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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. richhomiequalm

    richhomiequalm New Member

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    General advice on improving fit? I have a proportionally tiny waist and mild bowlegs so getting pants to drape nicely has been a struggle.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  2. jandersson

    jandersson Well-Known Member

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    @richhomiequalm - Due to your bow-legs the outseams are hanging away from your ankles. Ask your tailor to compensate for this. Here's an example from Dylan & Son.
     


  3. buddyfuzz

    buddyfuzz Member

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    Any advice regarding this bunching on a Luxire trial order? I showed it to a local made to measure person who believes this can be helped by raising Shoulder Slope (1/2" on my right, 1/4" on my left), however when I e-mailed the photo to Luxire, they said it was nothing to do with shoulder slope and that it was due to the armhole being too tight. I've put in a picture with my arms up as well.

    I'm not sure what to do as I feel the person who I asked (who albeit isn't a bespoke shirtmaker, but has great experience in this) and Luxire (who I believe also know a lot about this) have conflicting opinions.

    Thanks!

    PS. Luxire One Piece Collar is beautiful!


    upload_2018-1-10_13-18-45.png

    upload_2018-1-10_13-22-5.png
     


  4. knittieguy

    knittieguy Distinguished Member

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    I'm not a tailor but it looks like they didn't let out the seat quite as much on the grey ones. Even so, they both look pretty good to me. Except that the leg length seems quite short. If you weren't wearing boots you'd probably see your socks.
     


  5. dalevy

    dalevy Distinguished Member

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    Haven't been here in a while. Those little horizontal divots under my arm on the back panels, is there a way to remove them and instead have a nicer more vertical fold more aligned with the shoulder seam? Am I asking for fabric to be let out at a particular seam and from which side? Tailors only please, no "I'm not a tailor but"

    For reference, there was more material there causing more divot, so I had the tailor remove the back of the sleeve and take it in, but I cannot remember whether he took in material from the sleeve side or the body side.

    Is the issue completely different? Is the back panel misaligned with the side panel?

    In the first picture I guess I am leaning over more and in the second picture I am standing up straight. It's hard to pose in a natural posture, it's probably somewhere in between. The horizontal divots appear more when I'm leaning over.


    IMG_2854.JPG
    IMG_2853.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018


  6. bigbrother690

    bigbrother690 Member

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    Hey guys, just picked up an end-of-season Zara coat I really like. It's virtually a perfect fit, with one exception- the shoulder seam tends to "gargoyle wing" a bit- sticks up in a point:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I love this coat and would really like to keep it, but I need to find some way to mitigate this. I'm afraid a tailor will cost an arm and a leg to reconstruct it.

    A) Is there any trick to soften this you guys know of? Maybe something with an iron, etc?

    B) Is it something you think will "sink" or improve over time?

    Much appreciated!
     


  7. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you notice how the buttons are pulling at the chest. Add an 1" to the chest. That will open up the armhole.
     


  8. buddyfuzz

    buddyfuzz Member

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    Thanks for this. I don't remember it being tight in the chest, and I wonder if it's just the sloppy ironing (or lack thereof) that's giving it the appearance of pulling there (the buttoning/placket area being wavy).

    Do you think that the bunching I marked out in the red circles is nothing to do with shoulder slope then?

    Many thanks!
     


  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    You have square shoulders with a right low
    You need more room in the chest.
    You can't have a shirt with out some fullness there. Otherwise you won't be able to move
     


  10. buddyfuzz

    buddyfuzz Member

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    Ok, Thanks! So I'll ask them to add 1 inch to the chest. Should I add another bit to the armhole as well, or do you think that 1 inch added to the chest would give enough relief there if I currently find the armhole a tiny bit tight? Also, just so I'm clear, are you of the opinion that having that added to the chest means I won't have to ask for anything else to compensate for the square shoulders, such a slope adjustment?

    Sorry, just trying to get a clear understanding of exactly what I should be going for!

    Thanks
     


  11. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    this is what is wrong with ordering shirts over the internet..
    you have no experience in making shirts or fitting.

    first I know how I adjust shirts for corrections.
    I do not know how Luxare makes their adjustments.
    if i saw this photo, I would automatically increase the chest and drop the armhole.


    I would not attempt to do your job.
     


  12. LLEE

    LLEE Member

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    *edit - wrong thread for my question :)*
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2018 at 9:00 AM


  13. hamerhand

    hamerhand Member

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    Just a quick (probably dumb) question from a newcomer:

    How much should be added to hip/thigh(/knee?) measurements when adding a single pleat?
     


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