The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[Mr. Moo]

So I just learned about the Tudor Black Bay Blue version that just came out... preeeeeeettttty sweet watch. Did not like the original Black Bay with the red/rose/cream stuff, but this one is great. Thoughts?

 

[bkotsko]

So I just learned about the Tudor Black Bay Blue version that just came out... preeeeeeettttty sweet watch. Did not like the original Black Bay with the red/rose/cream stuff, but this one is great. Thoughts?

I like the blue on the bracelet.
I like the red on a burgundy shell strap (for obvious reasons to me).
The strap is a little beat up in this pic, but you get the idea.

 

[in stitches]



I have always had a soft spot for the hobnail bezelled Calatravas. Beautiful simplicity. Want to pick one up someday.
Is there a number associated with that type?

There are a number of them, some with seconds sub dial, some without....

I believe the one I have pictured above is the 3919.

Beautiful calatravas , my vote is for the one second from top!

Ours will be ready for sale in about 3 weeks.

Stitchy: Is that a 5123 at the bottom? I love the dial. Not sure about the caseback and lugs...They need to develop a bigger hand-wound movement!

Indeed that is a 5123. Agreed, Love the dial, but the caseback and lugs not as much. Now, put that 5123 dial on the 5227 case and Im .

 

[no frills]

Are these fake Rolexes or what!!!

 

[bdeuce22]



So I just learned about the Tudor Black Bay Blue version that just came out... preeeeeeettttty sweet watch. Did not like the original Black Bay with the red/rose/cream stuff, but this one is great. Thoughts?

I like both colors very very much. i think blue looks better on bracelet and red looks better on a nice leather strap.

 

[Dino944]

As a follow up though, in this pic I like the 5227 quite a bit, and while I am at it, a few more Calatravas that I enjoy:

I like the looks of the 5022, but I'd never purchase that one or a hobnail like the 5119/3919. Those lugs are a very weak design. They are too small, and just sodiered on, and if you accidentally hit it against a doorway the lugs are prone to breaking off completely. I was at my local AD when a customer brought in a 5119, he had accidentally bumped against a doorway, and the lug was broken off from the case. The AD was just going to sent it to be reattached, but they said they have seen that issue several times with that case design because its just a small piece that is welded on. If going for a Patek, I would only get a Patek where the lug was more integrated into the case or a lot more solid then what is on the 5119/3919.

I have always had a soft spot for the hobnail bezelled Calatravas. Beautiful simplicity. Want to pick one up someday.

Is there a number associated with that type?

5119 or 3919, but beware, if you are tough on watches choose a different model, the lugs on those are literally a weak point. See above.

Bit of a ramble, but would I choose a 5227 or 5297 over a Lange 1, 1815 up/down, VC patrimony Traditionelle, or AP Jules Audemars? Not certain... But nor do I think they are as worthless/valueless as do you...

There are lots of great Pateks, and we all have different taste. One choosing a 5227 or 5297 over a Lange 1, sorry, but that's no competition...the Lange 1, is (regardless of Walt Odet's opinion about finishing) a far better finished watch than a Calatrava. Don't get me wrong, the Calatrava is really nice, and the finish is great...but the Lange is a notch above them. I think its tough to compare a VC Patrimony Traditionelle to a Calatrava, as the Calatrava is substantially more expensive...I like the looks of the VC more, but I think I like the movement of the Patek more. The Jules Audemars Ultra Thin vs. a Calatrava...I'd probably take the AP over the 2 you mentioned, but if it were a different Calatrava maybe I would choose the Patek. Anyway, just my thoughts on a few watches you mentioned. Again, wishing you and your Dad luck and lots of fun.

 

[mimo]

I like the blue on the bracelet.
I like the red on a burgundy shell strap (for obvious reasons to me).
The strap is a little beat up in this pic, but you get the idea.

Yes.

What's the boot?

 

[bkotsko]

Are these fake Rolexes or what!!!

Both gorgeous, even if fake.
But seriously, the bezel protector looks funny.

 

[bkotsko]

Yes.

What's the boot?

