The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Ttailor]



@teknique22
 I have the same problem and I'm thinking it might be due to a too wide yoke in combination with a narrow waist. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can
chime in:
@Shirtmaven
?
@Ttailor
?

@ballmouse
 Could you please elaborate how a larger sleeve width would help? I'm thinking a wider sleeve would likely mean a larger arm hole and an even worse flying squirrel syndrome?

More length in underarm/sleeve seam. Translates to a shallower sleevehead and therefore a wider sleeve which doesn't look as clean in a shirt that is overfitted, as many are trying to achieve.
Problem seems to be shirtmakers retaining traditional shirt pattern forms but customers changing the fit parameters. There is a limit to how fitted a trad shirt pattern can be made, before it creates other issues.

 

[teknique22]



More length in underarm/sleeve seam. Translates to a shallower sleevehead and therefore a wider sleeve which doesn't look as clean in a shirt that is overfitted, as many are trying to achieve.
Problem seems to be shirtmakers retaining traditional shirt pattern forms but customers changing the fit parameters. There is a limit to how fitted a trad shirt pattern can be made, before it creates other issues.

Not sure I'm following. Just trying to figure out a solution here. The issue persists with shirts that clearly aren't as fitted as well, and I'm still unsure of how to correct it. There really hasn't been much help in this thread in terms of how to actually fix this as I'd have hoped

 

[Ttailor]



Not sure I'm following. Just trying to figure out a solution here. The issue persists with shirts that clearly aren't as fitted as well, and I'm still unsure of how to correct it. There really hasn't been much help in this thread in terms of how to actually fix this as I'd have hoped

Are you making shirts? manufacturers need to figure it out, if you have no experience as a patternmaker, then why would they listen to third hand solutions from a customer?
i don't have time to school you or some commercial enterprise in the finer technical points of pattern making.
Sorry, just how it is.
Find another brand that you like , which gives you the fit you are after.

 

[Shirtmaven]

way too much taper from chest to waist.

ease back on the waist and then add darts should help

 

[pi34]

Probably not totally related, but, perhaps ya'll can help.

Looking to purchase a dress form to help sell things here and on ebay. Don't really have room or a desire for different sized mannequins. Any recommendation on what size I should buy? I don't really bother buying anything smaller than a 38/48.

 

[Shirtmaven]



Probably not totally related, but, perhaps ya'll can help.

Looking to purchase a dress form to help sell things here and on ebay.  Don't really have room or a desire for different sized mannequins.  Any recommendation on what size I should buy?  I don't really bother buying anything smaller than a 38/48.

ebay?
if you are in NYC, i have an extra one.

 

[pi34]

ebay?
if you are in NYC, i have an extra one.

I was planning on eBay, but I wasn't sure if there is a specific bust size I should use if I am only going to bother having one mannequin.

This was the one I was considering...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-38-32-Ma...459724?hash=item2ed229f14c:g:PBcAAMXQDnpTbTrc

...or...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/38-33-39-TO...hash=item41709bf3cf:m:mPSczDgWuQku6gSYJPKLUcA

I appreciate that...I'm currently on LI, but it is probably not the easiest thing to carry around. I may pop in at some point when I lose a little weight to try some shirts...looked through your instagram and the liberty print flower ones are great.

 

[Elbstrand]

Hello,

I have a problem with the fitting of nearly all of my trousers, MTM and RTW. Most of my trousers have to lift up in the back (reduced back rise) to get a straight silhouette at the backside of my trousers. But after done this, I have a fold at each leg at the front of my trousers - under my knee at the middle of my shin. (Similar to the fourth picture of the first post in this thread.http://cdn.styleforum.net/b/ba/ba63c9ab_IMGP4632.jpeg) And it is independent of the length of the trousers or the ankle opening – I tried 20.0 cm to 23.5cm. I think, the reason is too much fabric at the front due to the lift up at the back. (Like a concertina.)

Does anyone know, what I can do or what instructions should I to give to my tailor or the MTM-shop-assistants?

 

[Mimosa]

Recent Samuelsohn MTM sport coat. The short length is intentional. I'd like opinions on fit and alterations to improve if possible. Best regards. Note. 5'4". About 135 lbs.

 

[masaccio]

Front/back balance looks off.

Back appears to be about 1" shorter than the front, which further accentuates the too short aspect of the coat.

 

[stocken]

Hi,
3rd Luxire order, pants in Cavallry Twill and shirt in an oxford cloth. The pants hem width was increased with about 2 inches circumference from the last pair.
For the next pair of trousers I would add some cloth for the front pleat so it does not flare open as easily.
Shirt; fairly happy. Maybe it is to fitted. Also thinking about increasing sleave length with 1" for comfort.
Comments would be really appreciated

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Too tight in the seat, maybe not fixable. The legs could be let out a bit to distract from that.

 

[Melchiades]

Any tips on how to get rid of the bunching of the materials here? (or any other tips for that matter)

 

[Limniscate]



Recent Samuelsohn MTM sport coat. The short length is intentional. I'd like opinions on fit and alterations to improve if possible. Best regards. Note. 5'4". About 135 lbs.

Button stance is a little too high imho, and the quarters are too open. I don't like showing belt.

 

[kjm84]

Good evening,

I could really use some help here! I've done several online MTM orders, but can never nail down the fit. This shirt is indicative of the problems I have. The major issue is the diagonal crease starting at my peck and radiating down toward my pants - circled in red in the first photo. Also notice how the silhouette is somewhat hourglass shaped, coming in mid torso, then out at my waistline. The secondary issue is the excess fabric in the back near my armpits and lower torso (second photo). The shirt is as tight as I want in the chest, so I'm not sure where the extra fabric in the back is coming from. Yoke width too wide maybe? Also noticing the shirt is a bit snug in the seat - could that be a problem? Would darts help? I'm not looking for a skin tight shirt, just clean lines. I appreciate any insight.

My body measurements in case it's helpful:
height - 6'1"
weight - 180
chest - 41.5"
upper waist (narrowest part of torso) - 32"
lower waist (thickest part of torso, just below navel) - 34"
seat (fullest part of ass) - 39"