The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[RogerP]



Yes. My wife's is +3 seconds a day. Mine was +10 to 15 seconds per day but has settled down to +4. I assumed when purchasing there may be some initial issues, but I trust Ben to get them fixed. Best of luck.

I don't know exactly how mine is running - there is no second hand - but it is certainly within the minute over 3 or 4 consecutive days.

 

[no frills]

This little one in yellow gold today.

 

[Dino944]

It is not crazy out of the ballpark versus other ceramic all-WG models Rolex churns out - like the WG Submariner ("Smurf"), priced at $38,750.

However, as you noted, the whole principle of pricing an all-precious metal Rolex at those levels does seem "rather high." In the high $30s you're fighting against, say, a pre-owned Patek Grand Complications perpetual calendar in yellow gold. There are PLENTY of other options in that price range.

While the WG Pepsi GTM is expensive, its really not crazy or insane in terms of price. Beyond it being far better looking than that goofy WG Smurf Sub, just consider the gold content alone and the current price of gold. Or also consider this, an all YG Sub around 1994 was $17,250. You could get it discounted back then to about $13,000-ish. Well if we used the WG MSRP as a guide, the watches's price increased about 2.25 times the old MSRP. Gold has increased more than 2.25 times since 1994. In addition, consider a steel GTM Pepsi back in 1994 its MSRP, was $2,850 and could be purchased from an AD for $2,450. But consider a new steel GMT BLNR is about $8,900 and the steel model has gone up 3.12 times.

I agree that some may consider whether to get an all gold Rolex vs a pre-owned complicated watch from a brand known for having a finer finish and higher quality watch. However, there are people that would not consider pre-owned watches, and there are those people that want a watch made of precious metal and a precious metal bracelet. While the pricing is similar, I don't see the guy who wants a gold Sub or GMT buying a 3940 and their purposes and designs are quite different.

Yeah. I am definitely not saying that it is high vis-a-vis Rolex's other WG, YG, and even Platinum models. However, I think the cost is high when you put it up against other watches in the price range. In the same vein, I think I have similar qualms with the Platona. For the cost of a Platona, I could snag a Datograph.

I think ~$20-25k would be much more "fair." Even between 25-30k. $36k+, before tax though... that is Patek / VC / AL&S / AP territory para mi.

Not sure if you mean $20-25K before a discount (if one can find a cooperative AD). However, that is pricing from back in the late 1990s to early 2000s. In addition, gold is far more expensive now than it was 14+ years ago. So while you may feel the an all gold watch is worth that, I think that pricing is behind in the times and fails to take into account what gold costs today.

If you think these watches are expensive, consider the sheer weight of them and then consider the price of say a pair of Cartier tri-color knots or other high end gold cufflinks. Today they are about $5K, and people still buy them. There is a heck of a lot more gold in a gold Rolex on a gold bracelet than say 5-6 pairs of gold cufflinks. Yes, I know some of you guys aren't cufflinks guys...just saying the pricing of the all gold watches has to be on some level considered based on the gold content and not the merits of the watch or its movement. If someone doesn't want all gold they can buy an all steel black bezel GMT and save themselves about $30K +/-.

As I mentioned to Frills, I know guys that only want new in box , they have to be the first owner so, many preowned pieces that are the price of the all gold GMT are not watches they are going to consider. In addition, some VC Patrimony, or AL&S 1815s are less than an all gold Rolex, but the purpose is different so again it might not be something the would be gold Rolex owner will consider.

Yeah, it is. But it's one thing to wear a sports watch the price of a used car, and another to wear one the price of a new car. I guess one question is scratches - is it all white gold, or an alloy?

In watches, gold is 18Kt gold, which is 75% gold 25% alloy (many 18kt gold watches are marked 750, meaning its 750 parts per thousand gold, hence 75% gold 25 alloy. It would be too soft for daily wear if the gold content was higher. If something is 14Kt gold its a bit more durable but its only 58.5% gold and 41.5% alloy. Most platinum watches are 95% percent platinum (often marked PT 950), and 5% alloy, but platinum is far more durable.

A very short postcard from Geneva

What a fantastic trip! Looks like you guys had a blast! Thanks for sharing those drool worthy photos with us.

 

[in stitches]

that was a very enjoyable post, NS.

 

[Keith T]

+1, NS.

Great pics of the Traditionelle small seconds....one of the better shots I've seen of the rose gold version.

(EDIT: is that the rose? Looks much warmer vs. the platinum.)

What a gorgeous, simple dress watch!

Thanks for posting.

 

[Hayward]

In watches, gold is 18Kt gold, which is 75% gold 25% alloy (many 18kt gold watches are marked 750, meaning its 750 parts per thousand gold, hence 75% gold 25 alloy. It would be too soft for daily wear if the gold content was higher. If something is 14Kt gold its a bit more durable but its only 58.5% gold and 41.5% alloy. Most platinum watches are 95% percent platinum (often marked PT 950), and 5% alloy, but platinum is far more durable.

