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Wedding Tuxedo for this December

ValidusLA

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You can have a slim cut jacket without venturing into the slim lapels and short jackets proffered by SuSu and other designers at this point in time.

As other people have mentioned here, if you are willing to pay for TF or YSL, you should consider get a bespoke rig made.

You don't need to go to London, there is good bespoke available in America. Now, I don't know about Portland, but SF and LA have quality bespoke tailors and aren't that far.
 

Dune5

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most SR tailors kept a European and North American travel schedule but I don’t know what things are like now with Covid.
That's awesome. I suppose in-person would be the only proper way to get it done...however, probably not an option in my case. I doubt "Portland, OR" is on their list of stops to try and sell custom suits.
 

TheIronDandy

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Love it - that's where my head is at, I suppose! Thank you for the affirmation.

Any recommendations when it comes to Saville Row? I just assumed that whole world was off-limits unless one could fly to London for a week.
Well, the only Saville Row tailor I've dealt with personally is Cad&the Dandy. They actually have a presence in NYC and I know they do trunk shows again but I don't know their schedule. They "only" offer full bespoke, but have an option where the tailoring is done in India to keep the cost down, and with that option you could have a bespoke tux for around $1500 US (tailoring quality is excellent, prices go up with more extravagant fabrics) - at that rate you may be able to fit in a couple of cheap flights to NYC for fittings instead of going Tom Ford. C&D are less bound by tradition (being a relatively new company) and generally tend towards a lighter, slightly more contemporary cut. I think my first suit from them was edging into the slim fit (though full length) of many modern suits - they'll make things in that style if you request it, without grumbling.

Gieves&Hawkes of Saville row offer MTM, but I may be mistaken on the online service from them, they don't mention it on their website. Might be worth checking with them, though. I thought Withcomb&Shaftbury offered it as well, but I may have been mistaken. Note to self: double check sources before posting.

Then there are other London-based companies that offer MTM, such as Hackett, but that's more of a traditional menswear company that offers MTM, rather than a bespoke tailor. Still, quite a few options out there. They may not feel quite as "stupid rich" as a Tom Ford or YSL tux, but you'll likely end up getting more for your money, both in fit and quality.
 

Dune5

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Well, the only Saville Row tailor I've dealt with personally is Cad&the Dandy...Gieves&Hawkes...Withcomb&Shaftbury

Then there are other London-based companies that offer MTM, such as Hackett, but that's more of a traditional menswear company that offers MTM, rather than a bespoke tailor. Still, quite a few options out there. They may not feel quite as "stupid rich" as a Tom Ford or YSL tux, but you'll likely end up getting more for your money, both in fit and quality.
This is awesome, thank you so much, TheIronDandy! It looks like booking an online appointment might not be possible, but you make a good point about being able to probably fly to NYC on the cheap and make one happen and still come out ahead vs. a Tom Ford or YSL suit. Will consider it...
 

Dune5

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Alright guys, the Tom Ford O'Connor Tuxedo came in yesterday. I've tried to take some photos to get your opinions on the initial fit, but I think they came out pretty bad! I'll ask my fiancée to take some proper ones later. As it stands, a few quick precisions:

1. This is "off the rack" - absolutely unaltered.
2. I will not be wearing a pink shirt...working with what I have in my closet ATM which isn't much (recently moved)
3. Apologies for the lack of shoes...same excuse as above. I tried to fold one leg to where I thought a break might be, but I left the other full-length. They're long!
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Dune5

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One last thing - I didn't recognize some of the accessories that came with the pant: does anyone know what these are for? I'm sure the eventual tailor I go with will know what to do with them, but I'm curious!
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Parmesan

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Just to confirm, you did go with a Tom Ford tuxedo in the end? In my opinion, the trouser are too tight, the lapels too slim, and the shoulders too built up and the fabric is too shiny. The overall fit is not horrendous but it does look a bit too fashion-forward. Honestly, If possible, i would return it and order another tuxedo, or order an MTM tuxedo, preferrably with a return policy if possible. The pouch you have looks like the silk of the side of the trousers in case you need to replace/repair?
How much did you pay, out of curiosity?
 
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Dune5

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Just to confirm, you did go with a Tom Ford tuxedo in the end? In my opinion, the trouser are too tight, the lapels too slim, and the shoulders too built up and the fabric is too shiny. The overall fit is not horrendous but it does look a bit too fashion-forward. Honestly, If possible, i would return it and order another tuxedo, or order an MTM tuxedo, preferrably with a return policy if possible. The pouch you have looks like the silk of the side of the trousers in case you need to replace/repair?
How much did you pay, out of curiosity?
Thank you for the suggestions! I ordered this directly from TF's site, it's the only Tux on there right now for close to 6k USD. No local stores carry TF, and it's free shipping and returns...so I'm just trying it out.

For the price, I think it looks great on me, don't get me wrong, but I'm also far from "blown away" which I semi-expected - perhaps ignorantly - for the first designer tux I've ever tried on.

I'm surprised you think the pant is too tight! I actually thought they'd be a tad slimmer, as this is apparently their slimmest cut (O'Connor). I do think that it's slightly abrupt coming from the bottom of the jacket to the pant, though (but that can also be due to my complete lack of a butt and skinny legs don't help). If you wouldn't mind, what about the fit feels a bit too fashion-forward to you? I don't disagree nor agree...just curious!0

Edit: Forgot to add - read a tailor's review of a random TF suit, and through that I found out that the thinner, shinier thread that came with the pant is so the tailor can add belt loops (if desired). Still no idea what the thicker, coarser thread is for that was in my hand (not in the plastic bag).
 

