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Trousers' Rise and Double Breasted Suit

tamimasa

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Sep 18, 2021
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Dear all,

I am commissioning a double breasted suit. Normally I'd have my trousers made high rise, but my tailor suggests that he makes the trousers mid-low rise instead. He reasons that because of the nature of how a double breasted jacket closes when buttoned, the rise of the trousers does not matter much in terms of appearance.

I attempted to draw a sketch to point out his explanation. He said that if I were to get a single breasted suit, he would make the trousers' rise higher. He said, as shown in the right figure, if the trousers' rise is too low, then the highlighted yellow portion would show even when the jacket is buttoned, and that is not pleasing.

However, he said, for a double breasted suit, the jacket is almost always closed when standing up, so if the length of the jacket is long enough, the trousers' rise does not affect the overall appearance. Further, when you take off the jacket, lower rise trousers look more balanced with just the shirt on compared to high rise trousers.

Any thoughts?

111307.jpg


Screen Shot 2022-09-06 at 8.27.49 AM.png
 

Crispyj

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Just go whatever is most comfortable for you. I usually default to medium rise. Never low rise with dress pants.
 

TheIronDandy

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Your tailors explanation sounds really odd to me. Odd enough that my first thought was "is he trying to save an inch of fabric with that excuse?" I find myself wearing my DB jackets unbuttoned far more often than I find myself taking them off and then worrying about if my trousers and shirt look balanced. Your situation my differ.

The photo you have posted does not look "well balanced" to me. It looks like he tried to machine-wash his waistcoat and trousers, and they shrunk. I would take my business elsewhere if a tailor advocated that look (disclaimer: I'm not making suggestions about who you do business with, I'm only stating what I personally would do).
 

chickene

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Strange explanation on the tailor's part. Surely the hidden waistband should be an excuse to go for a higher and more comfortable rise? I think a higher rise looks more proportional anyway.

I would take my business elsewhere if a tailor advocated that look (disclaimer: I'm not making suggestions about who you do business with, I'm only stating what I personally would do).

^^^
 

Johnny80

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i tried a low rise denim and trousers..it looks and feel weird...
but medium rise is a go if you like it more and yes both are ok for a double breasted
But, in my opinion go with your body balance better...if you have a longer upper body than go with high rise trouser, if you are shorter and long legs go with medium rise to have more upper body balanced with your legs
Dont listen to your tailor because it sounds a weird explanation...there are times when you take your jacket off or open it...and with low rise trousers you will look strange
 

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