So we should wait for the $60K Platinum Coke GMT. With matte grey dial.

Sharing of TWAT knowledge: always elemental, never remedial!

 

[in stitches]



In watches, gold is 18Kt gold, which is 75% gold 25% alloy  (many 18kt gold watches are marked 750, meaning its 750 parts per thousand gold, hence 75% gold 25 alloy.  It would be too soft for daily wear if the gold content was higher.  If something is 14Kt gold its a bit more durable but its only 58.5% gold and 41.5% alloy.  Most platinum watches are 95% percent platinum (often marked PT 950), and 5% alloy, but platinum is far more durable.  

all correct, as usual!

most gold watches from the brands we discuss are 18k. they used to do 14k sometimes a while back, and i have seen vintage pieces stamped 14k for lots of brands, but 18k has become the standard. as far as i see, they really do look almost the same, thought you can feel the weight difference. i really think they do it for the prestige more than anything. 18k is just fancier than 14k, and obviously the extra gold content is part of that, and, of course, adds a lot to the price.

 

[no frills]

most gold watches from the brands we discuss are 18k. they used to do 14k sometimes a while back, and i have seen vintage pieces stamped 14k for lots of brands, but 18k has become the standard. as far as i see, they really do look almost the same, thought you can feel the weight difference. i really think they do it for the prestige more than anything. 18k is just fancier than 14k, and obviously the extra gold content is part of that, and, of course, adds a lot to the price.

Gets softer as you go up the 24K scale though! Dammit!

Someone needs to come up with virtually scratch proof gold with at least 75% content, mix in the super-hard material in the "other" 25%. I'd sign up for that.

Then Rolex can take adapt it for their precious metal watches, come up with some fancy UltraHard(On)Gold(TM) name and use that as part of their pitch!

 

[in stitches]

If it was simple, I am sure it would already exist.

Any alchemists here?

 

[tifosi]



If it was simple, I am sure it would already exist.

Any alchemists here?

No, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...

 

[Dino944]

all correct, as usual!

most gold watches from the brands we discuss are 18k. they used to do 14k sometimes a while back, and i have seen vintage pieces stamped 14k for lots of brands, but 18k has become the standard. as far as i see, they really do look almost the same, thought you can feel the weight difference. i really think they do it for the prestige more than anything. 18k is just fancier than 14k, and obviously the extra gold content is part of that, and, of course, adds a lot to the price.

The big three have all used 18Kt or Pt for what seems like forever, although on occasion I've seen I think on old pocket watch in 14. Rolex still used 14Kt on some watches up through about the mid 1980s. Hence all tutone Subs, GMTs, and DJs up until the mid 80s are 14Kt and steel, rather than 18kt and steel that we are more commonly accustomed to seeing. In addition, they offered an oyster perpetual in all 14kt including the bracelet, but I think that might have been a 34mm model, and at least until maybe the late 1970s, the Daytona was offered in all steel, 14Kt or 18Kt. I believe they may have done away with the 14Kt gold Daytonas by the late 70s or early 80s as all the 14Kt Daytonas I've seen seem to be from the early to mid 1970s.

I agree, its simply a more upmarket move to go from 14Kt to 18kt, and it allows them to charge more.

 

[Hayward]

Rolesium!

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]



Somehow the Lange 1 dial seemed really haphazard to me, but this one I found extremely impressive:

I've seen the Double Split in person - its movement is pretty impressive. It's really big though, a little tough to wear. Heavy as heck too.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]



all correct, as usual!

most gold watches from the brands we discuss are 18k. they used to do 14k sometimes a while back, and i have seen vintage pieces stamped 14k for lots of brands, but 18k has become the standard. as far as i see, they really do look almost the same, thought you can feel the weight difference. i really think they do it for the prestige more than anything. 18k is just fancier than 14k, and obviously the extra gold content is part of that, and, of course, adds a lot to the price.

One thing about 14k is that they tended to be the standard adopted by French and the majority of US casemakers. In the vintage era Swiss brands would ship over the movements to, for example, the US, and then have them cased up by case factories in the US to get around prohibitive taxes. So there was some variance, for better or worse, in many of these vintage pieces.

14k is actually quite a good composition - very hardy and practical. It's still favored for fountain pen nibs over 18k, but alas consumer preference and all for more "luxurious" materials.

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]



Gets softer as you go up the 24K scale though!  Dammit!

Someone needs to come up with virtually scratch proof gold with at least 75% content, mix in the super-hard material in the "other" 25%. I'd sign up for that.

Then Rolex can take adapt it for their precious metal watches, come up with some fancy UltraHard(On)Gold(TM) name and use that as part of their pitch! 

I think Lange has some sort of special super hard gold, can't remember what they call it (honey gold or something), but they only use it for their higher-end pieces.