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Thumbs Up/Thumbs Down: My wedding tux specs

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by WestD21, Jan 31, 2012.

  1. WestD21

    WestD21 Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Would love to get a read from the Style Forum experts on what I'm planning for my wedding tuxedo. Please see the specs below, and, if you're so inclined, respond with a simple +1 or -1 depending on what you think.

    (If you give it a -1, tell me why! I haven't finalized any of these decisions, and I'm pretty new at this, so I'd appreciate any guidance!)

    The Tailor:
    - Bespoke. Decidedly not MTM.
    - Tailor takes 14 jacket measurements, 10 pant measurements
    - Done in-house by a master tailor (though I'm not sure who bestows that title upon the tailor)
    - Will do as many fittings as necessary
    - ~$1390

    The Cloth:
    - Vitale Barberis Super 130s
    - Bemberg lining
    - hand-sewn, premium canvas interfacing (not fused/glued)

    The Design:
    - Midnight blue
    - Shawl collar (in black satin)
    - Flat-front trousers, no belt loops, no cuffs, with single black satin stripe
    - No flaps on the jacket pockets (with black satin accent)
    - Black satin bowtie (NOT pre-tied)
    - Soft front, turn-down collar shirt. Black studs and cufflinks.

    How'd I do?

    Bonus:

    I'm still debating on:
    - Cummerbund or no? (The fiancee hates cummerbunds. But I'm pretty trad, so...)
    - Spread collar? Semi-spread collar?
    - Button hole on the shawl collar?
    -
     
  2. Roger Everett

    Roger Everett Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    WestD21:

    Sounds like a great tux, love the Midnight Blue.
    My thoughts on other points:
    I would definitely go with a cummerbund in the same satin as shawl collar and bow tie. I have worn without, but see it as a more casual look in tux apparel. Generally speaking, it's a cummerbund with bow and vest with regular tie.
    With a bow tie -- a point or semi-spread shirt collar -- I think a full spread would not be coverd enough with a bow, I would save that to go with a reg. tie.
    I would not get a button hole ( for boutonniere ) in a shaw collar. I got married last Oct. ( hopefully for the last time, ---3rd. times the charm right ), and florist had this magnet device ( 3 tiny magnets on a thin green plastic strip, that she attached to boutonniere, and another one that you hold to back of collar. Worked great and held like it was sewn on.

    Roger
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. WestD21

    WestD21 Member

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    Thanks, Roger! Appreciate your thoughts on the buttonhole, too. I understand (from reading a few posts here on SF) that the shawl collar buttonhole is pretty controversial.

    Oh - any thoughts on shoes?

    (And congrats on the marriage!)
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    $1400 is a very nice price for a bespoke tux - make sure that you see examples of the tailor's work so that you know what you're in for. I've never heard this cummerbund/bow vest/long tie stuff...if you're going black tie, it's a bow, no questions asked. And you need some kind of waist covering. I like vests more than cummerbunds, and if your bride hates cummerbunds, that makes it an easier decision. The other option, since you're going bespoke, is to get a silk band put on the top of your trousers (incidentally - you didn't mention this, but since you say no belt loops, I'm assuming you're wearing suspenders and therefore have buttons for them on the trousers). Are you doing studs and links? You'll need to decide how many studs to show on your shirt too...
     
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Oh and buttonhole - personally I prefer peak lapels to begin with. If you're going shawl, I'd say skip the buttonhole, and also skip the boutonniere. If you really want to put the flower in there, then yes, do the buttonhole.

    The shoes are a contentious issue. Patent pumps with a satin bow are the classic choice, but some men find them too feminine and go with patent laceups instead. Just get something that's shiny and has a plain toe and it's fine.
     
  6. urfloormatt

    urfloormatt Well-Known Member

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    Side vents or no vent?
     
  7. WestD21

    WestD21 Member

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    Ah - something I forgot to put in. I'm debating between no and side vents. Right now, I'm about 51% in favor of no, and 49 in favor of side.

    Like I said, I'm pretty trad, which makes me think no vents. But I have a suit that's not vented, and it just isn't all the comfortable: putting hands in your pockets is a pain, it's tough to bend at the waist, etc.

    Now - in a suit, you tend to do that kind of thing (hands in pockets, move around, etc.) With a tux, you're pretty much either standing at the alter, sitting at an opera, or making small talk with drink in one hand. Movement is not so much an issue. So...maybe the non-vented jacket won't be a problem. I don't know.

