Thumbs Up/Thumbs Down: My wedding tux specs

[WestD21]

@mafoofan - First, thanks for the detailed reply. Very, very helpful. Couple of comments:

1. I had to ask the tailor shop specifically how many measurements they take because, well, I'm an ignorant customer (hence this thread). By asking, I was hoping to get a sense of how detailed they were. (I had read somewhere that master tailors take upwards of 26 measurements.) They didn't offer the info up, but did give it freely when asked. I agree the "master tailor" reference is dubious...how will I know it's not MTM? I mean...obviously if I watch them sew it up over the course of the fittings, etc. it's not MTM, right? Any other tips/tricks?

2. I'm also trying to figure out how they're able to keep prices low. Perhaps this is one way? Maybe they're offering up good, but not "remarkable," fabrics at prices higher than what you'd expect for those fabrics. What do you think?

3. I like the grosgrain idea. I'll check it out.

4. Perhaps you can answer this. Someone a few posts up mentioned a silk band put on the top of the trousers. Is this what's known as "finished trousers"? Can that silk band replace the cummerbund?

5. Interesting that you put the buttonhole in your shawl collars. I keep going back and forth on this. I'm planning on a boutineer, so it could work, but I'm also considering the suggestion listed a few posts up on the magnetic attachment. Would you ever wear a buttonhole shawl collar without the flower?

 

[WestD21]

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[WestD21]

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[WestD21]

<sorry for the duplicates>

 

[TheFoo]



@mafoofan - First, thanks for the detailed reply. Very, very helpful. Couple of comments:

1. I had to ask the tailor shop specifically how many measurements they take because, well, I'm an ignorant customer (hence this thread). By asking, I was hoping to get a sense of how detailed they were. (I had read somewhere that master tailors take upwards of 26 measurements.) They didn't offer the info up, but did give it freely when asked. I agree the "master tailor" reference is dubious...how will I know it's not MTM? I mean...obviously if I watch them sew it up over the course of the fittings, etc. it's not MTM, right? Any other tips/tricks?

2. I'm also trying to figure out how they're able to keep prices low. Perhaps this is one way? Maybe they're offering up good, but not "remarkable," fabrics at prices higher than what you'd expect for those fabrics. What do you think?

3. I like the grosgrain idea. I'll check it out.

4. Perhaps you can answer this. Someone a few posts up mentioned a silk band put on the top of the trousers. Is this what's known as "finished trousers"? Can that silk band replace the cummerbund?

5. Interesting that you put the buttonhole in your shawl collars. I keep going back and forth on this. I'm planning on a boutineer, so it could work, but I'm also considering the suggestion listed a few posts up on the magnetic attachment. Would you ever wear a buttonhole shawl collar without the flower?

1. Well, you can't really know--you have to believe what he tells you. However, if you see people cutting and sewing cloth in his shop, that's a sign he isn't just having a factory somewhere assemble stuff for him. If I were you, I'd first look at whether this tailor is primarily a bespoke tailor or an alterations tailor willing to do custom work. I would be very skeptical of the latter and avoid.

2. The cloth could not explain the low price. Most of the cost that goes into bespoke stems from the labor, not the materials. Really nice English cloth would only increase the price of your suit by a few hundred bucks at most.

4. I don't know what the technical term is, but if if you finish the waistband of your trousers with a silk facing and it is wide enough so that no shirt shows when your jacket is buttoned, you can go without a cummerbund. Essentially, it's a cummerbund built into your pants.

5. Magnets? Would avoid--sounds cheesy. Nothing wrong with buttonholes in a shawl lapel. Mine are usually without a flower.

 

[WestD21]

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[jrd617]



So? Since that time, many different dinner jacket configurations have been accepted into orthodoxy. I am all for dressing "correct," but I see no appeal in historical costume.

I still think that peaks look better than shawl. They just look sharper.

 

[TheFoo]



I still think that peaks look better than shawl.

It's certainly your right to have a personal opinion, but I don't see how that ought to influence the OP.

 

[jrd617]



It's certainly your right to have a personal opinion, but I don't see how that ought to influence the OP.

He asked for a thumbs up/down on his specs, did he not? I said that I prefer peak. It is totally within his right to select shawl. If it were me, I'd go for peaks.

 

[TheFoo]



He asked for a thumbs up/down on his specs, did he not? I said that I prefer peak. It is totally within his right to select shawl. If it were me, I'd go for peaks.

Fair enough--he did ask for a thumbs up or thumbs down.

 

[Axel Ferguson]

Shawl collar is fine with me. Always seemed natural with a 'smoking', which I guess is the continental version of the dinner suit.