The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Shirtmaven]

When do people decide whether or not a dress shirt is worth tailoring?

The sleeve width is fine. They look too long, but they will shrink in the wash.
Try the darts first.

 

[charles111]

If @charles111 's collar is buttoned in all the shots, I have doubts as to whether the collar fits.

Shirts I wear with a sport or suit coat - I worry mightily about sleeve length, and collar expression, but the body of the shirt isn't something too stressful for me. Kamakura's NY slim fit isn't as slim as I need, but I haven't bothered to have the darts re-darted. This is a roundabout way of stating that I don't tailor shirts.

I will take a pic of the neck when I get back home. I did the 1-2 finger check.

Do you worry about sleeve width when wearing the shirt with suit? I have had problems with shirt sleeves pulling up and not going back down in suit wear

 

[circumspice]

If the sleeves are the right length and barrel cuff, I tend to not have problems.

I have basically sworn off French cuffs (as I have come to understand my style, I am rarely in suits, and I just have no need for FC), but many off the rack FC shirts have very wide cuffs, so I can imagine that can be a problem

I think jacket armhole is also a variable - if your jackets have low armholes, the jacket arms have more restricted mobility than the shirt does, and that may allow the shirt sleeve to stay where it belongs while the jacket sleeve does not - but then the jacket sleeve may not return to where it belongs

 

[Betelgeuse]

Just picked up the trousers from the tailor, well just one, the other needed a fix in the cuff, it was a bit messy.

I think it looks nice. The tailor just made the cuffs and let the seat out a bit. So, this is what I guess I still need:

1) Fix the inseam lenght. Too large for my taste.
2) Don't know if the seat should be let out a bit more

What do you think? Will try to get better pics.

Spoiler: Fit Pics

 

[charles111]

If the sleeves are the right length and barrel cuff, I tend to not have problems.

I have basically sworn off French cuffs (as I have come to understand my style, I am rarely in suits, and I just have no need for FC), but many off the rack FC shirts have very wide cuffs, so I can imagine that can be a problem

I think jacket armhole is also a variable - if your jackets have low armholes, the jacket arms have more restricted mobility than the shirt does, and that may allow the shirt sleeve to stay where it belongs while the jacket sleeve does not - but then the jacket sleeve may not return to where it belongs

Just got the neck pics. Too big?

 

[Michell]

This shirt for the client, was made according to his sample.
But i think there is still something needed to improve.
Appreciated for your valuable comments

Made in Shanghai

 

[charles111]

I received my Hugo suit jacket from Macy's. Macy's screwed me over so badly that they said they'll pay for my tailoring. Basically, their website description said the item was an extra slim fit, when they had marked it wrong and it was actually a regular fit. Prior to making the order, I had called a couple of times to confirm that the online description is accurate, when really it wasn't. I was pretty pissed when I called them after receiving the suit jacket, and they offered to pay for the tailoring if I choose to keep the jacket.

Shoulders fit pretty well, but the waist on the suit jacket is huge.
I'm like a size 28" waist, and the jacket I received would probably fit someone with a size 34-36" waist. Could this jacket, as I describe it, be tailored down this much in the waist area?

 

[SartodiNapoli]

H

Happy New Year!

I've just had 3 shirts made by 3 different bespoke tailors, and would really appreciate your comments and criticisms.

Couple notes: I'm on vacation and don't have proper pants to try these shirts with, so the closest thing I've got are these low-rise jeans in black (sorry!). Also, none of the shirts have been washed and ironed yet, but I figured I'll upload these now instead of waiting another 11 days (long vacation).

View attachment 900331 View attachment 900332 View attachment 900333 View attachment 900334 View attachment 900335 View attachment 900336 View attachment 900337 View attachment 900338 View attachment 900339

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

Hello,

It has a lot of tailoring issues, even the overall look is ok for what I am used to see on the forum...

The back is simply poor, he has put darts to adjust it, but leaves a lot of bags of fabric all around.

The sleeves are twisted: out of pitch is called.

The front has bags on the sides and diagonal lines, due to bad shoulder height correction.

Depending on how much you paid for it.

With a jacket and tie on can be ok, since the defects are hidden.

 

[charles111]

Is there something wrong with the suit shoulders on this jacket? In the first jacket, in the upper arms, the sleeves flares outward a little bit. I've noticed this a lot on a lot of jackets I try on, but have no clue what causes this. Any ideas? This is a 40, and it's really big everywhere, except the shoulders (?). Think a 38 might be better on me for the shoulders?

 

[ray8]

H


Hello,

It has a lot of tailoring issues, even the overall look is ok for what I am used to see on the forum...

The back is simply poor, he has put darts to adjust it, but leaves a lot of bags of fabric all around.

The sleeves are twisted: out of pitch is called.

The front has bags on the sides and diagonal lines, due to bad shoulder height correction.

Depending on how much you paid for it.

With a jacket and tie on can be ok, since the defects are hidden.

Thanks -

The sleeves twisting is a result of me positioning the cuffs where the shirt cuffs had been folded, rather than where they would sit naturally (shirts hadn't been washed and ironed when I took the pics).

I have noticed the extra fabric in the areas you've pointed out though.

Also, every shirt fit post I come across focuses exclusively on the front and side profile. I've always been curious what the back of a perfectly made shirt should look like and have come up against a bit of a blank on this forum and on the internet in general. Anyone care to offer a few images?

 

[hentaisan]

I'm wondering how I can most effectively determine the front and back rise on my trousers (position of the fork, with respect to front/back balance).

I have one pair that's 9.75" front 15.5" back, and another that is 11" in the front and 15" in the back. Both trousers sit at the same position on the hip (I'm guessing this won't change), but are obviously different in the crotch/seat, and neither are optimal. My crotch length (measured with briefs on) is 24.5".

What are some techniques I can use to determine front/back rise?

 

[Purplelabel]

I’ve got to wonder, why don’t people take pictures of their tailoring needs whilst wearing the appropriate garments? Need alteration advice on a jacket? Wear a shirt underneath so we can see more. Trousers? Wear the shoes you’ll be wearing with said trousers etc.

It’ll make it easier.

 

[knittieguy]

Recently had this made by a local tailor. Not terrible, but there's something not right about it. Is the button stance too high? Anything the tailor can fix on this one (as opposed to on a future order, should there be one)? I've gained a few pounds since I was first measured, which may have something to do with it.

Not asking about the pants, and don't pay attention to the sleeves. I'd just gotten home so they're a bit wrinkled in the pic, and I'm turned slightly which makes them look uneven. They're normally fine. Just asking about the rest of the jacket.

Thanks

View attachment 901702

Any thoughts?

 

[Betelgeuse]

Picked up this trousers from the tailor, the light brown I think the fit is quite nice for OTR but the gray one, that is suppossed to be the same measurement and pattern... doesn't look that right. In the gray one they did have to take in the waist, the pocket flare was a bit more noticeable so they let out the seat (or at least that's what they told me) but the back doesn't look good. Any thoughts?

Light brown

Light gray

 

[richhomiequalm]

General advice on improving fit? I have a proportionally tiny waist and mild bowlegs so getting pants to drape nicely has been a struggle.