The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[TweedyProf]

Gents, some of you might be interested in this new curated thread

http://www.styleforum.net/t/517882/ten-ties-five-jackets-10-5-thread

Emptym, who started this thread, will be one of the first set of posters.

 

[untchbleal]

I have these chinos, I have to cuff them in order to avoid breaking. I had them tapered already. I'm also thinking about buying another pair (blue) but this time 2 inches longer and getting a 2 inch cuff with a tapered leg. What do you guys think?

 

[Baked Potato]

Is it possible to alter a shirt in the chest only? I've found one that fits me perfectly, except for the chest area.

 

[Ttailor]



Good evening, I could really use some help here! I've done several online MTM orders, but can never nail down the fit. This shirt is indicative of the problems I have. The major issue is the diagonal crease starting at my peck and radiating down toward my pants - circled in red in the first photo. Also notice how the silhouette is somewhat hourglass shaped, coming in mid torso, then out at my waistline. The secondary issue is the excess fabric in the back near my armpits and lower torso (second photo). The shirt is as tight as I want in the chest, so I'm not sure where the extra fabric in the back is coming from. Yoke width too wide maybe? Also noticing the shirt is a bit snug in the seat - could that be a problem? Would darts help? I'm not looking for a skin tight shirt, just clean lines. I appreciate any insight. My body measurements in case it's helpful: height - 6'1" weight - 180 chest - 41.5" upper waist (narrowest part of torso) - 32" lower waist (thickest part of torso, just below navel) - 34" seat (fullest part of ass) - 39"

A number of thoughts Your actual chest measurement. How accurate is it? Most people measure incorrectly, letting the tape drop at the back. So your actual chest measure may be more than what you think, and therefore not enough ease in the shirt. Shirts need a certain amount of ease because of their inherent patterning and fit deficiencies. You are fuller in the front than the back. The drag lines show that your pecs pull the fabric forward.The back width could be reduced and redistributed between the front and the armhole. The shoulder slope looks wrong for you as does the armhole. Pulling from the shoulder looks like this shirt is too sloped in the shoulder. The depth of the armhole is not helping here, it is crammed too high into your armpit. Depth of armhole should be calculated to take into account your height, and that looks like it has not happened. You have basically suppressed the waist too much. Back darts would be better so all the reduction does not happen just at the side seams which is what is happening now. The closer the garment gets to the body (less ease) the more it needs to be shaped to the body, but shirts have few areas to accomodate that kind of fit without a major rethink and change to the basic shirt pattern. Online mtm is asking customers to act as experienced tailors or patternmakers in making choices, which are by default uneducated guesses.

 

[MDisciple87]

Please excuse both the lighting and the fact that I don't have a picture from the back. This is a recent suit I got from Knot Standard and I don't know but I feel like a bit like an old man in it vs. it actually elongating me and being trim, etc.


I really hope I'm just imagining things but I think perhaps the waist and/or chest could be take in a bit more. Thoughts?

P.S. Ignore the shirt not showing under the left sleeve, it's due to the watch.

Thank you for all your help in advance and if this is insufficient I'll gladly take more pics and resubmit.

 

[jandersson]

Below are the results of my third Luxire iteration. Second iteration can be found here.

My main shirt fit issue is the fold at my neck. It continues all around the collar and runs down the front of my chest. I believe it might be caused by excessively sloping shirt shoulders?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zfxhgy2ahsp1iym/neckFold.jpg?dl=0
(The shirt was supposed to have a regular turn down button down collar, but instead I got this cut away hidden button down collar.)

Some folds around the scye-seam is hard to avoid, but I find these folds excessive. I believe the cause might be a too curved scye-seam? A narrower yoke width might also help?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sj8b9ts4mkjlzw6/shirt.jpg?dl=0

My biggest issue with the fit of the pants is the folds above the back of my knees. If I rotate my pelvic forwards, the back of the pants are lifted and the folds straightened out. Maybe it can be fixed by shifting the back of the pants upwards?

The seat still has a slight wedgie. The waist is too small which makes it sit too high on my hips. A larger waist should sit a bit lower, thus eliminating the wedgie and making the inseam slightly longer.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dfjrnaxa0rsjxa4/pants.jpg?dl=0

Is my analysis above correct? Any other alterations I should consider to improve the fit further? @Ttailor ? @Shirtmaven ?

 

[GuP]

Can the experts comment on which from below fits best and how to further improve that fit? Much appreciated.



38R Havana

Spoiler

40R Hudson

Spoiler

38R Hudson

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

[/quote]

 

[nostalgiaultra]

Slightly subjective sleeve length question. Would you consider going shorter on these sleeves? maybe a cm or .25"?

thanks

 

[Brick]

I was told to come here for more opinions on this coat. A couple people said this is too long. What do you guys think?





And just for contrast, here's two of the jacket shortened (using paperclips) by about 1/2 inch.

 

[Ttailor]



I was told to come here for more opinions on this coat. A couple people said this is too long. What do you guys think? And just for contrast, here's two of the jacket shortened (using paperclips) by about 1/2 inch.

Yes it does look a bit long, better in the second set of photos.

 

[Ttailor]



Slightly subjective sleeve length question. Would you consider going shorter on these sleeves? maybe a cm or .25"? thanks

Don't think so. You don,t want the cuff running up your arm when you bend.

 

[Ttailor]



Can the experts comment on which from below fits best and how to further improve that fit? Much appreciated.

40R Hudson

Neither of the 38's. They are too small, bowed in the chest.
All of them look very narrow through the hips. When the vents are opened they are going to splay. But the 40 looks overall a better size compared to the 38.

 

[Ttailor]



Below are the results of my third Luxire iteration. Second iteration can be found here.

I'm sorry but as you are on your third try, I think that whatever changes you have asked by the company may be best resolved by them as they have the history of the process and what they have done to fix it, (or not). Best to send them photos and see what they say, if you haven't already, rather than telling them wht to do.

Please read other responses regarding shirts. Shirts are not meant engineered to fit as tightly and as leanly as people attempt to get.
With your body type, you would be best with darts in the back less suppression at the sides, more room in the chest.

 

[Brick]

Any other thoughts? For some reason, I feel like the longer version somehow slims me, while I look stockier in the shortened jacket.

Is the jacket unacceptably long by any standard, or just long by today's shorter jacket trend? I also think I have shortish arms, in case people are judging solely by where my hand rests.

 

[EssenceofTao]

Hey guys, ordered a test shirt from Luxire, here are the results. I think I will add an inch to the chest and half an inch to the waist, both are pulling. The other points I'd love some advice on are:
1) should I take in some fabric in the forearm/lower sleeve?
2) is the additional fabric at the back of the shoulder something I should be worried about? (see the third picture)