Viberg 2030 last Color 8 shell.

 

[cyc wid it]

Calatravas do nothing for me.

 

[Keith T]



I don't agree entirely: sitting it alongside the original version, it seems like a pretty logical modern homage to its history, and I find it a lot more subtle than the 50 Fathoms.  The oddness of the date window - yes, it brings to mind a Valjoux 7751 chonograph - I actually quite like: being at none of the compass points actually makes it less distracting for me, and I somehow enjoy the peculiarity of it.  I also like the dial, and the proportions of the hands, for all their strangeness, please me.  The first time I saw a picture and review of this watch, I loved it: a proper diver that has historical reference, brand integrity, and is neither some pseudo-militaristic action figure's toy, nor anything at all like a Submariner.

And then there's the font thing: in this area, firstly I am easily caught out as my base knowledge of fonts, like most people, is negligible.  I understand (kind of) what you've said about "Arial" before, and on the Patek dials and whatnot, the example you've shown have made sense. But in all honesty, I would never have noticed from four numbers that this was Satan's own typeface.  Of course now I know, I agree that it's unforgivable given the detail normally required in the design of luxury timepieces.  I don't think this looks like a "parts bin special" at all, and I like the retro look of the slimmer bezel to dial proportion.  But yes, now the bezel looks cheap.  You have shat on this successfully in that regard, thank you!

But actually, on handling it in person, and being ignorant of the font-that-shall-not-be-named issue, there were two other issues that made it a disappointment: firstly, I don't think it needed to grow to a "modern" 43mm.  This jars with me against the interesting, subtle dial texture and old fashioned slimmer bezel.  39-41mm would have been quite "sporty" enough, and more consonant with the design, I feel.  Also, they gave it a sapphire caseback.  Which is fine - functional diver or not, it's a luxury watch, so having this luxury feature is not incongruous to me: after all, these makers put a lot into movement decoration.  Except they didn't.  I sort of get the matte-black textures on the rotor, although that's a bit lame for me.  But to go to the trouble of inviting a look at the movement, and then leave it looking relatively boring and functional, seems silly to me.

All in all, I still like the idea and the style of this watch - fonts notwithstanding.  But of course Dino, as usual, is right: even with 30-40% off easy to find, there is a lot of competition out there.  And if it were a bit smaller i.e. the size as subtle and retro as the concept, and if it had either a prettier movement, or a more authentic steel caseback - choose one, dammit - then it would stay firmly on my wish list whatever the TWATterati might think.  But, as a mere mortal, who's never bought anything nearly that expensive, and definitely won't in the near future, it would have to be perfect.  And it ain't.

Nice mini-review

Agreed regarding the heritage, and the overall "NOT a Sub" factor. And it truly is more subtle than the 50 Fathoms, no question.

(Of course Subs are great, see frilly's post above...don't get it twisted).

But personally, I find the Bathyscaphe bezel too thin.

AND the markers a touch too small for the dial. (Actually too small for a dive watch, period).

Granted, there's still a lot to like about it.... the dial color and "depth" are great, and NATO strap is probably the best I've seen.

And TBH, I'm probably more a fan of the regular Fifty Fathoms-- absolutely LOVING that sapphire bezel-- but still find it large-ish for a round watch at 45 mm.

Had BlancpaiN made the updated FF closer to 42mm, I might have already bought one from my buddy Al several years ago



Oh, and re: Calatravas, I'm pretty much a 5196J man LOL. Nice and vanilla, but my fave amongst the current offerings.

 

[mimo]

(Of course Subs are great, see frilly's post above...don't get it twisted).

I have big Sub love - including the current version and its phat case. I have little love for Sub-a-likes.

 

[Keith T]

Understood, m! Same page.

 

[no frills]

Me today:

 

[in stitches]



Calatravas do nothing for me.

Youre just not old enough. Give it time.

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Agree with Dino about the hobnail. Not that I think that I would run a real risk of smacking one of those lugs off, but the fact its soldered is to me workmanship below the price point.

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Frilly, why is that Red Sub on a leather dinner plate?