The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[JermynStreet]

Here's a pair I just finished...I'm fairly happy with these--lady's black Milano Adelaides with burgundy kangaroo bead. 1-1/4" Cuban heel, 8 iron outsole, welted and stitched at 11spi.

The burgundy bead could have been a little less "in your face" prominent. On a classic English shoe the bead around the topline, for instance, would barely be visible. Very subtle. But again, on this shoe, it is an accent and these are lady's' shoes so it needed to be implemented as a design element.

Tight stitches, indeed, DW. Excellent work, and thank you for sharing.

 

[jerrybrowne]



Here's a pair I just finished...I'm fairly happy with these--lady's black Milano Adelaides with burgundy kangaroo bead. 1-1/4" Cuban heel, 8 iron outsole, welted and stitched at 11spi.

The burgundy bead could have been a little less "in your face" prominent. On a classic English shoe the bead around the topline, for instance, would barely be visible. Very subtle. But again, on this shoe, it is an accent and these are lady's' shoes so it needed to be implemented as a design element.

Looking good!

 

[chogall]



Here's a pair I just finished...I'm fairly happy with these--lady's black Milano Adelaides with burgundy kangaroo bead. 1-1/4" Cuban heel, 8 iron outsole, welted and stitched at 11spi.

The burgundy bead could have been a little less "in your face" prominent. On a classic English shoe the bead around the topline, for instance, would barely be visible. Very subtle. But again, on this shoe, it is an accent and these are lady's' shoes so it needed to be implemented as a design element.

Are the waist pegged or blind welted?

I know Vass pegs their lady's heels and western boots pegs the heels. My guess is this pair pegged but just wanted to make sure.

My conjecture is that pegged waist gives better waist support in the case of high heels, which could put too much stress on blind welts or even square waists. Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[DWFII]



Are the waist pegged or blind welted?

I know Vass pegs their lady's heels and western boots pegs the heels. My guess is this pair pegged but just wanted to make sure.

My conjecture is that pegged waist gives better waist support in the case of high heels, which could put too much stress on blind welts or even square waists. Please correct me if I am wrong.

The heels are pegged, the waist is blind welted.

I don't think that in the case of a woman's shoe...which will never be in the stirrup...pegs bring much to the table. I think the best reason for using them in a shoe such as this is that the thinner outsole is hard to channel, easier to peg.

As long as there is a decent shank support in the shoe and the surrounding construction is solid, there is no more stress on the waist of a high heel shoe than there is on the waist of a low heeled shoe.

--

 

[Winot]



New Cleverleys - calf and suede:

(Edited to fix upload problem)

 

[DWFII]



Tight stitches, indeed, DW. Excellent work, and thank you for sharing.

Thanks. Not a lot of people take the spi into consideration but it has always been a benchmark of excellence in shoemaking...esp. on the welt.

 

[SoGent]

Thanks. Not a lot of people take the spi into consideration but it has always been a benchmark of excellence in shoemaking...esp. on the welt.

oh yes we do

 

[DWFII]



   oh yes we do

Austro-Hungarian notwithstanding

 

[chogall]



The heels are pegged, the waist is blind welted.

I don't think that in the case of a woman's shoe...which will never be in the stirrup...pegs bring much to the table. I think the best reason for using them in a shoe such as this is that the thinner outsole is hard to channel, easier to peg.

As long as there is a decent shank support in the shoe and the surrounding construction is solid, there is no more stress on the waist of a high heel shoe than there is on the waist of a low heeled shoe.

--

Interesting.

Is it possible to re-welt a blind welted pair of shoes to regular welted?

 

[DWFII]



Interesting.

Is it possible to re-welt a blind welted pair of shoes to regular welted?

I suspect the answer might depend on what you mean when you say "blind welt". As I understand it, a blind welt simply refers to a welt, often thinned, that is well inset under the edge of the insole. This would also move the inseam back under the waist as well. There was a link once upon a time that showed Anthony Delos channeling an insole and the holdfast in the waist had to have been close to a half inch in from the edge of the insole.

The welt is usually trimmed a little narrower and closer to the stitching as well simply because it is not meant to be seen.

You might be able to rewelt and not trim so closely.

Or...more likely...you would have to replace the insole and re-channel it before rewelting.

 

[bengal-stripe]



Is it possible to re-welt a blind welted pair of shoes to regular welted?

Here is Madame Posh's explanation (the English translation back then, at Madame's behest, was done by yours truly )

http://newsaboutshoes.de/showthread.php?t=746

Notice how the holdfast is cut further away from the feather-edge than for conventional welting. If you want to change the blind welting to ordinary welting, you might get away with re-welting using a wider strip than standard. Otherwise, as DWF has suggested, you will have to remake the entire bottom work and prepare a new insole. Hardly an exercise to be done on a whim or on the cheap.

Just get a new upper made and start from scratch.

 

[bengal-stripe]

Here is Marcell's version. He calls it (for reasons unknown) a "German welt":

http://shoesandcraft.com/?s=german+welt

 

[chogall]

oh yes, I have read Posh's explanation. Was just wondering if its technically possible without changing the insole.

 

[Michael Ay329]

Clifford Roberts used my newer Springline bespoke last. Fit is excellent as I found my previous last did not fit as well on this slip on design.

 

[ThinkDerm]

Gorgeous.