    Thoughts?
     
  8. WestD21

    WestD21 Member

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    <deleting this duplicate post>
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2012
  9. WestD21

    WestD21 Member

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    Right...I know the vest would be the easy choice, but I'm not a big fan of vests. Too damn hot (the wedding is in late June in DC, and although it'll all be inside, just walking to the church is sure to make me break a sweat, especially with a vest).

    I had been thinking of going without: no cummerbund, no vest. Not exactly trad, I know. But this option of putting in the silk band is very intriguing. I'll have to inquire about that with my tailor.

    Thanks for the tip!

    PS - Black studs and cuff links. Probably 4.
     
  10. WestD21

    WestD21 Member

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    Quote:
    I actually kinda like the patent pumps with satin bow look. When else do you get to wear something like that, right?

    Here's another variable to throw in: I like socks. Bright, colorful socks. Just my thing. (Not really trad, either, but that's why I like it. Keeps people guessing.) The groomsmen and I will all wear different, brightly colored socks. Mine will probably be solid, bright coral, to match the bridesmaids' color scheme.

    What do you think? Patent pumps with satin bow and bright coral socks may not be easy to pull off. I'm pretty confident I could do it with patent lace-ups, but not sure about the pumps. Thoughts?
     
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    I really strongly recommend you get some kind of waist covering. Otherwise you have shirt showing below the jacket button, which throws off the look. You can get your vest made backless, which means it really doesn't make you warmer at all.

    Most bespoke setups show 2 or 3, with 2 being more common (somebody correct me on this if I'm wrong)
     
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Personally I much favor ventless for a tux. It maintains the silhouette of the jacket better and also is another detail of differentiation between the tux and the business suit.
     
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    If you're going colorful, at least don't go so bright. These are distinctive and colorful, without being ostentatious and gaudy:

    http://store.asuitablewardrobe.net/puresilkBrescianidresshose.aspx

    If you wear coral socks, you could have the finest cut tuxedo in the world and all people will see are your coral socks.
     
  14. hugeevilrobot

    hugeevilrobot Well-Known Member

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    If you do pumps, I'd probably skip the coral socks- pumps are fairly flashy already (though excellent when done properly).

    Also, where in DC are you getting multiple fittings for for <$1500?
     
  15. Roger Everett

    Roger Everett Well-Known Member

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    You mentioned you're going to be wearing studs --- two things come to mind
    Studs now days come 4 to a set ( and tux shirs only have 4 removeable buttons ). If you don't wear a cummerbund or some waist treatment, you will have a regular white button showing above waist ( take a look at you shirt, and count buttons, next time wearing a suit ). Plus, like mentioned, white shirt showing below coat button. tacky --- tacky
    The socks -- like also mentioned, if you go with colored socks, that's all people will see. And if someone says anything to new wifey about it ==== no nukey on wedding night

    Roger
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  16. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    This is one of the things that differentiates bespoke tux shirts from RTW though - if you show only one or two studs, it's pretty much gotta be bespoke
     
  17. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

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    A black or white formal backless vest shouldn't make you an awful lot hotter.
     
  18. WestD21

    WestD21 Member

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    Quote:
    Is this "silk band put on the top of your trousers" known as a "finished waistband"? If so, it seems others on the forum believe it is a cardinal sin not to wear a cummerbund/waistcoat even with a finished waistband.

    See: http://www.styleforum.net/t/41663/super-serious-tuxedo-issues#post_628999
    and: http://www.styleforum.net/t/245405/opinions-on-these-tux-trousers#post_4503139

    Right, so: Is a finished waistband the same as this "silk band put on top of your trousers"?

    Either way...got a picture of what you mean by "silk band"?

    Thanks!
     
  19. unclesam099

    unclesam099 Well-Known Member

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    This thread is great. I'm thinking of doing this same thing for my wedding in August.

    May I inquire about the tailor? I'd like to check it out at that price. I may also go to a local bespoke shop or MTM route, but I'm just now starting my research.

    Is there a list of traditional, classic tux specs out there anywhere? ie fabrics, lapel style/width, ventless, trouser design, shirt specs, etc configurations that are classic and timeless?
     
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    blacktieguide.com
     

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