.

Is there any fabric you're leaning towards in particular, or still just checking them out?

I know M&E has 2 other PoW check fabrics. One in another darker grey, and another in a brown chocolate chip cookie colour.

Small image that shows them

 

[Zerase]

For sure man.

Do let us know if you end up going through with it.

Is there any fabric you're leaning towards in particular, or still just checking them out?

I know M&E has 2 other PoW check fabrics. One in another darker grey, and another in a brown chocolate chip cookie colour.

Was eyeing the black and white herringbone but damn, your coat made me consider a PoW one. Hope you don't mind.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Was eyeing the black and white herringbone but damn, your coat made me consider a PoW one. Hope you don't mind.

Not at all man, I think it's a lovely fabric. If you pick that fabric, I hope you're able to enjoy it as much as I do.

Also, here is a picture of the brown PoW check made by B&Tailor. I edited in a crappy image of the 3 PoW checks in my previous post as well.

 

[JHWilliams]

I remember this. Think it was the 1000g everest cashmere. Voxsartoria has a coat in this I believe.

I hope Michael considers another run of this. Nothing else like it available at that weight on the market

 

[JHWilliams]

I know we have been talking about heavyweight cloth and overcoats, but now is the time to consider summer weight cloth to be ready for the season. London Lounge just did a run of “mare” in sand a new worsted cool wool. I am in love. Beautiful hand that will definitely drape well. There is an open subscription now for a beautiful cool mid grey. I am definitely in.