Parmesan

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On a second review, I think the trousers are an okay fit, but I would prefer to have them a tad looser overall personally. Defenitely not slimmer than what you have on the pictures. But they fit fine. So does the jacket. I really like the turn up cuff on the jacket!! The fashion design comes from the skinnier lapel, usually structured shoulders, and tight fit. This tux does not look bad, don’t get me wrong. To me the proportions just feel a bit off and the fabic seems to be of a shinier type which usually is not flattering unless you really want attention (judging from picture 1). If you want the designer fashion-look - go for it! I’m just saying I would have it made differently considering the price. You could buy 2 tuxedos for the same price and probably have them fit as you wish with the details you prefer, but without the TF label on the inside of the pocket.
 

TheIronDandy

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I think you'll get some comments about the fit (especially the trousers) simply because the very slim fit trousers is a fairly modern look, and the SF community tend to favor more classic cuts, which include a more generous cut of the trousers.

Personally, I think at 6k you could do better, and should go for something that will look good on you if (god forbid) you gain a couple of pounds in the future. I'm looking at getting a bespoke dinner jacket, hand tailored in 100% cashmere, which will cost half of what you paid. BUT I also know that you really wanted a designer tux and that you don't mind the more contemporary look, and considering that, this is probably the style of tux you want. And if you're going designer and have money to burn, Tom Ford is probably as good as it gets - everyone seems to agree his suits are actually well made.

The good news is, you are EXACTLY the kind of person this contemporary fit is made to look good for. Slim cuts and thin lapels doesn't look good on many men, but if you're young and athletic thin, it works. Again, just stay off the carbs until the wedding!

Still, the trousers look a bit off - well fitting tailored trousers should fall in a way that creates a clean line. It might be that they're too long, but even after that I'm wondering if they'll give the clean line you want? Still, it's always hard to give fitting advice when you're taking the pictures yourself, because you're not standing in a neutral stance. Get your girl to take a few shots of you wearing the tux, wear shoes for the picture, and make sure you tuck the excess trouser fabric so you get them the right length.

Don't forget to tell her that it's "so that a bunch of fussy old men on the internet can judge the fit, and you want to look pretty for them!" If she laughs at that, congratulations, you got further proof that she's a keeper!
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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One last thing - I didn't recognize some of the accessories that came with the pant: does anyone know what these are for? I'm sure the eventual tailor I go with will know what to do with them, but I'm curious! View attachment 1633899
Edit: Forgot to add - read a tailor's review of a random TF suit, and through that I found out that the thinner, shinier thread that came with the pant is so the tailor can add belt loops (if desired). Still no idea what the thicker, coarser thread is for that was in my hand (not in the plastic bag).
Looks like the heel guard. A heel guard is a strip of tape attached the to inside hem. It protects the bottom of trousers from being worn out.

Personally, I don't think it's a very useful detail. IME, the seat or crotch of your trousers will wear out before the hem. But sometimes suit manufacturers include it as a detail.

I'm not at home right now, but here's a photo from Ask Andy. I've had the detail done to a couple of trousers and ask for the tape to be placed a little closer to the edge. It's a delicate thing since, if you put it too far, the tape ends up wrapping around and showing on the outside. But if you place it just right, it can also act as a thin "edge" on the end of the trousers, which I think is more useful. Can take a photo when I get home, if you want.


Shoes303.jpeg
 
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Dune5

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Hey gents,

A few more photos, hopefully in better lighting and taken by someone other than my bumbling self! I still am in desperate need of: A) A white French cuff shirt B) dress shoes and C) an iron...but I think these shots are a lot better than the ones I posted yesterday.

@TheIronDandy Your whole last post made me smile - thank you for your point of view! I definitely read the whole thing to my fiancée, and - while she shook her head - she had a grin on.

@Parmesan I 100% agree about the fabric in the first photo - I think my phone over-exposed it while it was hanging for some reason. Hopefully the blue hue in these photos show it in a bit better (less shiny) light. Nevertheless, thank you so much for your great points. I'm very tempted to go bespoke, and here in Portland there seems to be only one option ("The Duchess Clothier") which looks cool and would save me A LOT of money...but I'm just not sure they suit my style. I'm trying to setup a virtual conference with them next week, regardless, to ask them tons of questions and get a better idea. What's sh***y about TF's site is that they only give you 14 days to start a return, so I'm scrambling!

@dieworkwear Ah, that makes sense! I actually found a 4th ribbon deep in the pocket as well, but I'll spare you guys a photo of a random blue thread. I just hope Portland has a tailor who will know what the heck this is all for (if I end up choosing this tux)!

Thank all you guys so much - already learning a lot from this website and enjoy all the opinions, ideas and suggestions!
 

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Mahatma Jawndi
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Personally don't think that tuxedo fits you very well.
 
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dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Jacket doesn't seem to be hugging your neck. The collar gap is filled only because the shirt collar itself is also floating from your neck. If you button the topmost shirt button, I think you will see a collar gap.

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Sleeves are wrinkling at the back because the sleeves aren't falling at the right pitch for your arm. However, you look like you're standing overly erect for the photos and have your arms pushed back. So that may be the reason.

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Trousers are too tight across your hips. This is causing the pockets to open

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Pants look too slim at the bottom.

Jacket is also oddly short for the rest of the silhouette.

For $6k, I would expect something that fits a lot better. Something that only requires some minor adjustments.
 

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